Trail – Maldo Travels

Cunuyacu – Waterfall and Hot Spring

Jean Maldonado — Wed, 06 Jan 2021 08:47:00 +0000

Located on the foothills of the volcanic twin mountains Los Ilinizas, the waterfall and hot spring of Cunuyacu are about a 2-hour drive away from Quito. These destinations are less frequented by tourists and on an off-the-beaten-path route. To get there, you first need to get to the Ecological Reserve which can be accessed via a dirt road in San Juan de Pastocalle after coming off the Panamericana highway. There is a large tourist sign at the entrance of the dirt road so it should be easy to spot. It had rained the day before so the road was quite muddy. We went in an SUV-type vehicle and managed to get through most of the way without any issues. There was just one part where there was quite a large rock where the passengers had to get off for the car to make it up.

We made it to a car park at around 7.30 AM, and although we could proceed further, we decided to leave the cars there since the road wasn’t getting any better. We then started hiking up, and after a couple of minutes, we came across the entrance that had a large welcome sign. The road at this point was cordoned off to block vehicles access. There was also a house here and I had read up that there was someone who lives in the area that provides transportation. However, it was quite early and no one seemed to be in, so we went across the barrier and continued hiking up. From this point, the dirt road got much worse with large holes and rocks. Only a 4×4 vehicle would be able to make it up, but for a hike the road is fine. It took us about an hour to reach a viewpoint which was also the start of the trail.

First, the trail descends to the river where there is a small wooden footbridge. It was quite muddy so take care when going down the trail as some parts are very slippery. After crossing the bridge, the trail splits with one route leading to the waterfall and the other going to the hot spring. The trail has signposts along the way so you won’t get lost. We first followed signs for the waterfall and we got there in about 10 minutes. The waterfall itself isn’t too big, but the highlight is its red/orange color. The color is due to the rocks that have been tinted red by volcanic minerals. The color of the water itself is clear and it doesn’t give off a bad odor that volcanic minerals tend to produce. We were able to get close to the waterfall which made for some great pictures. To get close to the waterfall you have to cross the stream which has some slippery rocks. Water shoes or wellies would be great but not necessary. We were the only ones there and we didn’t run into any other groups at this time. We spent about 20 minutes taking pictures here before continuing to the hot spring.

We first turned back and walked along the trail to return to the footbridge. Then we followed the other route that leads up to the hot spring. Along the trail, we passed through a mystical forest of Polylepis trees. In Ecuador, this tree is nicknamed the ‘Paper Tree’ due to its appearance of the bark peeling off like layers of paper. This trail is a little longer and we reached the hot spring in about 20 minutes. Once again, we were the only group there and had the place to ourselves. The hot spring is a small natural pool where they’ve stacked some sandbags to contain more water. The water temperature itself is warm, not hot, but it’s more refreshing after the hike. You can smell the minerals here, but it is not off-putting. The highlight is the view since the pool is like a balcony on the mountainside looking over the landscape. The weather wasn’t great so we didn’t get to see much of the neighboring mountains, but it was still a great place to relax. We stayed here for about an hour before it started to rain, so we started heading back before a downpour.

It was a wonderful experience abundant in nature and great for a day trip from the capital city. The hike itself was fairly easy and only tiring due to being at an altitude of over 4000 meters. If you go later in the day, the transportation service would save you the 1-hour initial hike. It was also great to have the place to ourselves without having to deal with tourist crowds.

Botany Bay – Beautiful Sandy Beach

Jean Maldonado — Sun, 13 Sep 2020 06:41:00 +0000

It’s possible to take public transport to this destination, but you need to first take a train to either Broadstairs or Margate and then take a bus to Botany Bay. From London, it’ll take around 2 hours and 30 minutes, depending on where in London you’re departing from. It’s much easier to get there by car since it’s a 1-hour 45-minute drive if there’s no traffic. However, this beach is very popular in the summer, so it’s best to leave in the early morning to get a decent parking spot near the beach.

The Botany Bay area is very residential and depending on where you’ve managed to park, you’ll likely have to walk along the cliff to one of the beach entrances. You’ll get some spectacular views of the sea and beach from this walk. There’s a free toilet and changing area at one of the main entrances, it’s not very big nor well kept though. If it’s a busy summer’s day, then there will probably be a long queue as well.

