Ecuador – Maldo Travels

Cunuyacu – Waterfall and Hot Spring

Jean Maldonado — Wed, 06 Jan 2021 08:47:00 +0000

Located on the foothills of the volcanic twin mountains Los Ilinizas, the waterfall and hot spring of Cunuyacu are about a 2-hour drive away from Quito. These destinations are less frequented by tourists and on an off-the-beaten-path route. To get there, you first need to get to the Ecological Reserve which can be accessed via a dirt road in San Juan de Pastocalle after coming off the Panamericana highway. There is a large tourist sign at the entrance of the dirt road so it should be easy to spot. It had rained the day before so the road was quite muddy. We went in an SUV-type vehicle and managed to get through most of the way without any issues. There was just one part where there was quite a large rock where the passengers had to get off for the car to make it up.

We made it to a car park at around 7.30 AM, and although we could proceed further, we decided to leave the cars there since the road wasn’t getting any better. We then started hiking up, and after a couple of minutes, we came across the entrance that had a large welcome sign. The road at this point was cordoned off to block vehicles access. There was also a house here and I had read up that there was someone who lives in the area that provides transportation. However, it was quite early and no one seemed to be in, so we went across the barrier and continued hiking up. From this point, the dirt road got much worse with large holes and rocks. Only a 4×4 vehicle would be able to make it up, but for a hike the road is fine. It took us about an hour to reach a viewpoint which was also the start of the trail.

First, the trail descends to the river where there is a small wooden footbridge. It was quite muddy so take care when going down the trail as some parts are very slippery. After crossing the bridge, the trail splits with one route leading to the waterfall and the other going to the hot spring. The trail has signposts along the way so you won’t get lost. We first followed signs for the waterfall and we got there in about 10 minutes. The waterfall itself isn’t too big, but the highlight is its red/orange color. The color is due to the rocks that have been tinted red by volcanic minerals. The color of the water itself is clear and it doesn’t give off a bad odor that volcanic minerals tend to produce. We were able to get close to the waterfall which made for some great pictures. To get close to the waterfall you have to cross the stream which has some slippery rocks. Water shoes or wellies would be great but not necessary. We were the only ones there and we didn’t run into any other groups at this time. We spent about 20 minutes taking pictures here before continuing to the hot spring.

We first turned back and walked along the trail to return to the footbridge. Then we followed the other route that leads up to the hot spring. Along the trail, we passed through a mystical forest of Polylepis trees. In Ecuador, this tree is nicknamed the ‘Paper Tree’ due to its appearance of the bark peeling off like layers of paper. This trail is a little longer and we reached the hot spring in about 20 minutes. Once again, we were the only group there and had the place to ourselves. The hot spring is a small natural pool where they’ve stacked some sandbags to contain more water. The water temperature itself is warm, not hot, but it’s more refreshing after the hike. You can smell the minerals here, but it is not off-putting. The highlight is the view since the pool is like a balcony on the mountainside looking over the landscape. The weather wasn’t great so we didn’t get to see much of the neighboring mountains, but it was still a great place to relax. We stayed here for about an hour before it started to rain, so we started heading back before a downpour.

It was a wonderful experience abundant in nature and great for a day trip from the capital city. The hike itself was fairly easy and only tiring due to being at an altitude of over 4000 meters. If you go later in the day, the transportation service would save you the 1-hour initial hike. It was also great to have the place to ourselves without having to deal with tourist crowds.

Mindo – Nature and Adventure

Jean Maldonado — Sat, 02 Jan 2021 23:04:00 +0000

Located only 2 hours away from Quito, this is a popular holiday spot for residents of the capital. We drove there but you can take a bus as well. The town is small but filled with tour agencies and restaurants. I’ve been on several occasions and we normally stop at a tour agency on the main road to look for activities. There are many things to do and here are some of the activities I’ve done in my last couple of visits.

