Sunrise – Maldo Travels

Mount Ijen – Blue Fire Crater

Jean Maldonado — Mon, 23 Sep 2019 21:36:52 +0000

When looking online, the cheapest tour to hike to the Mount Ijen Crater was around 120 USD¹. We decided to book tours once we arrived at Kuta since it’s usually cheaper to buy once your there. We found a 1-day private tour that cost 1,500,000 IDR² which was around 105 USD at the time of writing. Our driver picked us up from the hotel at around 6 PM and we headed to Gilmanuk Harbor on the western tip of Bali. The drive took around 5 hours making a stop at some stalls on the highway about halfway through. Once we reach the harbor, the driver becomes our guide and buys our tickets for a ferry to Ketapang. We took the 11.30 PM ferry and it takes about 1 hour 30 minutes to cross the Bali strait. At Ketapang harbor, our driver/guide then takes us to the Jeep that’s waiting for us with another driver and Ijen guide. Note that the clocks have gone back 1 hour so it’s still around midnight when we arrive. It’s then about a 1-hour 30-minute drive to the base camp at Bumi Perkemahan Paltuding. In these early hours, it’s pitch black and freezing cold outside. We take refuge in a cafe to get a hot drink and some food before beginning our hike.

At around 1.45 AM we set out with some flashlights to climb Mount Ijen. It’s a dirt trail and starts with a gradual initial ascent which gets steeper. We took a couple of breaks and took these opportunities to look up at the starlit sky which was a wonderful sight. After about 40 minutes, we reach a refuge for a 10-minute break. There are some benches to rest on and you can buy some drinks/snacks at a stall. We then continue for another 25 minutes to the top of the crater. Once at the top, our guide shows us how to put on our gas masks to protect us from the sulfur clouds. It’s then about a 30-minute walk down the crater. The trail here becomes gravel/sandy and is much steeper so it can be quite slippery if you’re wearing trainers. Pay attention and give way to the miners climbing up the crater since they can be carrying around 80 KG on their shoulders. Once at the bottom of the crater, the sulfur smell is quite strong even with the gas masks on. You can see the miners at work here and they also have a stall selling carved sulfur rocks as souvenirs. It is here where you can see the famous blue fire burning down the side of the crater. We got down there at 3.40 AM and there was already quite a big crowd. It’s an amazing sight and it hides behind sulfur clouds which makes it tricky to get a picture that captures its beauty. We stayed for about 15 minutes before heading to the top of the mountain for sunrise.

We started to see some light at around 4.30 AM and we got to our sunrise spot at about 4.50 AM. It’s still quite cold and there are some stone structures to take refuge in while waiting for the sun to come up. One of the guides got a little bonfire going in one of them and people gathered around to warm up. As the sun comes up, it’s a beautiful sight but a bit of an awkward spot as there’s a massive mountain that stands in the way of the sunrise. We stayed until around 5.20 AM and then started our journey back down.

On the way down, we made several stops to take pictures of the lake but it was very cloudy from the gases. However, the view of the surrounding landscape is breathtaking as you can see mountain peaks above a seabed of clouds. We made a stop at a restroom which you can find at the rim of the crater before making the descent. Then, we began our descent at around 6 AM, making a couple stops for pictures of the landscape we had not seen on the way up in the darkness. Along the way, we saw miners offering to take people in their carts. The way down was much quicker and we got back to the car park at around 7 AM.

After getting changed, we get back in the jeep to head out on the 1-hour 30-minute drive back to the Ketapang Harbor. We took the 9 AM ferry back to Gilmanuk harbor. With the 1-hour time difference, we reached the harbor at 11.30 AM and then set out on our 5-hour drive back to Kuta. We made a stop for lunch at a highway buffet-style restaurant which was probably the most authentic Balinese meal I had. We got back to our hotel at around 5 PM and went to get some sleep to rest from the exhausting but unforgettable experience.

Angkor Wat Sunrise Tour

Jean Maldonado — Mon, 27 May 2019 22:44:00 +0000

This sunrise tour included transportation and a guide for 10 USD³ each. It’s a very early start with the tour agency picking us up from our hotel at 4.40 AM. We were taken in a 4×4 buggy to the main road where the tour bus was waiting for us. Once everyone had arrived, it was then a 10-minute drive to the ticket hall for the Angkor Archaeological Park. Some people had already been on other tours so they already had a multi-day ticket. Those who needed to buy went with the tour guide who helped everyone purchase their tickets. Since we had another full-day tour the next day, we purchased the 3-day ticket for 62 USD. They take your picture at the ticket office which is printed on your ticket to ensure you don’t sell the ticket to someone else. Also, this is the only place you can buy tickets for Angkor, so be wary of your hotel or any tour agency offering to sell Angkor tickets. Once everyone bought their tickets, we headed to Angkor Wat which was about 5 minutes away. We arrived at the car park at around 5.20 AM. By now there was daylight but the sun was yet to come up above the temple. From the car park, you cross over a floating bridge and then walk about 5 minutes towards the temple.

