Nature Reserve – Maldo Travels

Cunuyacu – Waterfall and Hot Spring

Jean Maldonado — Wed, 06 Jan 2021 08:47:00 +0000

Located on the foothills of the volcanic twin mountains Los Ilinizas, the waterfall and hot spring of Cunuyacu are about a 2-hour drive away from Quito. These destinations are less frequented by tourists and on an off-the-beaten-path route. To get there, you first need to get to the Ecological Reserve which can be accessed via a dirt road in San Juan de Pastocalle after coming off the Panamericana highway. There is a large tourist sign at the entrance of the dirt road so it should be easy to spot. It had rained the day before so the road was quite muddy. We went in an SUV-type vehicle and managed to get through most of the way without any issues. There was just one part where there was quite a large rock where the passengers had to get off for the car to make it up.

We made it to a car park at around 7.30 AM, and although we could proceed further, we decided to leave the cars there since the road wasn’t getting any better. We then started hiking up, and after a couple of minutes, we came across the entrance that had a large welcome sign. The road at this point was cordoned off to block vehicles access. There was also a house here and I had read up that there was someone who lives in the area that provides transportation. However, it was quite early and no one seemed to be in, so we went across the barrier and continued hiking up. From this point, the dirt road got much worse with large holes and rocks. Only a 4×4 vehicle would be able to make it up, but for a hike the road is fine. It took us about an hour to reach a viewpoint which was also the start of the trail.

First, the trail descends to the river where there is a small wooden footbridge. It was quite muddy so take care when going down the trail as some parts are very slippery. After crossing the bridge, the trail splits with one route leading to the waterfall and the other going to the hot spring. The trail has signposts along the way so you won’t get lost. We first followed signs for the waterfall and we got there in about 10 minutes. The waterfall itself isn’t too big, but the highlight is its red/orange color. The color is due to the rocks that have been tinted red by volcanic minerals. The color of the water itself is clear and it doesn’t give off a bad odor that volcanic minerals tend to produce. We were able to get close to the waterfall which made for some great pictures. To get close to the waterfall you have to cross the stream which has some slippery rocks. Water shoes or wellies would be great but not necessary. We were the only ones there and we didn’t run into any other groups at this time. We spent about 20 minutes taking pictures here before continuing to the hot spring.

We first turned back and walked along the trail to return to the footbridge. Then we followed the other route that leads up to the hot spring. Along the trail, we passed through a mystical forest of Polylepis trees. In Ecuador, this tree is nicknamed the ‘Paper Tree’ due to its appearance of the bark peeling off like layers of paper. This trail is a little longer and we reached the hot spring in about 20 minutes. Once again, we were the only group there and had the place to ourselves. The hot spring is a small natural pool where they’ve stacked some sandbags to contain more water. The water temperature itself is warm, not hot, but it’s more refreshing after the hike. You can smell the minerals here, but it is not off-putting. The highlight is the view since the pool is like a balcony on the mountainside looking over the landscape. The weather wasn’t great so we didn’t get to see much of the neighboring mountains, but it was still a great place to relax. We stayed here for about an hour before it started to rain, so we started heading back before a downpour.

It was a wonderful experience abundant in nature and great for a day trip from the capital city. The hike itself was fairly easy and only tiring due to being at an altitude of over 4000 meters. If you go later in the day, the transportation service would save you the 1-hour initial hike. It was also great to have the place to ourselves without having to deal with tourist crowds.

Otavalo & Peguche – Culture & Nature

Jean Maldonado — Sat, 19 Dec 2020 21:09:00 +0000

The popular tourist town of Otavalo is only a 2-hour drive away from Quito. There is also regular public transport since it is a well-traveled route with buses leaving from the North Terminal of Carcelén. It’s a nice scenic drive along the winding Andean mountains; especially when passing the lake at San Pablo which lies next to the great volcano Imbabura.