Zip-lining/Canopy

There are many different places to do zip-lining in the mountain cloud rainforest terrain. You can buy the tours in the town and they normally do bundles with other activities. However, you can also go directly to the zip-lining locations which will probably be cheaper. From the town center, it takes about 15 minutes to get to the zip-lining location. As you leave the town, the route turns to narrow winding dirt roads. There was plenty of parking available at the site. The staff helped us put our gear on securely and we then set out with 2 guides. It took about an hour to go through a circuit of 10 zip-lines and it was great fun.

Whitewater Tubing

This is a more adrenaline-inducing activity as the current of the river is very strong. The tour agency provided life jackets and helmets which we put on before heading out. They also told us to put on swimsuits or clothes that we didn’t mind getting wet, since we were guaranteed to get soaked. We then hopped on a pickup truck to the riverside location for the tubing activity. It took about 20 minutes to get there and they also took the buoys in other pickup trucks. The guide then gave us a safety briefing and since we were a large group, they divided us up into 2 groups. The tubes are about 6 tubes tied together so it’s 6 people each plus the guide. Unlike rafting where you have to row, your only job in the tubing activity is to hold onto the ropes. The guide will then do the rest of the work navigating which is quite amazing to watch. You’ll see them jump around the tubes and the river to navigate and dislodge the tubes when they get stuck. It takes about 20 minutes to go down the river and everyone gets completely soaked. At the destination location of the river, the pickup truck was waiting for us to take us back. It’s only a 5-minute drive back from this part of the river.

Waterfall Rappelling

For this activity, we hopped on the pickup trucks to go into the rainforest. The waterfall is deep inside the rainforest and it took us about 30-40 minutes to get there. We first arrive at a lodge where we waited for a guide to come back with the previous group. We then hiked up the rainforest for about 15 minutes to reach the waterfall. When we got there, there were a couple of people from another group rappelling down the waterfall. We arrived at the base of the waterfall and could see it was quite high, maybe around 15-20 meters. There wasn’t much water coming down though, which makes it suitable for rappelling. Once the previous group had come finished coming down, the guides put the harnesses on us before hiking up to the top of the waterfall. It’s a short 5-minute hike up and then the guide gave us instructions on how to rappel down. Initially, it’s a little scary as you have to lean back, but once you get a hang of the technique you lose the fear. It takes about 5-10 minutes to rappel down, depending on how quickly you go. The guide rappelled down in 10 seconds which was insane.

There are many other activities which include a trail to visit waterfalls, renting buggies, visiting a butterfly sanctuary, and lots more. You can also just head to the river. The current is a little strong, but some parts are quite shallow so you could sit on some rocks and get a hydro-massage.

Otavalo & Peguche – Culture & Nature

Jean Maldonado — Sat, 19 Dec 2020 21:09:00 +0000

The popular tourist town of Otavalo is only a 2-hour drive away from Quito. There is also regular public transport since it is a well-traveled route with buses leaving from the North Terminal of Carcelén. It’s a nice scenic drive along the winding Andean mountains; especially when passing the lake at San Pablo which lies next to the great volcano Imbabura.

We arrived at the Parque Simon Bolivar which is a small central square. There are several paid parking lots in the area and after parking our car, we walked to the crafts market. The people of Otavalo are primarily indigenous and have integrated with modern society. You’ll see lots of people walking around in their traditional clothes, and the main attraction in the town is the crafts market. The crafts market is only a couple of blocks from the park where we left our car, and there are many crafts stalls on the sidewalks on the way. Some roads are also closed to vehicle traffic so it’s safer to walk to the market. The busiest days are the weekends when the majority of the vendors open their stalls. The market is still open on weekdays though so it’s still worth a visit. You’ll find many different products for sale and Otavalo is well known for its high-quality textiles; especially the ponchos. There are also many restaurants in the area to get a taste of some of the region’s cuisine.

