Thermal Baths – Maldo Travels

Papallacta – Natural Mountain Hot Springs

Jean Maldonado — Sat, 04 Jan 2020 18:12:00 +0000

From Quito, it can take between 1 hour and 1 hour 30 minutes depending on where you’re staying to get to Papallacta. Public transport is an option but it’s best to go by car or organized tour. The weather varies but normally when it’s winter in Quito between October and May, it tends to be summer in Papallacta. As you approach Papallacta, if the skies are clear you’ll get to see the snow-topped Volcano Antisana in the background. It’s a great sight and the highway is in good condition for a comfortable journey to Papallacta.

Once in Papallacta, there are a couple of hot spring pools in the small town. The ones near the bottom are cheaper and have fewer facilities. We went to the one at the top of the hill called Termas de Papallacta which is a resort and spa but has pools open to the public. There’s lots of parking available and a guarded entrance. Tickets cost 9 USD¹ each and give you access to several pools, changing rooms, showers, and restroom facilities. You can also rent lockers available from the shop/cafe. There are several indoor changing rooms throughout the site as well as restrooms and showers. This site is quite relaxed with what you wear in the pools. It was very sunny on the day we went, so a lot of people got into the pools with a t-shirt and hat to avoid getting sunburnt.

We got there at around 9.30 AM so it wasn’t that busy. We first headed to the pools on the upper level. There are gazebos with tables and chairs throughout and we managed to grab one of those spots. It’s a nice place to relax in the pools and chill on the chairs. Around the back on the upper level, there is also a polar pool. After getting out of the hot pools, some people would jump in the polar pool since its supposed to be good for your muscles. Later in the afternoon, we went to explore the lower pools. There is a large pool and the temperature here is a little lower than the ones on the upper level. There are then some more pools around the corner and these are very hot. One of them has a warning sign and I could just about dip my toe in it. We also found an indoor area below the large pool which had 2 waterfall-like showers with the hot spring water. We stayed until around 2.30 PM before heading down to the town to get some lunch. Once we were done, we then headed back to Quito.

Mendoza – Termas de Cacheuta

Jean Maldonado — Thu, 04 Oct 2018 21:49:58 +0000

Buses depart from the bus terminal in Mendoza. The thermal baths open at 10 AM and we took a taxi to the terminal from Plaza Independencia which cost 43 ARS². The next bus leaving towards Cacheuta was at 10.30 AM and a return ticket cost 84 ARS. We grabbed some breakfast at the station while waiting for the bus. Once the bus arrived, it left promptly and took about an hour to reach Cacheuta. From the bus stop, you walk down a road for about 5-10 minutes to get to the entrance. The entrance ticket costs 240 ARS for access to 3 levels of pools and they accept credit cards without additional fees. There’s a changing room with showers at the site and locker rentals cost 50 ARS which you can get from the shop. The first level has a couple of indoor pools with temperatures ranging between 28 and 43 degrees Celsius. One of the pools has hydro massaging bubbles which are nice to relax in. The second level is outdoors going down some steps. The water temperature here is also between 28 and 43 degrees Celsius and there was also a polar pool with cold water.

The great thing about this level was of the landscape views from the balcony like pools. There was also an indoor room with streams of hot water falling like a shower. The third level is going down some more steps. On this level, there are some more pools, a lazy river, 2 water slides, and a 10-meter water fountain. The water is much colder here and the level is aimed mainly for children. Overall, the water park is a great place to relax for a couple of hours enjoying the peaceful mountain view. Once we were done bathing in the pools, we got changed and left our swimwear to dry in the sun for a while. We then went for a walk around the area whilst we waited for the bus back to Mendoza. The bus stop was opposite where we were dropped off and the bus arrived around 3.45 PM.

San Pedro de Atacama – Geysers El Tatio

Jean Maldonado — Fri, 28 Sep 2018 14:06:13 +0000

We got an early morning tour that cost 17,000 CLP³ which included hotel pick up, transportation, a guide, and breakfast. The tour bus picked us up from our hotel at around 6 AM. From San Pedro de Atacama, it takes about an hour and a half to reach El Tatio. It’s a steep increase in altitude from 2400 meters to over 4300 meters above sea level. We arrive at around 7.30 AM and the sun has only just finished coming up behind the surrounding mountains. At the entrance, we pay the 10,000 CLP which includes access to the thermal bath. At this altitude and in these early hours, outside temperatures are around -8 degrees Celsius. So make sure to take very warm clothing and footwear. Some people came wrapped in blankets since it was so cold. It’s also quite tiring to walk around so don’t rush through the fields to avoid getting altitude sickness.

