Volcano – Maldo Travels

Salar de Uyuni Tour – Day 3

Jean Maldonado — Mon, 24 Sep 2018 21:21:00 +0000

It’s another early 6.30 AM start for breakfast at our lodge in Laguna Colorada. We then load our bags onto the Jeep and leave around 7.30 AM. It’s a short drive to our first stop – Árbol de Piedra (Rock Tree) – arriving at around 8.15 AM. Located in the Siloli Desert, the iconic rock in the form of a tree sits among a field of large rocks. Our guide said these were volcanic rocks that had been shaped by winds reaching 200 Km/h over hundreds of years. We were given around 25 minutes to walk around and managed to get some great pictures. We then get back on the Jeep and drive through the Siloli Desert towards a stretch of lakes.

We arrive at the first stop at Lake Honda at around 9.15 AM. We first stopped at a viewpoint for a panoramic view of the lake and then headed down to the lake. From the bottom, you can see the lake has a mirror effect reflecting the mountain landscape. Next, we continue for another 30 minutes to Lake Hedionda. We saw a couple of birds at this lake and walked about for about 10 minutes before getting back on the Jeep to head to the next lake. While driving we passed Lake Charcota and then reached Lake Cañapa. There were some more birds at this lake so we spent around 10 minutes walking around.

Then it was back to the Jeep and off to the viewpoint of the active Volcano Ollagüe. We reached the viewpoint at around 11.45 AM. There was a rock that you can climb up to take some pictures. We spent about 15 minutes here before continuing to another lake. I believe this lake was Laguna Negra (Black Lake) due to its dark color. Opposite the lake, there some more rocks dispersed in the desert. This was a quick 10 minute stop before heading to the last destination before lunch – Valle de Rocas (Rock Valley). It was only a 10-15 minute drive to get to this valley. Many rocks are laying all over the place in this valley, but the most iconic one was named the headless condor. This rock formation looked like a condor taking flight with only its head missing. We’re only here for 5 minutes to step out and take a picture since everyone was getting hungry by 1.30 PM. So it was onwards to the small village of Villa Alota where we had lunch in what seemed to normally be a restaurant. There are restroom facilities here which cost 2 BOB¹ per person.

Once we finished lunch, we continued towards the Uyuni Salt Flats. On our way, we passed through a scenic valley where we stopped to take pictures at the bottom of the valley and then when we reached the top. Shortly after, we also came across some plains where we saw llamas grazing in the field so we stopped there for some pictures. What was particularly interesting was how it looked like the wall of the mountains had been cut to make way for the road. Next, we arrived at the small town of Julaca which has railway tracks running through the middle of the town. There is a bar/restaurant in the town we visited where you can buy drinks and snacks. There was also an abandoned decaying train by the railway tracks which we climbed to take a picture. From here, we were now in the final leg of our journey to the Uyuni Salt Flats.

We were a little ahead of schedule so the guide suggested visiting some caverns before the sunset at the salt flats. The group agreed so it was a quick visit to Hell’s Cavern. The entrance tickets were 15 BOB each. As you step in, the cavern is dark until the site’s guide turns on the lights. He then hands out helmets before going deeper into the cavern. Some crouching and squeezing through gaps are involved but it’s a small cavern and takes about 15 minutes to complete. We then drove into the salt flats for about 30 minutes arriving at our sunset spot at around 5.45 PM. We stayed here to watch the sun fall behind some mountains. Following the sunset, it’s back on the Jeep to head to the hotel around 6.25 PM. Our hotel was made of salt and here we were allocated rooms between 2 people. There were shower facilities here as well which cost 10 BOB each. The dining area is on the first floor and dinner is served around 8 PM. There are sockets in the dining area if you need to charge any electronic devices. The rooms are basic but comfortable for a good night’s sleep.