The beach itself is quite small, but it’s a sandy beach which is quite rare in the UK, hence its popularity. It’s also rather unique given the white chalk cliffs that border it. The cliffs make for great photo opportunities and are also great to walk along since they have great viewpoints of the beach. When we went in September, the weather was in the high 20s to 30s, but the water was still icy cold. Overall, it’s a great beach that’s close enough to London for a day trip.

Seven Sisters – Scenic White Cliffs

Jean Maldonado — Sat, 12 Sep 2020 17:08:00 +0000

The closest towns to the cliffs are Seaford and Eastbourne. Both have train stations with services from London and the train ride is about 2 hours. We decided to go to Seaford by car and it’s also a 2-hour drive. It’s quite a popular tourist site so the car park by the seaside can get full very quickly. There are a couple of stalls at the stone beach for snacks, drinks, and ice cream. It was quite chilly when we went, so there weren’t many people in the sea since it was freezing cold. There’s a path along the stone beach lined with colorful beach huts which makes for a nice walk.

The path leads to the start of the trail at Seaford Head West that goes towards the white cliffs. The walk up the cliff is quite steep so it’s a little tiring. The rest of the trail is easier though and fairly flat. There are no barriers on the cliff edges and there are warning signs throughout the trail stating that ground on the cliff edge can be unstable. So it’s best to stay clear from it and always keep an eye on children. There are some great views along the trail though, and you can pick up some of the white chalk rocks along the way.

We walked along the trail for about an hour until we got to a viewpoint of the Seven Sisters white cliffs. From this viewpoint, you get a panoramic view of the rolling cliffs. You can continue along the trail to get to the Seven Sisters cliffs, but we decided to turn back to Seaford to have time for a quick stop in Brighton that is only a 30-minute drive away.

Peak District – Cycle Trail and Caves

Jean Maldonado — Sun, 17 Nov 2019 21:50:00 +0000

From London, it’s about a 3-hour 30-minute drive to Peak District National Park which makes it ideal for a weekend trip. We headed out on a Friday evening to the small town of Aston just outside Sheffield. On Saturday, we planned to go cycling on a trail. There are several trails in the National Park and we chose to go on the Monsal Trail. This trail used to be a railway track that has been converted for walking and cycling. It’s mostly a dirt and pebble trail but parts of it have been paved. We first drove to Hassop Station which is 45 minutes away from Aston. On our way, we stopped at Bakewell for some brunch at a quaint B&B that had a fireplace. There’s a bike rental shop at Hassop Station and there are different types of bikes for hire starting from 2 hours. We chose to rent a standard adult bike for 2 hours which cost 12 GBP¹. We set out at 11.45 AM making stops along the way for pictures. The trail ends at Blackwell Mill and we stopped at the last bridge to turn back. When we got back, we were very muddy since the bikes didn’t have mudguards. We cleaned up a bit and then headed back to our Airbnb² in Aston.

On Sunday, we decided to check out some caves. First, we headed to Speedwell Cavern which was about an hour away from our Airbnb in Aston. We got there at around 12.30 PM and there’s plenty of parking space opposite the entrance. When buying tickets, we saw that there was a discount on a joint ticket with Peak Cavern. We bought the joint ticket for 20 GBP each and then waited about 15 minutes for the next guided tour. A guide then calls us into a room where we pick up a helmet. He goes over the schedule of the tour and begins talking about the history of the cave. We’re then taken down some steps and arrive at the underground river. The cave is very narrow with just enough space for the boat to fit. Everyone gets into the boat and the guide then uses his hands on the ceiling to navigate down the river. On the way, the guide talks about the mining operations that used to happen in the cave and how the miners and children were exploited. After about 15 minutes, we reach the end of the river and get out of the boat into a chamber. There’s a small waterfall inside and the guide says that now you can see the bottom since the miners dumped rocks from their excavations into the hole. The guide then talks about the geography of the cave and we have about 10 minutes to take pictures. We then get back on the boat and head for the exit.