After going for a stroll around the market, you can head to a nearby waterfall at Peguche. It’s only a 10-minute drive from the market and there’s a car park on-site. Public transport is also available and departs from the park. Another option is to hail a taxi from anywhere in town which will cost around 2 USD¹ each way. The final option is the 40-minute walk since it’s not too far and also a nice walk through the town. Between the car park and the entrance, there are a couple of shops and stalls selling snacks, drinks, and souvenirs. There is also an Incan solar calendar structure which is accessible for free.

The entry ticket for the waterfall costs only 0.50 USD for access to the trails and spaces along the way. It’s then a short 10-15 minute walk along the trail which is very well maintained. The surrounding area is very green like a rainforest which has lots of different paths. There are toilet facilities and we also passed a camping area. Further down the trail, there was a path that headed toward a natural pool. There were also small bridges that crossed the river to an area with some huts. It looked like these huts were restaurants since they were playing music, but they also looked like lodging. The trail splits at one point, with one path going to the lower part of the waterfall and the other path going up to a viewpoint. We first went to the lower part of the waterfall and crossed a wooden bridge to get there. The waterfall isn’t very high, but the water comes crashing down with enough force to create a gust of mist. You can get very close to the waterfall, but be prepared to get very wet. I managed to climb up on one of the large boulders to get a picture. The water is a little cold, but bearable with the hot weather that we had when we went. We then went back across the bridge and up the other trail to the viewpoint of the waterfall. There is a small hut there that looks out towards the waterfall.

On the way back along the trail, we noticed another path that went up the other side of the hill. We followed the trail up and this one goes higher than the one at the viewpoint. We got to a point where there was a warning sign and continued past it to the top. The trail past this point gets very narrow and can be scary if you’re afraid of heights. This trail goes over the waterfall and you get an amazing view of the town with a mountainous background. We took some rest here before heading back down and back to the car park.

Mojanda Cajas – Andean Lakes

Jean Maldonado — Sat, 19 Dec 2020 11:25:00 +0000

Some amount of preparation is necessary to visit the lakes at Mojanda Cajas as there are several routes. The main route is the one that has a road coming from Otavalo. This route is a cobblestone road that arrives at the main lake, so it’s easily accessible by all vehicles types. If you’re coming from Otavalo then this is the better option, however, if you’re making your way from Quito, this route adds another 30-40 minutes to your journey. The alternative route is a dirt road from Tabacundo. Given this, it’s not suitable for small vehicle types and if it has been raining, only 4×4 cars will be able to make it up. So if you plan to come from Quito, make sure to check the weather.

Since this place is quite remote, there is no public transport to the lake. Therefore, you first need to take public transportation to Otavalo or Tabacundo, and then look for a taxi service. There are also pickup truck services in these areas which may be more suitable. When booking the transportation service, you should agree on either a time for them to wait for you before heading back, or ask them to return to pick you up if you plan to be there a while. Otherwise, it’ll be a long walk back as it is kilometers of uninhabited landscapes.

We went via the Tabacundo route and it takes about an hour to get to Tabacundo from Quito. From Tabacundo, it then takes about another hour along the dirt road to reach the lakes. It had not been raining recently when we went, but certain parts of the road were very muddy. We were in a small SUV-type vehicle that only struggled in one uphill part where the passengers had to get off. Throughout the drive, you get to enjoy some amazing landscapes of rocky mountains and green valleys. Towards the end of the journey, we managed to spot the lake from a distance. We came across a viewpoint where we got off to take some pictures. We then continued another 15 minutes downhill to reach the car park by the lake.

Next to the car park, there is a small area with some cabins that can be rented out and a small garden area. We got there at around 9 AM and it looked like there was no one around so we had the whole lake to ourselves. At the end of the garden, there is a small pier that you can walk on to and get some great pictures. It was cloudy when we got there so the water looked quite grey. However, the sun did come out for a bit and the water looked much clearer. No matter the weather, the surrounding landscape is amazing. It’s also possible to go in the water, but be warned, the water is freezing cold. We managed to go in knee height for a couple of seconds before running back out. We spent about 30 minutes at the lake before it got cloudy again, so we decided to head down just in case it started to rain. If the weather was better or if we had been camping, there is a map at the site with several trails in the area.