The guide gathers the group around and gives some information on the geysers. He mentions the temperatures of the geysers are around 89 degrees Celsius. As you get close to some of the geysers, you can feel the heat on the floor. You can warm your hands up by just touching the ground. The guide takes you around for a bit at the start, and then he gives you some time to explore on your own. There are geysers of all sizes throwing hot gasses into the air and some even spewing boiling water. Overall, we had about an hour to go throughout the site before meeting back at the tour bus in the parking lot. A lot of people came back earlier though since it was so cold.

Once everyone was back on the bus, it was a quick 5-minute drive to the site’s thermal bath. At the parking lot, the guide pulled out a foldaway table to have breakfast. He gave out sandwiches and laid out some thermos containers with hot coffee and hot water to make tea. Once we were done with breakfast, we were given about half an hour to bathe in the hot thermal bath so make sure you take swimwear and a towel if you plan to get in. There are changing rooms and shower facilities at the site. We had our swimming gear, but it was still extremely cold so we decided not to get in. Instead, we found a trail that goes around the area which takes you to see some more geysers. We were done and back on the bus to head back at 9.30 AM. On the way back, the landscape in the daylight is beautiful. We make a quick stop for pictures and the guide talks about the flora and fauna in the area. As we continue, we make a final stop at the small village of Machuca. There’s a stall selling drinks and snacks but the interesting thing here is a street vendor selling grilled llama skewers. Most people feel weird about trying it, but I tried some and it was an interesting taste. We then head back to San Pedro de Atacama arriving at around 11.30 AM.

Arequipa – Colca Canyon

Jean Maldonado — Wed, 12 Sep 2018 23:20:00 +0000

Following our adventure-filled stay at Cusco, we took an overnight bus to Arequipa which departed at 8.30 PM and arrived around 7 AM. Tickets for the more comfortable VIP seat that reclines further back cost 60 PEN⁴ each. The Cusco terminal also has a usage fee of 1.40 PEN. If you take a taxi/Uber⁵ to the terminal, then the taxi entrance fee is 1.30 PEN. It’s a fairly smooth ride to Arequipa and we were able to get some sleep overnight. Our hotel in Arequipa was next to the Santa Catalina Monastery. We took a 15 minute Uber from the bus terminal which cost 10 PEN.

The City and Finding Tours

Our room wasn’t ready so we dropped off our bags at the hotel and then went to the Plaza de Armas to look for tours. A visit to the Colca Canyon was a must for us and we were presented with several options. A 1-day, 2-day or 3-day tour. The 1-day tour seemed too rushed and the 3-day tour looked great, but we wanted to leave our third day in Arequipa for another activity. So we went for the 2-day tour with a trekking option. For our third day, we decided to do a rafting tour. Once we reserved the tours, we went for a walk around the city and found the central market so we had some lunch there. We then went to the Aventura Mall to grab some snacks and water for the 2-day Colca Canyon tour. At around 3 PM, we headed back to the hotel to get our room. We got some rest before heading out for a quick walk in the evening. Since we were going to be picked up around 3 AM the next day, we went to bed early to rest up before the trek. The city of Arequipa is quite small and beautiful. It also has quite a good nightlife which we explored when we returned from the Colca Canyon tour.

Colca Canyon - Day 1

We were picked up from our hotel at around 3 AM. The tour bus then made stops at other hotels to pick up other people before making our way to the Colca Canyon. We stopped at a small town for breakfast around 8 AM and reached the viewpoint at Cruz del Condor at around 9.30 AM. At this viewpoint, you get the chance to see some Andean condors in flight. You’ll need a camera with a telephoto lens zoom to get a good close up picture. If you don’t get lucky enough to catch some condors, the viewpoint offers great landscape views of the canyon. After about 30 minutes at the viewpoint, the tour bus then takes us to the starting point of the trek which is about a 20-minute drive from the viewpoint. Day 1 of the trek is pretty straightforward since its all downhill. In total it’s about 3-hours 30-minutes of trekking and everyone walks together with the guide in front. The guide breaks the walks up into 20-30 minutes each and gives info on the canyon and vegetation in the breaks. At around 1 PM, we made a stop for lunch.