Los Illinizas – Hiking in Volcano Avenue

Jean Maldonado — Tue, 07 Aug 2018 22:29:37 +0000

The twin peak volcano is located about 1-hour 30-minutes south of Quito on the road that goes past Machachi and through the small town of Chaupi. There is an access control point where the guards will take your details to sign you in and hold onto an ID. They will also ask if you are going to the south peak, north peak, or refuge. This is because the climb to the south peak can only be done with a licensed guide and the appropriate gear for glacial terrain. The north peak is easier to climb but the guards ensure you have the correct footwear and also insist on a guide. If your destination is the refuge, then the guards will simply ensure you have dressed adequately and let you through. The control point is open from 8 AM to 3 PM and you must sign out by 5 PM. The skies are normally clear in the morning and the clouds begin to creep in by the afternoon so I’d advise getting there as soon as it opens. If you do choose to climb the north peak, I’d recommend getting a guide as the trail is dangerous and many tourists have had accidents. The south peak is also infamous for claiming the lives of foreign climbers, so be warned, it is no easy feat.

To get there, you can take a bus to Machachi and then hire private 4×4 transportation there. The driver will drop you off at the start of the trail for the refuge and you can agree a time to be picked up. The trail leading up to the refuge takes around 2-hours 30-minutes depending on your skill level. The trail starts at an altitude of 3950 meters and is easy to follow thanks to the many signs showing the way. After about 1-hour 30-minutes, the dirt path begins to turn into a gravel path and it becomes more difficult to ascend. Depending on the time of year, you may come across patches of melting ice and snow. There are also several viewpoints of the landscape and given that its a clear day, you will be able to see the volcanos Cotopaxi, Rumiñahui, Pasochoa, and Corazon. Even if it’s partially cloudy, you may see the volcano peaks rising above the clouds; a truly magical sight.

The refuge is a rustic cabin at an altitude of 4750 meters so it’s a lot colder and windier up there. The guards at the control point let us know that the cabin may be empty when we get there and we can let ourselves in. The door is a little stiff so it seems locked but you just have to give it a good shove. Inside the cabin, there’s a kitchen with a stove, water, tea, coffee, and seating area. There are several beds there as well for those who stay the night to climb the south peak the following morning. On the wall, there is a list of prices for anything you make yourself and there’s a metal piggy bank to pay for it. We packed a couple of snacks and ingredients to make a tuna sandwich. So we just paid for some tea and coffee and used the utensils to prepare our sandwich. The restrooms are in the same building but you have to go outside and turn the corner to get to them.

Most people don’t know that there is a small lake 30 minutes away from the refuge on the other side of the mountain. To get there, you start following the trail that goes towards the north peak. You’ll then see the trail that leads directly to the peak, and to the left, there’s another trail that bends around the mountain. It may not look like much of a trail, but if you follow this for 20 minutes you’ll get to the lake. You’ll be able to see the north and south peaks from behind the mountain from here and makes for great pictures. By this point, it was noon and the clouds had moved in on us. It’s never a good idea to climb a mountain in the fog so we decided to go back down.

Volcan Antisana & Laguna La Mica

Jean Maldonado — Mon, 11 Jun 2018 12:32:25 +0000

Towering over the clouds at just over 5700 meters above sea level, Volcan Antisana is Ecuador’s 4th highest Volcano. It can be found in a beautiful and diverse national ecological reserve which is also home to Laguna La Mica. Geographically, it is close to the capital city of Quito and easily accessible by car. Google maps do not have the updated roads but the national ecological reserve can be accessed via the small town of Pintag. It is a scenic route which goes past a stretch of volcanic lava rock from a prehistoric eruption that is currently being quarried. Getting there by public transport is more challenging. You can take buses up until Pintag but then you would need to get private transportation that goes to the ecological reserve or book a tour. It is possible to climb Volcan Antisana but it is for highly experienced climbers and requires adequate climbing equipment for ice and snow. I believe that it is also necessary to get a permit from the officials in Pintag, so it is definitely a serious challenge to attempt.