We arrived at the Parque Simon Bolivar which is a small central square. There are several paid parking lots in the area and after parking our car, we walked to the crafts market. The people of Otavalo are primarily indigenous and have integrated with modern society. You’ll see lots of people walking around in their traditional clothes, and the main attraction in the town is the crafts market. The crafts market is only a couple of blocks from the park where we left our car, and there are many crafts stalls on the sidewalks on the way. Some roads are also closed to vehicle traffic so it’s safer to walk to the market. The busiest days are the weekends when the majority of the vendors open their stalls. The market is still open on weekdays though so it’s still worth a visit. You’ll find many different products for sale and Otavalo is well known for its high-quality textiles; especially the ponchos. There are also many restaurants in the area to get a taste of some of the region’s cuisine.

After going for a stroll around the market, you can head to a nearby waterfall at Peguche. It’s only a 10-minute drive from the market and there’s a car park on-site. Public transport is also available and departs from the park. Another option is to hail a taxi from anywhere in town which will cost around 2 USD¹ each way. The final option is the 40-minute walk since it’s not too far and also a nice walk through the town. Between the car park and the entrance, there are a couple of shops and stalls selling snacks, drinks, and souvenirs. There is also an Incan solar calendar structure which is accessible for free.

The entry ticket for the waterfall costs only 0.50 USD for access to the trails and spaces along the way. It’s then a short 10-15 minute walk along the trail which is very well maintained. The surrounding area is very green like a rainforest which has lots of different paths. There are toilet facilities and we also passed a camping area. Further down the trail, there was a path that headed toward a natural pool. There were also small bridges that crossed the river to an area with some huts. It looked like these huts were restaurants since they were playing music, but they also looked like lodging. The trail splits at one point, with one path going to the lower part of the waterfall and the other path going up to a viewpoint. We first went to the lower part of the waterfall and crossed a wooden bridge to get there. The waterfall isn’t very high, but the water comes crashing down with enough force to create a gust of mist. You can get very close to the waterfall, but be prepared to get very wet. I managed to climb up on one of the large boulders to get a picture. The water is a little cold, but bearable with the hot weather that we had when we went. We then went back across the bridge and up the other trail to the viewpoint of the waterfall. There is a small hut there that looks out towards the waterfall.

On the way back along the trail, we noticed another path that went up the other side of the hill. We followed the trail up and this one goes higher than the one at the viewpoint. We got to a point where there was a warning sign and continued past it to the top. The trail past this point gets very narrow and can be scary if you’re afraid of heights. This trail goes over the waterfall and you get an amazing view of the town with a mountainous background. We took some rest here before heading back down and back to the car park.

Mojanda Cajas – Andean Lakes

Jean Maldonado — Sat, 19 Dec 2020 11:25:00 +0000

Some amount of preparation is necessary to visit the lakes at Mojanda Cajas as there are several routes. The main route is the one that has a road coming from Otavalo. This route is a cobblestone road that arrives at the main lake, so it’s easily accessible by all vehicles types. If you’re coming from Otavalo then this is the better option, however, if you’re making your way from Quito, this route adds another 30-40 minutes to your journey. The alternative route is a dirt road from Tabacundo. Given this, it’s not suitable for small vehicle types and if it has been raining, only 4×4 cars will be able to make it up. So if you plan to come from Quito, make sure to check the weather.

Since this place is quite remote, there is no public transport to the lake. Therefore, you first need to take public transportation to Otavalo or Tabacundo, and then look for a taxi service. There are also pickup truck services in these areas which may be more suitable. When booking the transportation service, you should agree on either a time for them to wait for you before heading back, or ask them to return to pick you up if you plan to be there a while. Otherwise, it’ll be a long walk back as it is kilometers of uninhabited landscapes.

We went via the Tabacundo route and it takes about an hour to get to Tabacundo from Quito. From Tabacundo, it then takes about another hour along the dirt road to reach the lakes. It had not been raining recently when we went, but certain parts of the road were very muddy. We were in a small SUV-type vehicle that only struggled in one uphill part where the passengers had to get off. Throughout the drive, you get to enjoy some amazing landscapes of rocky mountains and green valleys. Towards the end of the journey, we managed to spot the lake from a distance. We came across a viewpoint where we got off to take some pictures. We then continued another 15 minutes downhill to reach the car park by the lake.