The lunch spot is shortly after reaching the bottom of the canyon and crossing the river. We had about 1-hour 30-minutes for lunch before continuing to the oasis lodge. In this last leg of the trek, there is a small stall where you can buy snacks and water. At the end of the trek, you cross the river again and the oasis lodge is a short walk from there. We reached the lodge at around 4.30 PM. Rooms were allocated based on the groups we came in. If you came solo, they’ll pair you up with another solo traveler. The guide then tells us dinner will be served at 6 PM so until then, we have time to shower, rest, and use the pool. The rooms were quite basic and there is no power socket, so make sure you take a portable charger. There are 2 showers and these are shared by everyone so we took a shower before resting or heading to the pool. Also, there are no lights in the showers, so take a flashlight. The pool has a bar and some seating area. The water was a little chilly so we didn’t get in and just rested by the pool for a bit. At 6 PM we then moved to the dining area for dinner. After dinner, the guide gave us instructions for the next day to be ready at 5 AM to begin the trek up the canyon. He said some flashlights were available but we could also use our phones. He also mentioned that this trek was a lot more difficult, and if you’re worried you can’t make it up, you could hire a mule. After the talk, you can head for bed or stay until around 8-9 PM in the dining area which had lights. We stuck around and played some card games with other travelers. Once the lights were out, we then went to bed to rest up for the early morning trek.

Colca Canyon - Day 2

It was quite a chilly night at the lodge and we were up at around 4.30 AM to get ready to leave at 5 AM. We waited at the meeting point for about 10 minutes for everyone to turn up. The guide said it would take about 3 hours to trek up and for this one, we could go at our own pace since there is only one route and can’t get lost. The trek up starts at around 2100 meters ending at 3200 meters and is exhausting. It’s quite cold in the early hours but as the sun comes out, it starts to get hot. The sun comes up at around 6 AM and you get great views of the canyon at sunrise. Once at the top, there’s an area to rest and sit under some shade. We waited for about 20-30 minutes for the rest of the group to arrive. Next, it’s a short 20-minute walk to the town of Cabanaconde for breakfast. Along the way, we come across a viewpoint for some pre-Inca terraces.

Once we’re done with breakfast, the tour bus then takes us to the hot springs near the town of Yanque. Entrance to the hot springs costs 15 PEN. This is optional though and you can choose to chill by the river. The river water is freezing whilst the water in the thermal baths can reach 38 degrees. From the thermal baths, there’s access to the river for people to jump in after getting out of the hot springs. We’re given about an hour here before heading for lunch in Chivay where we’re taken to a buffet-style restaurant. This is optional and you can choose to go elsewhere. The buffet cost 30 PEN each and was very good. Next, we begin the journey back to Arequipa and make a stop at the viewpoint ‘Mirador de Los Andes‘. This is a viewpoint of all the surrounding mountains and volcanos. You can also take a picture with llamas/alpacas that the locals bring here. We arrived back at Arequipa at around 5 PM and the tour bus leaves everyone at their hotels or the Plaza de Armas.

Baños – Pailón Del Diablo

Jean Maldonado — Sun, 08 Jul 2018 14:23:00 +0000

There are a number of activities and tourist sites within the vicinity of Baños but a must-see is the Pailón del Diablo; a deafeningly powerful waterfall that literally takes your breath away. The waterfall is only 30 minutes away from Baños by car. There is also the option of a bike tour, however, I don’t really recommend this as there is no dedicated bike lane on the roads which can get quite narrow. The Chivas tours include this spot as one of the destinations and are a fun way to get around. There are two options for visiting the Pailón del Diablo, one is ‘La Isla del Pailón’ that is privately owned, and the other is ‘La Grieta al Cielo’ which is run by the locals. The former has a 2 USD⁶ entrance fee and is a trail to a wooden bridge near the top of the waterfall yielding a panoramic view from above. The latter costs 1.50 USD and is a trail that goes right down to the waterfall with viewing balconies, a wooden bridge with a panoramic view, and a cave that leads up to the waterfall. Both times that I hace gone, I’ve gone to ‘La Grieta del Cielo’ and did not regret it.

It takes about 25 minutes to walk down the trail. The entrance fee is charged at the bottom and they sell water ponchos so you can assume you will get wet. The weather is nice and warm so I opted not to get one. Although wet is an understatement, you will get soaked from head to toe. Once you’ve paid and walked up a cobbled path, you will arrive at the main balcony and into a mist of water. Then you have the option of either walking down some steps to the lower balcony or walking up through a cave towards the balconies near the top of the waterfall. You’ll notice that there are not many people that go to the lower balcony, and this is because it can be rather terrifying. As you walk down the steps, the mist gradually becomes a strong spray of water. Once at the bottom of the balcony, you will find yourself gasping for air as the water crashes against the balcony. When this happens, many people run back up the stairs (myself included) as you get the sensation that the force of the water will pull you into the river. Although initially frightening, it’s an exhilarating experience and somewhat refreshing once you’ve gathered the courage to make it all the way down.