Next, we drove about 5 minutes to the nearby town of Castleton. Peak Cavern is located in this town and there’s no dedicated car park at the site, so you have to find parking in the town. We found a space nearby and it’s a nice walk by the riverside to the cave entrance. We got there at 2.10 PM and a tour had just started so we joined in. The guide was talking about how the site was used to make rope and showed us some of the tools used. We then continue into the cave and the guide mentions that several movies have been filmed in the cave. He also mentions that Queen Victoria once visited the cave and they dug a new passage so she wouldn’t have to crawl. We arrive at a large chamber and the guide talks about the history and geography of the cave. We then head back to the exit. Following our visit, we went for a walk around the town and grabbed some food before making our way back to London.

Mount Ijen – Blue Fire Crater

Jean Maldonado — Mon, 23 Sep 2019 21:36:52 +0000

When looking online, the cheapest tour to hike to the Mount Ijen Crater was around 120 USD³. We decided to book tours once we arrived at Kuta since it’s usually cheaper to buy once your there. We found a 1-day private tour that cost 1,500,000 IDR⁴ which was around 105 USD at the time of writing. Our driver picked us up from the hotel at around 6 PM and we headed to Gilmanuk Harbor on the western tip of Bali. The drive took around 5 hours making a stop at some stalls on the highway about halfway through. Once we reach the harbor, the driver becomes our guide and buys our tickets for a ferry to Ketapang. We took the 11.30 PM ferry and it takes about 1 hour 30 minutes to cross the Bali strait. At Ketapang harbor, our driver/guide then takes us to the Jeep that’s waiting for us with another driver and Ijen guide. Note that the clocks have gone back 1 hour so it’s still around midnight when we arrive. It’s then about a 1-hour 30-minute drive to the base camp at Bumi Perkemahan Paltuding. In these early hours, it’s pitch black and freezing cold outside. We take refuge in a cafe to get a hot drink and some food before beginning our hike.

At around 1.45 AM we set out with some flashlights to climb Mount Ijen. It’s a dirt trail and starts with a gradual initial ascent which gets steeper. We took a couple of breaks and took these opportunities to look up at the starlit sky which was a wonderful sight. After about 40 minutes, we reach a refuge for a 10-minute break. There are some benches to rest on and you can buy some drinks/snacks at a stall. We then continue for another 25 minutes to the top of the crater. Once at the top, our guide shows us how to put on our gas masks to protect us from the sulfur clouds. It’s then about a 30-minute walk down the crater. The trail here becomes gravel/sandy and is much steeper so it can be quite slippery if you’re wearing trainers. Pay attention and give way to the miners climbing up the crater since they can be carrying around 80 KG on their shoulders. Once at the bottom of the crater, the sulfur smell is quite strong even with the gas masks on. You can see the miners at work here and they also have a stall selling carved sulfur rocks as souvenirs. It is here where you can see the famous blue fire burning down the side of the crater. We got down there at 3.40 AM and there was already quite a big crowd. It’s an amazing sight and it hides behind sulfur clouds which makes it tricky to get a picture that captures its beauty. We stayed for about 15 minutes before heading to the top of the mountain for sunrise.

We started to see some light at around 4.30 AM and we got to our sunrise spot at about 4.50 AM. It’s still quite cold and there are some stone structures to take refuge in while waiting for the sun to come up. One of the guides got a little bonfire going in one of them and people gathered around to warm up. As the sun comes up, it’s a beautiful sight but a bit of an awkward spot as there’s a massive mountain that stands in the way of the sunrise. We stayed until around 5.20 AM and then started our journey back down.

On the way down, we made several stops to take pictures of the lake but it was very cloudy from the gases. However, the view of the surrounding landscape is breathtaking as you can see mountain peaks above a seabed of clouds. We made a stop at a restroom which you can find at the rim of the crater before making the descent. Then, we began our descent at around 6 AM, making a couple stops for pictures of the landscape we had not seen on the way up in the darkness. Along the way, we saw miners offering to take people in their carts. The way down was much quicker and we got back to the car park at around 7 AM.

After getting changed, we get back in the jeep to head out on the 1-hour 30-minute drive back to the Ketapang Harbor. We took the 9 AM ferry back to Gilmanuk harbor. With the 1-hour time difference, we reached the harbor at 11.30 AM and then set out on our 5-hour drive back to Kuta. We made a stop for lunch at a highway buffet-style restaurant which was probably the most authentic Balinese meal I had. We got back to our hotel at around 5 PM and went to get some sleep to rest from the exhausting but unforgettable experience.