Condor Park & Quitsato Sundial

Jean Maldonado — Fri, 10 Jan 2020 21:43:00 +0000

Located on a hill just outside Otavalo, it takes less than 2 hours to get to Condor Park from Quito. It’s best to get there by car since once at Otavalo, it’s quite an off the beaten path route to the site. Or you could take a bus to Otavalo and then take a taxi/Uber² up the hill. You may have to walk the way back down which would take about an hour. We made our way by car and took the Panamericana highway to make a stop at the Quitsato Sundial. This site is about 1 hour 20 minutes down the highway just before reaching Cayambe. You can take a bus from Quito to Cayambe and get off at La Bola de Guachalá. If going by car, there is plenty of parking available. We first made a stop at La Bola de Guachalá where there is the welcome sign for Cayambe. Across the road, there is also a monument dedicated to the equatorial line and the peace between Ecuador and Korea. Quitsato is then a short walk away and this site is a large sundial located at exactly latitude 0.0, whereas the Middle of the World Monument is slightly off. It costs 2 USD³ to visit the site and a guide gives a history of the sundial and how it works. After the talk, we walked around to take some pictures and then continued on the highway towards Otavalo.

After driving for about 35 minutes just before getting to Otavalo and after passing Lake San Pablo, we got off the highway to climb up the hill to Condor Park. Most of these roads are paved and signs direct you to the site. Make sure you follow the signs since they will take you through paved roads whereas Google Maps may take you via steep dirt roads. There is plenty of parking available at the site and entrance costs 3.50 USD each. There is a scheduled show of a bird taking flight and we were told there would be one at 4 PM.

We got there just before 4 PM but they had started the show earlier so we only caught the end of it. The show takes place in an amphitheater at the end of the park. The handler had a small hawk and an eagle. The birds had already flown when we got there and he was finishing up his talk. After he was done, people were invited to take pictures with the birds. We were only allowed to hold the small hawk as the larger eagle wasn’t fully trained yet. After taking pictures, we went around the park to take a look at the birds. The highlight is the eagles and the condors. A pair of condors had just been given a piece of meat and we got to see them fighting over it.

As we walked around, outside some of the cages there were panels with the story of the rescued bird. We spent about an hour walking around before heading back to the parking lot. When exiting the site, you get a great view of the Imbabura volcano and Lake San Pablo. The clouds were clearing up a bit as we were leaving so we managed to see almost all of the majestic volcano. On the way down the hill, you also get great views of the tourist town of Otavalo. We drove through the town and then headed back to Quito.

Quito – El Panecillo & La Libertad

Jean Maldonado — Thu, 09 Jan 2020 18:14:00 +0000

When in Quito, if you wake up to clear skies, you should immediately head to a viewpoint of the city. There are several viewpoints around the city, but the most popular and touristic one is probably El Panecillo. The hill is located just south of the colonial city center making it accessible no matter where you’re staying in the city. The surrounding area is notorious for thieves and known to be dangerous, but the hill itself is safe and patrolled by tourist police. The easiest way to get there is by car, so it would be best to take a taxi or an Uber¹. There are parking spaces available and there’s a local guard who charges 1 USD². Another option would be to take a tourist bus which normally departs from the park La Carolina. The hill has a statue of an aluminum winged Virgin Mary which costs 1 USD to enter. The museum details its history and construction. You can then head to the balcony for a view of the colonial city center. It’s not necessary to have access to the balcony for a great view of the city since you get unobstructed views throughout the hill. There are several stalls at the site with benches to rest on. It’s a popular site with the locals and on some days, there are planned events organized by the municipality.