Next to the car park, there is a small area with some cabins that can be rented out and a small garden area. We got there at around 9 AM and it looked like there was no one around so we had the whole lake to ourselves. At the end of the garden, there is a small pier that you can walk on to and get some great pictures. It was cloudy when we got there so the water looked quite grey. However, the sun did come out for a bit and the water looked much clearer. No matter the weather, the surrounding landscape is amazing. It’s also possible to go in the water, but be warned, the water is freezing cold. We managed to go in knee height for a couple of seconds before running back out. We spent about 30 minutes at the lake before it got cloudy again, so we decided to head down just in case it started to rain. If the weather was better or if we had been camping, there is a map at the site with several trails in the area.

Salar de Uyuni Tour – Day 3

Jean Maldonado — Mon, 24 Sep 2018 21:21:00 +0000

It’s another early 6.30 AM start for breakfast at our lodge in Laguna Colorada. We then load our bags onto the Jeep and leave around 7.30 AM. It’s a short drive to our first stop – Árbol de Piedra (Rock Tree) – arriving at around 8.15 AM. Located in the Siloli Desert, the iconic rock in the form of a tree sits among a field of large rocks. Our guide said these were volcanic rocks that had been shaped by winds reaching 200 Km/h over hundreds of years. We were given around 25 minutes to walk around and managed to get some great pictures. We then get back on the Jeep and drive through the Siloli Desert towards a stretch of lakes.

We arrive at the first stop at Lake Honda at around 9.15 AM. We first stopped at a viewpoint for a panoramic view of the lake and then headed down to the lake. From the bottom, you can see the lake has a mirror effect reflecting the mountain landscape. Next, we continue for another 30 minutes to Lake Hedionda. We saw a couple of birds at this lake and walked about for about 10 minutes before getting back on the Jeep to head to the next lake. While driving we passed Lake Charcota and then reached Lake Cañapa. There were some more birds at this lake so we spent around 10 minutes walking around.

Then it was back to the Jeep and off to the viewpoint of the active Volcano Ollagüe. We reached the viewpoint at around 11.45 AM. There was a rock that you can climb up to take some pictures. We spent about 15 minutes here before continuing to another lake. I believe this lake was Laguna Negra (Black Lake) due to its dark color. Opposite the lake, there some more rocks dispersed in the desert. This was a quick 10 minute stop before heading to the last destination before lunch – Valle de Rocas (Rock Valley). It was only a 10-15 minute drive to get to this valley. Many rocks are laying all over the place in this valley, but the most iconic one was named the headless condor. This rock formation looked like a condor taking flight with only its head missing. We’re only here for 5 minutes to step out and take a picture since everyone was getting hungry by 1.30 PM. So it was onwards to the small village of Villa Alota where we had lunch in what seemed to normally be a restaurant. There are restroom facilities here which cost 2 BOB² per person.

Once we finished lunch, we continued towards the Uyuni Salt Flats. On our way, we passed through a scenic valley where we stopped to take pictures at the bottom of the valley and then when we reached the top. Shortly after, we also came across some plains where we saw llamas grazing in the field so we stopped there for some pictures. What was particularly interesting was how it looked like the wall of the mountains had been cut to make way for the road. Next, we arrived at the small town of Julaca which has railway tracks running through the middle of the town. There is a bar/restaurant in the town we visited where you can buy drinks and snacks. There was also an abandoned decaying train by the railway tracks which we climbed to take a picture. From here, we were now in the final leg of our journey to the Uyuni Salt Flats.