Bali – A Full Day Tour Around Ubud

Jean Maldonado — Sun, 22 Sep 2019 23:07:49 +0000

A couple of my friends who had been to Bali said that Ubud was one of their favorite places to stay. Since we didn’t have time to stay there, we took a private transportation tour which went to some of the sites around Ubud which cost 700,000 IDR⁵ each. We were picked up from our hotel in Kuta at around 8.30 AM. Our first stop was at Tari Barong Jambe for a traditional dance show and we got there just in time for the 9.30 AM show. It’s an outdoor stage and tickets cost 100,000 IDR. Upon entrance, they hand out a program with the stories of the scenes for you to follow. The show lasts about an hour and it was interesting but it was a little too long and I don’t think it was worth it. Next, we continue another 10 minutes to Celuk Swing & Luwak Coffee. At this site, they sell the famous Luwak coffee. The entrance is free and one of the attendants takes you around the site on a guided tour. She stopped at several photo spots and talks about the procurement process of Luwak coffee. She then leaves us at a bench with a tea and coffee menu for us to get free samples of. We get a choice of 13 but the Luwak Coffee sample costs 50,000 IDR. There is also a swing next to the benches over the terraces and she tells us it costs 300,000 IDR. After the samples, she takes us to the shop if we’d like to buy any of the samples we tried. Overall, this was site was an interesting experience and well worth the visit. The drinks were very good and we ended up buying some, but the swing was a little too pricy.

We then get back to the car and continue another 5 minutes to the traditional Balinese Batuan Temple. Our driver dropped us off near the entrance and told us we first need to pick up some Sarongs opposite the temple. This was to cover up our bare legs since we were wearing shorts. Entrance to the temple is free but there is a donation box when you pick up the Sarong. There are several shrines at the temple and the detailed carvings throughout are very impressive. We spent about 20 minutes here walking around and taking some pictures before continuing.

Our next stop is a 10-minute drive away to Tegenungan Waterfall and we got there at 12.30 PM. Our driver dropped us off near the entrance and tickets cost 40,000 IDR each. It’s about a 15-20 minute walk down to the waterfall and on the way, there are several photo spots at some viewpoints. Once at the stream, you can get in to go for a swim. The water is quite shallow but it gets deeper closer to the waterfall. There are some buoys and rope to cordon off access to the waterfall so you can’t get too close to it for safety. A short walk down the stream, there is a small spring water pool you can get into. There are also some benches and toilets just outside the pool. There’s also a bridge to cross to the other side of the stream. You can then climb up the other side to a restaurant where there is a swing over the waterfall. We didn’t have time to check it out since we had to be back up at the parking lot by 1.45 PM.

The final stop is at the Tegallalang Rice Terrace which was a 35-minute drive away. This spot is very busy with lots of traffic on its 2-lane road so the driver dropped us off a short walk away. There was a guard helping people cross the road and he asked for a donation. We thought this was for entering the rice fields but after going down some steps, there was another official asking for donations to the rice terrace. We gave the guard 20,000 IDR and the 30,000 to enter the rice terrace. The views of the terraces are amazing. There are several swings but they cost around 300,000 IDR which is quite pricy. There were also locals with their tools offering photo opportunities but we didn’t ask how much. You can walk down to the stream and then climb up to the other side of the terraces. On the way up to the other side, there is another official asking for donations. We gave 20,000 IDR and continued to the top. It’s a nice place to visit but there are lots of tourists and the locals charging ‘donations’ everywhere. We finished our visit at around 3 PM and met our driver in a nearby parking lot. We then headed back to Kuta which took almost 2 hours with horrendous traffic.