We arrive at 2 ponds and everyone is gathered around the pond on the right side. This is because the sunlight first hits the pond on the right side. We went to the pond on the left first to take some pictures and then joined everyone at the pond on the right side. The sunrise was finished at around 6.20 AM and we re-grouped with the guide to head up to the temple. We start by walking the perimeter where there are many carved murals. The guide explains the murals and gives a history of who built the temple as well as its purpose. When we get to the back of the temple, we walk inside into the main square. From here, we get a great view of the temple, perfect for pictures. At around 7.45 AM, the guide says we can walk into the main temple and tells us to be back down at the main square by 8.15 AM. Inside the temple, you may come across some monks who look after the temple. As the complex is a sacred site, appropriate clothing should be worn. Since the weather is so hot and humid, the site officials are fine with shorts and t-shirts as long as knees and shoulders aren’t visible. The views from the top of the temple are incredible and the detail in the stonework is amazing. After walking around and taking pictures, we re-grouped with the guide.

At this point, we asked him if that was the end of the tour and he said yes and that they were going to stop somewhere for breakfast. We wanted more time at the site so we stayed and went our separate way. We later found out that the guide meant it was the end of the tour of Angkor Wat only. After breakfast, the tour was going to take us to Angkor Thom and then Ta Phrom. After we split from the group, we made our way to Angkor Thom. We exited through the car park where there are some street vendors. It was getting very hot so we bought some water there. We then walked north along the main road for 15 minutes and stopped at the temple of Phnom Bakheng. It was currently being restored but still open to visitors and it was a 10-minute walk uphill. Once at the temple, there are some great views and we found out that it’s a popular spot to catch the sunset. We then continued north on the main road and reached the South Gate. Next to this gate, you can find a smaller temple called Baksei Chamkrong. It was a quick stop here for pictures before we crossed the bridge decorated with carved stones that goes to the South Gate.

It was then another 15-minute walk to reach Angkor Thom. On the way, there were many monkeys and we crossed paths with 2 elephants. Once at Angkor Thom, we found some shade at the temple of Bayon and rested for about 30 minutes before exploring the temple ruins. This temple had many more towers than Angkor Wat although they were much smaller. What was interesting about this temple is that the many towers were shaped like the Buddha’s face. After about 10 minutes of roaming around, we headed to Baphuon. This temple has a long pathway leading up to it and several high steps to get to the top. You get some great views of the surroundings from the top. We rested here for about 15 minutes before heading to the exit which goes around the back of the temple. At the back, there is the face of a sideways Buddha on the temple walls. There are some information panels here explaining the difficulties of restoring this part of the temple.

The trail curves around the back and takes you to Phimeanakas. This temple has a pyramid-like shape with several animal figures decorating its edges. There is also a rectangular pond next to the temple. From here, we planned to start heading west towards Ta Phrom. However, someone who we thought was a park official said there was another temple a little further north. We decided to check it out and the person followed us giving us information on things we came across. We found this quite bizarre and realized he was trying to impose himself as our guide. We told him we didn’t want a guide and he wanted us to pay him for what he showed us which was practically nothing so we refused. It was a very uncomfortable experience but he left us alone. We continued west rather than going to the temple the person mentioned which was quite a big detour. After about 10 minutes walking west, we came across the Terrace of the Elephants. We walked around here for a bit and then continued to North Khleang.

We went through the ruins at North Khleang and then found the main road which goes to Victory Gate. After about 10 minutes down this road, we saw a sign for East Top Temple. It was a 5-minutes off the main road and not worth the detour since it’s quite small and mostly in ruins. Once we got back to the main road, it was a 5-minute walk to Victory Gate. This gate is shaped like the Buddha’s head and you can climb up the side to get some pictures. We took a 15-minute break here before crossing the bridge. At the other end of the bridge, there were 2 more temples. Thommanon to the north side of the bridge and Chau Say Tevoda on the south side. We took some quick pictures and then continued on the main road to Ta Keo.

This was a large temple with high walls and very steep steps. We took some rest here and after about 15-minutes, I saw grey clouds coming in. I quickly went around the temple to take pictures, and after about 10 minutes, it started to pour down. The amount of rain was incredible, and the ditch around the perimeter of the temple quickly filled up with water. It didn’t look like the rain was going to go away any time soon so we crossed over to the main road to see if there were any tuk-tuks. We waited for about 10 minutes and didn’t see any tuk-tuks pass by and since we had raincoats and a waterproof backpack, we decided to walk over to Ta Phrom which is a bigger temple.