Across from El Panecillo on the slopes of Pichincha, you can find La Libertad. There is a museum there called ‘Templo de la Patria‘ (Temple of the Homeland) dedicated to the heroes of the Battle of Pichincha. Once again, the surrounding area is known to be dangerous so it’s best to take a taxi or Uber there. The entrance is gated and you have to leave your ID with the guard if you’re parking there. The use of the car park is free and there is no cost to visit the museum. As you walk to the museum, you get a spectacular view of the city. You’ll be able to see the colonial city center, the start of the modern north, and also parts of the south. If the skies are clear, you’ll be able to see the peaks of the volcanos in ‘La Avenida de Los Vocanes’ (Volcano Avenue). When entering the museum, you’ll need to sign in at reception with your ID/Passport number. You’re then free to roam throughout the museum and learn about the history of the Battle of Pichincha. There are painted murals, tombs, and many artifacts from the battle on display. You can also get to the terrace which serves as another excellent viewpoint of the city.

Quilotoa – Volcanic Crater Lake

Jean Maldonado — Wed, 08 Jan 2020 22:01:00 +0000

From Quito, it’s about a 3-hour drive south and it’s easiest to get there by car. An organized tour from Quito would be the best option. For a cheaper alternative, you could first take public transport to Latacunga. From here, you can take another bus or hire private transportation to Quilotoa. There’s a small town at the top of the caldera which has some hostels, restaurants, and a parking lot. When entering the small town, there is a 2 USD¹ fee per car. This is the only fee and gives everyone access to the lake. We got there at around noon and after parking the car, we first headed to a viewing deck at the tip of the caldera. There are several great spots to take pictures of the lake.

After taking some pictures, we headed down the trail to the lake. It’s mostly rocky but in some parts, there is gravel/sand. It took us about 35 minutes to get down to the lake. There’s a small shop by the lake where you can buy some snacks and drinks. You can also rent kayaks for 30 minutes (3 USD), 1 hour (6 USD), and 3 hours (10 USD). We rented some Kayaks for 30 minutes and managed to row about halfway into the lake. We got a bit wet from kayaking, so after giving the kayaks back we dried off in the sun by the small pier on the lake. We then went for a short walk by the shoreline before heading back up. The hike up is steep and more challenging but you can rent mules for 10 USD to take you back. I walked back up and it took me about 50 minutes. The altitude makes it harder and I was very out of breath by the time I got back up.

We then had some lunch at a restaurant in the town before heading back to Quito. On the way back, we stopped at the Toachi River Canyon which is a short 20-minute drive into the journey. It’s quite an amazing sight as it looks like the ground has been torn apart. It was a quick 15-minute stop for pictures before continuing on our way back. Whilst on the highway back to Quito, we caught a glimpse of the towering Cotopaxi volcano. The skies where quite clear and we could see other volcanos in the area which made for a great drive back.

Papallacta – Natural Mountain Hot Springs

Jean Maldonado — Sat, 04 Jan 2020 18:12:00 +0000

From Quito, it can take between 1 hour and 1 hour 30 minutes depending on where you’re staying to get to Papallacta. Public transport is an option but it’s best to go by car or organized tour. The weather varies but normally when it’s winter in Quito between October and May, it tends to be summer in Papallacta. As you approach Papallacta, if the skies are clear you’ll get to see the snow-topped Volcano Antisana in the background. It’s a great sight and the highway is in good condition for a comfortable journey to Papallacta.

Once in Papallacta, there are a couple of hot spring pools in the small town. The ones near the bottom are cheaper and have fewer facilities. We went to the one at the top of the hill called Termas de Papallacta which is a resort and spa but has pools open to the public. There’s lots of parking available and a guarded entrance. Tickets cost 9 USD¹ each and give you access to several pools, changing rooms, showers, and restroom facilities. You can also rent lockers available from the shop/cafe. There are several indoor changing rooms throughout the site as well as restrooms and showers. This site is quite relaxed with what you wear in the pools. It was very sunny on the day we went, so a lot of people got into the pools with a t-shirt and hat to avoid getting sunburnt.