We were a little ahead of schedule so the guide suggested visiting some caverns before the sunset at the salt flats. The group agreed so it was a quick visit to Hell’s Cavern. The entrance tickets were 15 BOB each. As you step in, the cavern is dark until the site’s guide turns on the lights. He then hands out helmets before going deeper into the cavern. Some crouching and squeezing through gaps are involved but it’s a small cavern and takes about 15 minutes to complete. We then drove into the salt flats for about 30 minutes arriving at our sunset spot at around 5.45 PM. We stayed here to watch the sun fall behind some mountains. Following the sunset, it’s back on the Jeep to head to the hotel around 6.25 PM. Our hotel was made of salt and here we were allocated rooms between 2 people. There were shower facilities here as well which cost 10 BOB each. The dining area is on the first floor and dinner is served around 8 PM. There are sockets in the dining area if you need to charge any electronic devices. The rooms are basic but comfortable for a good night’s sleep.

Salar de Uyuni Tour – Day 2

Jean Maldonado — Sun, 23 Sep 2018 21:43:00 +0000

Our day starts at around 7.30 AM to have breakfast at our lodge in Quetena Chico. We then load our bags onto the Jeep and set out by 8.30 AM. When passing by Quetena Grande, we saw a herd of llamas and alpacas walking through the town and grazing in the fields. Our guide pointed out how the animals are marked on their ears to know who they belong to. He also explained how in these small villages, the local indigenous law applies which has serious repercussions for stealing livestock which includes death. As we continue deeper into the Eduardo Avaroa National Reserve, we reach Lake Hedionda at around 9.30 AM. This lake has a mirror effect because there is no wind. It was formed by glacial waters and minerals from a volcano about 100 years ago. The volcano minerals make the lake toxic which means there’s no life in this lake. You can see the minerals washing up on the shores which form white foam-like deposits. It’s a short 10-minute stop here before heading to Lake Kollpa arriving there around 9.50 AM. At this lake, we found flamingos resting at the lake. Our guide gave us some information on the species and then said when going to the lake, to walk slowly towards them as they startle easily. Surely enough he was right and we couldn’t get close enough for a good close up shot of the flamingos. It’s best to have a camera with a telephoto lens for close-ups. We had about 30 minutes at this lake to walk around before getting back on the Jeep.

Our next destination was the Chalviri Salt Flats. We arrived around 10.45 AM and first stopped higher up for a panoramic view before continuing further down for a closer view of the salt flats. Next, we head to the Dali’s Desert getting there at around 11.15 AM. This desert has been named that way due to it looking like the painter’s Dali’s paintings even though the artist had never visited the site. It’s a great spot for some screensaver worthy pictures. It’s a quick stop here as well before making our way to the The Green Lake and The White Lake reaching around 12.10 PM. These two lakes sit side by side with Volcano Licancabur in the background. Again this is a great spot for pictures and we were lucky to have had such clear blue skies.

We then head back on the road we came from to the thermal hot springs of Polques near the Chalviri Salt Flats. We reach around 1.25 PM and immediately head to the pools. The entrance tickets cost 6 BOB¹ each and the site provides changing room facilities and showers. There are two pools; the water is hotter in the higher pool and the water has a slightly pungent smell from the minerals. The minerals are supposed to detox your skin and it’s a nice relaxing way to chill overlooking the lagoon while waiting for lunch. We’re called in for lunch at around 2.10 PM in the site’s dining area. Once we’re done eating and getting changed, we leave for our next destination at around 2.50 PM. Our next site is the Tomorrow’s Sun Geysers arriving around 3.25 PM. Several geysers are spewing hot mud with the largest one throwing a cloud of hot gasses into the air. There are strong pungent smells at the site, especially as you walk through the cloud of gasses to get to the other geysers. Our guide said temperatures are around 96 degrees Celsius. He also told us to be careful and not get too close to the edges since the ground there can be unstable. After exploring the area and taking pictures, we left for our lodge in Lake Colorada at around 3.45 PM.