It took about 15 minutes to walk there and we took refuge under the arc by the entrance since there were still no tuk-tuks. At this point, we were about to walk back to the main entrance and went to check the parking lot for tuk-tuks once more. There were only tour buses here but luckily a tuk-tuk came by and offered to take us back downtown for 5 USD. We agreed and it took about 35 minutes to reach Pub Street. We went to grab some food in the area before heading back to the hotel to get some rest.

Siem Reap – Floating Village Tour

Jean Maldonado — Sun, 26 May 2019 22:48:00 +0000

On the day we arrived, we bought an afternoon Floating Village tour for 12.50 USD¹ each. We were told to be at the tour agency at 1.30 PM to wait for the tour bus which arrived at around 1.45 PM. We were the first pick up and the bus then went on to pick up the other passengers from their hotels. Having spent over 16 hours on flights, we were knackered so slept through most of the ride, other than when the guide was giving information. It took about 30 minutes to reach a stop with a view of the rice fields which were dry at the time. It was also a stop for restrooms and snacks. We then continued onwards for another 30 mins towards the Tonle Sap Lake to the floating village of Kampong Phluk.

The month of May is the beginning of the wet season so when we got there it was dry. The houses are high up on stilts since in the wet season the water level rises around 10 meters. We walked through the village and we came across a group of ladies asking for donations for the local school. They followed us throughout which made everyone in the group very uncomfortable. On the walk, we also came across a temple in the middle of the village. When we reached the end of the village, we got on a motor-canoe and headed into Tonle Sap Lake.

It takes about 15 minutes on the motor-canoe to get to a floating restaurant in the middle of the lake where we stayed for the ‘sunset’. We got there at around 4.30 PM and stayed until 5.45 PM. However, the sunset hadn’t actually started yet. We got back to the tour bus at around 6 PM and began making our way back to Siem Reap. It started getting dark at around 6.30 PM and we arrived at Siem Reap at around 7 PM. They offered to drop us off downtown which we agreed to. We walked around the Angkor Night Market area for a bit and got some street food. We then headed to the hotel to rest since we needed to be up at 3.30 AM for our Angkor Wat Sunrise Tour.

Salar de Uyuni Tour – Day 4

Jean Maldonado — Tue, 25 Sep 2018 20:14:00 +0000

On this final day, it’s a very early morning 5 AM start to leave in time to catch the sunrise. Our sunrise spot is at Isla Incahuasi and it takes about 30 minutes to get there. The entrance fee costs 30 BOB⁴ and we got there at around 6.10 AM. The sun was already rising by this time so we quickly headed up to a viewpoint to catch the rest of the sunrise. We spent about 40 minutes watching the sunrise and exploring the island. The island is mainly made of rocks and has many cactus plants scattered around. Once we were done walking around the island, we went back down where our guide was waiting for us with breakfast. There are several tables and chairs outside the island entrance where we had breakfast. During breakfast the guide gave us some more info on the salt flats, telling us that it used to be a lake that dried out approximately 10,000 years ago. He also said that the white salt we see on top is just one layer resulting from the last lake that dried out. There are a total of 11 layers which means 11 lakes have gone extinct here. After breakfast, the guide said we could walk around the island whilst he put everything away.

We then left at around 8.40 AM to go deeper into the salt flats for a photo session. We stopped at around 9.30 AM in the middle of the salt flats. Other than the odd mountain in the distant horizon, all you could see was the white salt terrain. The view was truly incredible and great for pictures. The guide took out a toy dinosaur for some pictures, playing around with perspective. We spent about 30 minutes taking pictures before continuing to the first salt hotel. The salt hotel is no longer operational since it was closed down due to being built illegally in a protected site. So now you can just wander around inside to see what it was like. At this site, there is also the Plaza de las Banderas where you’ll find flags from all over the world. There’s also a Dakar Monument nearby a short walk away. Once we were done walking around and taking pictures, we continue across the salt flats to our lunch stop in Colchani.

On the way, we first pass by the Ojos del Salar which is where water from underground rivers below the salt flats surface. The guide stops quickly for us to take pictures but we don’t get out. Continuing a little further down, we come across the Montones de Sal. These are piles of salt which are extracted and taken to the nearby town of Colchani to be processed. Again it’s just a quick pause for pictures and then continuing to Colchani. We arrive in Colchani at around 11.30 AM. It’s a small town and the guide says we can walk around the arts and crafts market while we wait for lunch. He mentioned that the souvenirs here were cheaper than in Uyuni so we bought a couple here. We were done with lunch by around 12.30 PM and continued to the last site – the Train Cemetery. It was a quick 30-minute drive there and we pass Uyuni to get there. We spend about 20 minutes here walking around, taking pictures of the abandoned train skeletons. Some have pretty cool graffiti designs on them. Once we’re done with this, the guide takes us to the Uyuni city center to drop us off near the bus terminal. He shows us where we can get bus tickets to our next destination – Calama, Chile. We just missed the last bus as we saw it pull away, so we had to look for accommodation and booked the first bus out the next day.