We got there at around 9.30 AM so it wasn’t that busy. We first headed to the pools on the upper level. There are gazebos with tables and chairs throughout and we managed to grab one of those spots. It’s a nice place to relax in the pools and chill on the chairs. Around the back on the upper level, there is also a polar pool. After getting out of the hot pools, some people would jump in the polar pool since its supposed to be good for your muscles. Later in the afternoon, we went to explore the lower pools. There is a large pool and the temperature here is a little lower than the ones on the upper level. There are then some more pools around the corner and these are very hot. One of them has a warning sign and I could just about dip my toe in it. We also found an indoor area below the large pool which had 2 waterfall-like showers with the hot spring water. We stayed until around 2.30 PM before heading down to the town to get some lunch. Once we were done, we then headed back to Quito.

Quito – Middle of the World Monument

Jean Maldonado — Fri, 03 Jan 2020 22:15:00 +0000

The capital city of Quito sits between mountains so it is long and narrow. Choosing how to get to Ciudad Mitad del Mundo will depend on where you are staying in the city. The official website lists several options which include a tour bus, public transport, or taxi/Uber⁴. The site has a guarded parking lot so going by car is also an option. The entrance ticket costs 5 USD⁵ and gives you access to all the museums and facilities at the site.

The highlight of the site is the monument at the center of the complex. Inside the monument, there is a museum that starts with a history of how the equatorial line was calculated. There is then a science section with interactive experiments concerning the Earth and equator. There are then several floors that display the different ethnic groups and cultures in Ecuador’s 3 main regions; coast, mountain range, and east. After climbing through these floors, you then reach the viewpoint at the top of the monument. From here, you can enjoy views of the surrounding landscape and city.

After visiting the monument, you can visit other museums in the complex or the planetarium which runs a show every hour. People start queuing for it about 15 minutes before the show starts so head there early as there are limited seats. We were at the end of the queue and didn’t manage to get in, so we decided to leave instead of waiting an hour for the next show.

San Jacinto – Relaxing Beaches

Jean Maldonado — Sat, 28 Dec 2019 23:25:00 +0000

From the capital city Quito, it’s about a 6-hour 30-minute drive down the winding roads that descend the Andes. We left at around 6 AM and stopped in Santo Domingo de Los Tsachilas for some breakfast at around 8.30 AM. We then continued for another 2 hours and 30 minutes to Chone where we took a small break at around noon. We then drove 1 hour 15 minutes to San Jacinto getting there at around 1.30 PM. It’s a very small town and joins with San Clemente. We stayed in a villa just off the highway which was 2 blocks from the beach. After settling in, we headed to a restaurant in San Clemente. The tide was high in the late afternoon with violent waves crashing onto the rocky shores. It wasn’t possible to get in the sea but there was a beautiful sunset on the horizon.

The following day, we headed to San Jacinto beach where there’s a colorful sign with the town’s name. The tide was low now with gentle waves so it was possible to get in. A family friend was from the area and he met us there and took us to a beach a little further south towards Crucita. This beach was on the mouth of a river so you could bathe in the river as well. There was also a protected mangrove swamp where you can go for a walk. A site official takes you around and provides info on the flora and fauna. It’s free but they sell bracelets to help with the maintenance of the site. There are several birds at the beach, especially cranes. You can also look for small crabs popping out from their burrows.

At around 4 PM, we went to get some food at Hotel San Jacinto. They have a seaside restaurant serving fresh seafood and outdoor seating. They have a viewpoint looking out to the sea that you can climb. The waves break on the banks so you’ll get wet when a large wave comes in. After eating, we headed to Bahia de Caráquez which was about a 40-minute drive away. There’s a small town in this bay which has a large bridge that crosses over to San Vicente. We drove over the bridge and walked out to a pier at San Vicente Malecon which has great panoramic views of the city. After the sun had set, we headed back to our villa.

On the final day, we headed to the beach at Crucita in the morning which was a 20-minute drive south of San Jacinto. This beach is more touristic and we had breakfast at one of the beachside restaurants. After breakfast, we went for a short stroll along the beach before making our way back to Quito.