Gili Islands – A Remote Paradise

Jean Maldonado — Sat, 21 Sep 2019 22:01:37 +0000

Coming from Kuala Lumpur, we arrived at Bali International Airport at around 10 PM. Getting through customs was fairly straightforward and when exiting, there were several tour sales reps around. We found an ATM at the airport to get cash out and then we got a Grab⁶ to our hotel in Kuta. We didn’t have boat tickets yet for the Gili Islands so we asked our driver who gave us a Whatsapp number for a sales rep. There was no more space on the boats departing from the nearby port at Serangan, but the rep said there was a boat leaving from Padang Bai to Gili Trawangan at 10 AM. This harbor was about an hour’s drive away and the sales rep said he could offer us return tickets plus transportation for 1,600,000 IDR⁷ for both of us. It was quite pricy but it was similar to what we found online for just boat tickets. The car picked us up at around 8.30 AM the following day to take us to Padang Bai. There was a lot of traffic getting out of Kuta but we made it to the harbor in time for the boat. The pier at the harbor was very busy with lots of people waiting to get on their boats. We’re all given stickers to help the staff determine who goes on which boat. As you board the boat, they take your luggage to secure onto the boat. You then head down to sit in the lower deck. The boat travels quite quickly and about 20 minutes in, the captain announces that people can head to the upper deck. Beer is also available to buy on the boat. It’s quite a long journey and we arrived at Gili Trawangan at 12.30 PM.

The Island

We stayed on the largest of the Gili islands, Gili Trawangan, which is also known as Gili T. The main strip on the east side of the island is filled with tour agencies, restaurants, hotels, and bars. There are also lots of certified scuba diving agencies, many of which also offer accommodation. This part of the island is very lively and great to relax in during the day. It has beautiful sandy beaches with crystal clear blue waters. In the evening, you can catch the sunset whilst having a drink or some dinner with a view of the sea. At night, the bars have live music and there are 2 or 3 clubs on the strip. The atmosphere is great with people dancing on the beach outside the club. There is also a night food market that does some great barbecues and fresh seafood. The west side of the island is less busy and has some resort hotels. It’s a great spot to catch the sunset and it’s a short 25-minute walk from the east side. You can also rent bikes if you’d like to explore more of the island.

Snorkeling

We booked this tour for 100,000 IDR each and the boat left the pier at 1.30 PM. The first snorkeling stop is at the shore of Gili Meno. There are some corals here and lots of colorful fishes. The main attraction is some statues on the seabed where lots of fish swim around. The water is clear, calm, and quite shallow which makes it great for snorkeling. We spend about 30 minutes here before heading to Turtle Point. The waters here are much deeper and fewer fishes are swimming around. The highlight here is that you are pretty much guaranteed to spot turtles swimming or resting on the seabed. We made 2 stops at different parts of the Turtle Point and got to see lots of turtles. We stayed in the area for about an hour and 15 minutes before heading to Gili Air for some food. We’re taken to a restaurant inland and then have some time to walk around the island. This is the smallest island and much quieter than Gili T, but it also has similar sandy beaches with crystal clear blue waters. After a short walk, we then headed to the boat and back to Gili T.

Lombok – Waterfall Tour

Jean Maldonado — Fri, 20 Sep 2019 23:21:27 +0000

After several beach days on Gili T, I looked into some adventurous tours. We found a private tour to visit some waterfalls in Lombok on a day trip for 400,000 IDR¹ each. The speedboat left from the beach at 8.30 AM and it was a short 20-minute sail to the Lombok harbor on the northwest side of the island. At the harbor, we waved our tour ticket and someone came over to take us to our transportation. It took about 1 hour 30 minutes to reach the starting point of the trail to the waterfalls. The driver said he’ll be waiting there and we headed out with a guide who was waiting for us there.

First, we head to the Tiu Kelep waterfall which takes about 50 minutes to reach. On the way, we go past Sendang Gile waterfall and the guide says we’ll stop here on the way back. The trail starts by following the canal and is partly paved. When we reach a stream, the trail becomes a little more tricky and at some points, you have to climb over boulders and fallen tree trunks. There weren’t many people on the trail and when we arrived, there were only about a dozen people there. It’s a 2-platform waterfall where the lower waterfall is wide and the upper waterfall is narrow and tall. There are several photo spots around. You can also try and get closer to the waterfall but you get wet by a mist created from the water splashing down.

We spent about 20 minutes at Tiu Kelep waterfall before getting back on the trail to the Sedang Gile waterfall. It took about 20 minutes to reach the waterfall and there’s a rest area with benches. This waterfall is taller but you can also get close to it and have a shower beneath it. We also spent about 20 minutes here before heading back to the car. At the starting point of the trail, there’s a restaurant where we had some lunch. At around 2.15 PM we then begin the journey back to the harbor to catch our boat back to Gili T. We got there at around 3.45 PM and in the main pier, we asked where the next boat to Gili T leaves from. They pointed us to the beach area and we saw some people gathered around there waiting. The boat came at 4 PM and got back to Gili T by 4.20 PM.