En route to our lodge, we passed some frozen shards which our guide said were formed by the strong winds. We reached Lake Colorada by 4.30 PM. This lake stands at almost 4300 meters and is mostly a reddish color with blue and white patches. We quickly unload our bags and then set out to hike up to the viewpoint at 4.50 PM. The trail is easy to follow but the terrain gets muddy at one point so take appropriate footwear. We got to the top of the viewpoint by 5.15 PM. You get great views of the lake from up here as sunset approaches. We had to leave before the sun sets, however, there’s a hill behind the lodge where you can catch the sunset between 6 and 7 PM. Temperatures are freezing so make sure you take very warm clothing. The lodge is quite rudimentary but has hot shower facilities for 5 BOB. We had a shared room between our group of 5 and there was a dining area where dinner was served around 8 PM. Following dinner, we stayed in the dining area playing card games with the group before heading to bed. This was probably the coldest place we stayed at in the 4-day tour, with temperatures falling well below zero to around -8 degrees Celsius. Several blankets are provided but the sleeping bag helped here.

Salar de Uyuni Tour – Day 1

Jean Maldonado — Sat, 22 Sep 2018 21:18:00 +0000

When we were in La Paz, we went to the main terminal to buy our tickets for Tupiza which cost 160 BOB¹ each plus 2.50 BOB for the terminal fee which is paid at departure. It was an overnight 10-hour 30-minute journey to Tupiza. The seats were the most comfortable I’ve ever been on since they turned into a bed by reclining 180 degrees and the footrest came up so you could lay completely flat. The Tupiza terminal is close to the Independence Plaza which is where you can find several shops, restaurants, and tour agencies. Once we got there, we immediately went looking for a 4 days and 3 nights tour to the Salar de Uyuni. After asking at several places, we decided to go with Valle Hermoso Tours since they seemed to have good reviews. The tour which included meals, shared accommodation, a guide, and transportation dropping us off at Uyuni came to 1300 BOB. All agencies charge a service fee if you pay by credit card so it’s better to pay cash due to the large payment. Note that if you have to withdraw money, the highest ATM limit I found in Tupzia was 2000 BOB. So if you’re paying for multiple people, keep that in mind.

Setting out from Tupiza

The meeting point was at the Valle Hermoso Hostel at 7 AM for breakfast with the rest of the group we would be going with. Our group was a total of 5 people plus the driver/guide. There was also another Jeep with a group of 4 who also left with us. As soon as everyone was done with breakfast, we set out at around 7.30 AM. The first stop is El Sillar which is a short 30-minute drive from Tupiza. At this viewpoint, we get to see some interesting red rock formations. We’re only here for about 10-15 minutes to take some pictures before continuing. The next stop is at the Awana Pampa plains. We pull up by the road and have some time to wander around. There’s a small hill you can climb to get some panoramic shots of the landscape. We make a couple of stops to rest and take pictures of the different landscapes along the journey. For lunch, we arrive at the small town of San Pablo de Lipez. We go inside what looks like a communal house which has some tables and chairs. The driver then preps some food with help from the locals.

Following lunch, we head to the Ghost Town. Once at the site, the guide drops us off at the top of the hill and tells us to walk down where we’ll find a site official to pay the entrance fee. Our guide then said that he’ll pick us up from the bottom in the town. You get some great views from the top of the hill and the trail down is easy to follow. The site official collects the 15 BOB entrance fee from everyone and gives some history of the site. He then points us in the direction of where to go and meet our guide/driver. We continue down and through the ghost town, walking past abandoned decaying buildings. You can make out the remains of what looks to have been a church. At the bottom, there are toilet facilities which you can use before continuing. The next main stop is Lake Morejón. This lake stands at 4855 meters above sea level with a beautiful mountain landscape sitting behind it. At this altitude the weather is cold and windy, so we stayed just long enough to take a couple of pictures before running back to the warmth in the Jeep. Our journey then continues towards the Eduardo Avaroa Reserve. There’s a checkpoint just before reaching Quetena Chico. Everyone has to register here with their passport and pay the 150 BOB ticket. There’s also a stamp here which you can put on your passport.