Now traversing the cave is a little easier. The cave is quite low so you’ll have to crouch and watch your head. A lot of people hit their head and no helmets are available for rental at the site. A lamp is not necessary since sunlight comes in from the sides. It takes about 5-10 minutes to crawl through the cave, depending on how many people there are. The balconies near the top are smaller so you may have to wait for people to come down first. It’s also slippery so you have to be cautious as you make your way. Once you reach the balcony, you can feel the vibrations generated by the immense power of the thunderous waterfall. The waterfall itself is not even an arm’s length away and you can touch it if you dare. It’s also possible to head up a couple more stairs to a balcony which goes behind the waterfall. Walking up these stairs is like walking through a shower with mighty water pressure. Once you get through, you’ll encounter the roaring sound of massive amounts of water pounding down all around you. A surreal experience of nature which can be violent yet peaceful at the same time. When done with admiring the waterfall at such a close distance, you can return back down to the entrance and then use your ticket to access the wooden bridge. This structure crosses the river where you’ll be able to appreciate the magnitude of the waterfall from afar.

Baños – Nature and Adrenaline

Jean Maldonado — Sat, 07 Jul 2018 13:15:51 +0000

A three-hour drive south from the Ecuadorian capital of Quito, Baños de Agua Santa is a small town en route to the Ecuadorian rainforest. It is at this point where you notice the change in climate and terrain as it becomes warmer in a mountainous landscape rich in vegetation. The route is very scenic where you will pass by several volcanos through a region that is known as ‘La Avenida de Los Volcanes’ (Volcano Avenue). Given that it is a clear day, you may catch a glimpse of these magnificent monuments of nature that usually hide behind the clouds. For a tasty treat, you can make a stop on the highway at one of the many stalls/shops selling the nationally famous ‘Helados de Salcedo’. These are ice creams with different natural fruit juice flavors layered horizontally. Another city on the way to Baños is Ambato; recognized for their bread and traditional rabbit dish. Ambato also has a bus terminal which connects to Baños and also offers tours to Volcan Chimborazo – which at almost 6300 meters, is the highest in Ecuador.

The town of Baños itself is small with a marketplace, plaza, a small basilica, and hot water spring all within a 5-minute walking distance of each other. Despite being a small town, it also has a lively nightlife with several bars and clubs. There are also several tour agencies that provide tours in a unique party-like bus called Chivas stopping at several destinations. The hot spring is rather special in Baños and is embodied in the town’s name since Baños de Agua Santa translates to Baths of Holy Water. The town is a well-visited pilgrimage destination for devout Catholics as the water from the hot springs has been associated with miraculous curative events. Ultimately, Baños is a frequented tourist spot for both foreign nationals and Ecuadorians – especially those from the capital.

Casa del Arbol

Home to the famed swing at the end of the world, this spot is about 20 minutes away from Baños and also part of the Chivas tour. Entrance costs 1 USD¹ to access the site which has a garden, 6 swings, and a restaurant cafe. Located high up on a mountain, it has a great view of Volcan Tungurahua provided it’s a clear day. The busiest 2 swings are the ones next to the iconic tree house. Perspective is what makes the great pictures seen on the internet. You have to time the photo with the volcano in the background and at an angle that makes it look like your swinging off the end of the mountain. Do try to get here early as it can get extremely busy. If you get there around sundown, you may get less time on the swing as the operators try to get through everyone by the time it gets dark. There is also a queue to go up the treehouse which has a great view of the landscape and volcano. The weather is warm during the day and gets quite cold as the sun begins to set so bring a warm jumper or coat. Also, a great national hot drink to have in the cold is canelazo which is a national liquor and cinnamon based alcoholic drink.

Cascada Machay

One of the waterfalls near Baños which is about 35 minutes away is the Cascada Machay which is on the same route as Pailón del Diablo just 5 minutes further. The trail is maintained by the locals and entrance costs 1 USD. It takes about 15-20 minutes to walk down a scenic dirt path to get to the viewpoint. Machay is a tall waterfall with a great landscape surrounding it. You can get closer to it by going down to the rocks. Doing so will guarantee you getting wet and the rocks are quite slippery so proceed with caution. It’s a great waterfall and you can go further downstream for a splash, but swimming near the waterfall is not permitted.

Other Activities

There is much more to do around Baños to get in touch with nature like the destinations mentioned above. In addition to these, there are also high adrenaline activities such as zip lining, rock climbing, rafting, bungee jumping to name a few. It’s one of my favorite places in Ecuador that I always go back to, and every time I go there’s something new to try out.