Lizard Peninsula – Kynance Cove

Jean Maldonado — Sun, 25 Aug 2019 22:44:00 +0000

Going from Bristol, it takes around 4 hours to drive to Kynance Cove. From London, it’s a long drive taking up to 6 hours if you stop for a break. We went on a Bank Holiday weekend so when we arrived at around 1.15 PM, the car park close to Kynance Cove was full, so the staff directed us to an overflow car park a little further away. From the overflow car park, it is about a 20-minute walk to Kynance Cove if you take the direct path. We took diverted route off the main path via a trail that goes by the cliff and there are great seaside views along the way. Proceed with caution and stay clear from the edges as there are no barriers and you are very high up on the cliffs.

The trail goes down the rocks and leads to the small beach area. It’s a small pebble beach and there are many large rocks. Be careful walking on the rocks as they can be very slippery. There’s a cafe by the beach with a seating area. They sell Cornish Pasties, sandwiches, and other small bites as well as drinks. After chilling by the beach for a bit, we went for a walk on one of the cliffside trails. We set out at around 3 PM and walked for around an hour. We went by a couple of people on the trail, but not many. It’s a very scenic walk of the seaside and cliffs. At some points in the trail, you need to go down some rocks and then climb back up on the other side, so it can be a little tiring. We stuck to the cliffside for the views, but on the way back, we took a more direct route to Kynance Cove which took 45 minutes. We then headed back to the parking lot and onwards to our Airbnb¹ in Falmouth which was a 40-minute drive away.

Tintagel Castle – Mythical Scenic Site

Jean Maldonado — Sat, 24 Aug 2019 22:34:01 +0000

From Bristol, it was a 2-hour 40-minute drive to the north side of the Cornish coast. From London it would be a 4-hour 30-minute drive. We arrived at 1.30 PM and found a car park next to the ticket office. Tickets can be booked in advance for entry at a specific timeslot. Pre-booked tickets cost 13 GBP or free if you’re an English Heritage Member. Walk-up tickets cost 14.50 GBP¹ but you should pre-book during peak periods as it’s a very popular site. From the ticket office, you can follow the main path or take a trail that goes up to a viewpoint and then joins back to the main path before the bridge. We took the detour route via the viewpoint and it took about 10 minutes to get to the top. From here you get an elevated view of Tintagel and the new footbridge (finished on August 9th, 2019). It then takes about 5 minutes to walk down to the bridge. On the way you pass a control point where you have to present your ticket, so make sure you keep your ticket with you. Before the footbridge, visitors had to go down some steps to the beach and then up some steps on the other side. In the 13th century, a natural land bridge connected the mainland to the headland of Tintagel. However, erosion has caused the natural land bridge to collapse and now this new footbridge restores the original route to Tintagel.

Whilst crossing the bridge, you get great views of the surrounding landscape and the previous steps to cross to the other side. After crossing, we arrived at some ruins. There are information panels throughout giving information on the buildings that would have stood here. They also give a history of how Tintagel was used as a trading port during the age of the Roman Empire. Next, we followed the path to the top of the headland and found some rocks to sit on halfway through. The view from here is amazing of the hilly shores and beach down below. We continued down the path and arrived at the Gallos Sculpture representing King Arthur at the end of the headland island. It can be quite busy since everyone is taking pictures with the statue. We then found some boulders at the end of the headland to rest on, enjoying the seaside views.

At around 3 PM, we started heading back to go down to the beach. At the bridge, there are some steps on the right-hand side that go down to the beach. It’s a small sand and pebble beach with a rock island in the middle which people were jumping off. The water is freezing so we didn’t get in. There are two caves, one on either side of the beach. Going through the caves can be tricky since there are lots of rocks and boulders. They also fill up with water so keep an eye on the tide. We stayed at the beach until around 5 PM before heading back up and on one of the trails to a viewpoint. It takes about 20 minutes to follow the trail up to the cliff opposite Tintagel Castle. There are great views of Tintagel and the seaside from here. We stayed here until about 5.45 PM before heading back to the town to get some food. It was about 6.20 PM by the time we got back to the town and quite a lot of places were closing. We managed to find a cafe selling Cornish Pasties, so we grabbed a few of those and headed back to Bristol.