Entry to the ecological reserve itself is free and the guard simply takes your ID details to sign you in. The ecological reserve opens at 9 AM and closes at 4 PM. I’d recommend getting there as soon as it opens since that’s when the skies are clearest for the best pictures of the volcano. Also, bring warm clothing as it gets very windy and cold due to being higher up than the capital. The lowest point is approximately 3100 meters and gets close to 4000 meters if you go on the trails around the lake. To get to Laguna La Mica, there is another checkpoint where the guard takes your ID details to sign you in. You have to leave the car at the parking lot at this entrance unless you have a senior with you. Laguna La Mica is a big C-shaped lake and the trails have great viewpoints of both the lake and Volcan Antisana. The short trails are 45 minutes long and take you halfway to get a view of the whole lake. The long trail is a 3 hours circuit which takes you to the other end of the lake. This terrain is great for acclimatizing if you plan to climb a mountain. However, do bring water and snacks as walking in high altitude is very exhausting

Acatenango Hike – A Rewarding Experience

Jean Maldonado — Wed, 23 May 2018 18:10:19 +0000

Located about a one hour drive from Antigua, Volcan Acatenango is a picture perfect stratovolcano standing at almost 4000 meters above sea level. It is joined with Volcan Fuego, which at the time was actively erupting allowing for great night time pictures (provided you have a good camera). It is possible to hike up both of these volcanos and tour agencies have different packages available. Our group opted for a 2-day Acatenango hike to be able to see the volcano in the early morning when skies are normally clear. The package cost 89 USD² and was all inclusive with meals (2 breakfast, 1 lunch, 1 dinner), gear (backpack, fleece, coat, gloves, hat), 5 liters of water, transportation, tents, sleeping bag, sleeping mat, and 2 professional guides. There was an option to hike to Volcan Fuego on the second day in the early morning for an extra 20 USD and the decision could be made at the end of the first hike. No one in our group ended up having the energy to do this since the Acatenango hike is extremely exhausting. There is also a 1-day hike leaving early morning and coming back down the same day.

Day 1

The agency does mention this is a difficult hike but they do downplay just how intense it is. On the first day, you will be carrying around 12-15 kg uphill from approximately 2200 meters to 3600 meters above sea level. The terrain is dirt and gravel, so on the steep slopes, you will take a step up and slide half a step down. It took us approximately 6 hours to reach the campsite. The guide sets the pace and breaks the hike up into 30-45 minutes each with a 20-30 minute rest. The second guide comes last to make sure no one gets left behind. The bus waits at the drop-off point for an hour in case someone decides to back out. In this case, the guide calls the driver to let him know someone is coming down, however, once the driver leaves, the only way is up. The weather also varies; it is cold in the early morning but then it starts to get hot very quickly. Halfway through our hike, it started to rain so our guide decided to take a break and let the rain pass. Water is also very important since you will be losing a lot of it through sweat. In the first two rest stops, there are small shops to buy snacks like chocolate and nuts.

When we got to the campsite, we could hear the rumbling of Volcan Fuego but we couldn’t see it because of the clouds. But these soon cleared for a brief moment and we could see Volcan Fuego erupting. It was a true spectacle and the eruptions occurred much more frequently than I expected – one ever 30 minutes or so. After helping the guides set up the tents, we took refuge in them to warm up since it was freezing outside. Meanwhile, the guides cooked dinner and then brought it over to our tents. We were told to be up at 4 AM to begin the hike up to the summit to get there by sunrise. However, getting a good nights sleep was difficult with the constant roaring of Volcan Fuego and the hard floor surface. At one point, the guides woke us up to see a massive eruption with lava flowing down Volcan Fuego’s side. which was a breathtaking sight.

Day 2

The early morning at base camp is pitch black and freezing cold so getting ready for the hike can be a bit of a challenge. Layers are very important to fight the cold; and once fully kitted out with our flashlights on, we begin the last leg of our journey to the top of Acatenango. This final hike is easier than day 1 since there are no backpacks. However, as it is all gravel it’s still tiring as it takes more effort to walk up since your feet sink in and slide back. It takes about 1-hour 30-minutes to 2-hours to complete this final stretch. Approaching the summit, the day gradually gets lighter as the sun begins to rise. Once at the top, the feeling is exhilarating. This was probably the most physically demanding feat I have ever accomplished and the reward is astounding. Not only witnessing the volcano erupting in front of me, but also the unobstructed view of the landscape of Antigua and other volcanos in the distance. We stayed there for about an hour before coming back down to base camp. Once there, the guides prepared breakfast and then we packed up before beginning the journey back down to meet the bus. Many people say the hike down is tougher because you use your knees to slow down. So I found it better to run down the mountain which is easier on the knees but is a lot more tiring.