We then arrive at our lodging for the night just as the sun finishes setting. We unload our bags and settle down in our room while dinner is being prepared. The room is shared between the 5 people in our room. Dinner is served in the dining area around 7 PM. The lights are kept on until around 9 PM so we spent some time playing cards with the other travelers until then. Once it’s lights out, you have to use a torch or the flashlight from your phone to get around as there are no lights in the rooms or outside. The bathrooms are also in another building so you have to step outside to get to the other building if you need the toilet or want to have a shower. It’s quite cold in the room but there are several blankets and our tour provided us with sleeping bags as well. This was enough to keep us warm throughout the night. Facilities are rudimentary but comfortable enough a place to get a good night’s sleep.

Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve – Days 3 & 4

Jean Maldonado — Sun, 12 Aug 2018 22:34:59 +0000

On the third day, breakfast is served at 8 AM and we were scheduled to leave around 9.30 AM to go to the Indigenous settlement. We made stops when we spotted wildlife and reached the settlement around 11 AM. The people lived in wooden huts living off the land and hunting. A local lady showed us the process of making yuca bread. Yuca grows in the root like a tubercle. The women of the village are in charge of agriculture in the village whilst the men go hunting. Pulling out the root requires a lot of strength but the lady pulled it out with ease. She uses a machete to cut off the yuca from the root and makes an incision before handing it out to us to peel them. The root is replanted and it takes 48 hours for the leaves to grow again. It then takes 6-8 months depending on the climate for Yuca to grow again before it can be harvested.

The group then heads into the hut to wash our hands and then take turns in grinding the yuca. The lady then puts the ground yuca in a flat wood-like woven utensil. This utensil is called an anaconda by the locals as it uses a constriction method to squeeze out the water from the ground yuca. The lady wraps the utensil over the yuca and hangs it on a pole. She uses a stick to rotate and squeeze out the water into a container. This liquid can be used to make a chili sauce, soup, or even a face mask. The dried yuca now has a solid coconut-like like texture. It is placed on a sieve and everyone crumbles it and rubs it against the sieve to thin it out and make yuca flour. The lady then pours some of the flour onto a hot wood-fired plate. She spreads it evenly and presses it down with a wooden bowl to flatten it out. No oil, salt, or any other condiments are used, it is pure yuca. After a couple of minutes, the lady flips it over to cook the other side. The end product is a delicious tortilla shaped flatbread with a little crunch. Total prep time – approximately 45 mins. The locals have it with some hot sauce and make burrito like meals. We had it with the meal we’d been given at the lodge to take to the settlement.

We finished lunch around 1 PM and some of the local kids came to lay out handicrafts their families had made. There were necklaces, rings, and wristbands for sale. Following lunch, there was some time to play football with the locals. It got really hot in the afternoon and at around 2.30 PM everyone was exhausted so we took a dip in the river to cool off. The canoe came to pick us up around 3 PM and we head to the shaman’s village. We made a quick stop at a small village to buy some snacks and water. We got to the shaman’s village around 4 PM. The talk and demonstration with the shaman cost 5 USD¹ and lasted 1 hour. He mainly talks about his experience of becoming a shaman. There is also a demonstration of how to use a blow gun and an opportunity to fire one. He also asked for a volunteer who wanted their face painted with achiote. The last demonstration was of a ritual cleaning on a volunteer. After the talk, we headed back to Laguna Grande for the last sunset of the tour around 5.30 PM.

Day 4 - Homebound

The final day begins early in the morning to go out on the canoes for some bird watching at 6 AM. It had rained overnight so we didn’t see much and were back by 7.30 AM for breakfast at 8 AM. We left the lodge at 9 AM to go back to Lago Agrio. On the way back we came across a number of canoes by the shore. Turns out they had spotted an anaconda chilling on a tree and we got a chance to stop there for pictures. Due to heavy rainfall the night before, trees had fallen into the river so the driver had to accelerate over them. The canoe got stuck on one and we had to help out with getting the canoe back in the river. We had to be quick since another canoe could turn the corner and crash into us. We made it back to the main port by 12 PM to catch the bus back to the hotel meeting point where we’d parked the car.

Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve – Day 2

Jean Maldonado — Fri, 10 Aug 2018 21:23:00 +0000

The lodge has a tower which provides an aerial view of the cabins and the surrounding forest. If you’re into bird watching, the guide recommended getting there at dawn since it’s more likely that you’ll spot them. Binoculars and a long lens camera is essential for good pictures. Breakfast is served at 8 AM and the group is scheduled to leave in the canoes at 9.30 AM to go for a walk in the rainforest. The area for the 1-hour 30-minute walk is called Tierra Firme which translates to Firm Ground. The guide mentioned that it’s called this because it doesn’t flood during the wet season which we were currently in at the time. Wellingtons are provided in different sizes but do get there early, since your size may run out resulting in ending up with oversized wellies. The boat ride took about 1 hour after making stops to see dolphins before arriving at the starting point of our walk.

Upon arrival, the guide gives out health and safety instructions and then begins to explain the medicinal use of trees and plants. Here are some of the most interesting highlight.

The Quinina tree has medicinal features and its flower smell is similar to that of a jasmine flower. The indigenous people cut the bark with a machete and cook it for around 1-hour to 1-hour 30-minutes producing a brownish liquid. They drink it and it’s known to clean the bacteria in your body that causes malaria from mosquitos and also other diseases. The bark can also be chewed and you swallow the liquid to clean out your blood. It is sour and numbs your mouth and is also known to cure cavities. The tree is in danger of extinction because pharmaceuticals have started cutting it down for its medicinal features.

The Curare plant is a paralyzing nontoxic, non-poisonous plant used to coat hunting darts. The indigenous boil it in water for around 24 hours. The water evaporates leaving behind a jam-like solution which is used to coat the darts. When a dart hits a monkey, it takes about 2-4 minutes to paralyze their muscles after which it’ll fall off the tree. If the hunter doesn’t find the monkey, after a couple of hours the paralyzing effect will wear off and the monkey will be able to escape. The guide shaved some of the bark off and gave to us to put on the tip of our tongue. It is sour and numbs your tongue with an anesthesia-like effect. The indigenous also use it like anesthesia for numbing pain when healing cuts from machete/hunting accidents.

Termite nests are used in agriculture to feed fish and chickens. When burned, the smoke can have a fumigating effect to repel cockroaches and also serves as a natural mosquito repellent.

The Yoko tree bark oozes a white liquid when cut with a machete. It has a sweet nectar taste which can be used to treat ulcers, gastritis, or inflammation of the stomach.

By 12.10 PM, we were back at the canoe and the guide showed us how to attempt fishing using a hair and fly – we were not successful but it was fun. On the way back, we made a stop at Laguna Grande for a refreshing swim before heading back to the lodge for lunch and some free time to relax. At around 5 PM we headed back out to Laguna Grande to get there in time for the sunset followed by a night walk through the rainforest. After taking in the breathtaking colors we got to the jungle around 7 PM. Torches are not provided but we used our phones to light the way. We managed to see a leaf frog, grasshopper, tarantula, and many other insects. At one point, the guide made everyone turn off all the lights and stand in darkness for a couple of minutes so that the insects come out because they hide when they see light. We were back at the boat around 8 PM and at the lodge for dinner at around 8.30 PM.

Los Illinizas – Hiking in Volcano Avenue

Jean Maldonado — Tue, 07 Aug 2018 22:29:37 +0000

The twin peak volcano is located about 1-hour 30-minutes south of Quito on the road that goes past Machachi and through the small town of Chaupi. There is an access control point where the guards will take your details to sign you in and hold onto an ID. They will also ask if you are going to the south peak, north peak, or refuge. This is because the climb to the south peak can only be done with a licensed guide and the appropriate gear for glacial terrain. The north peak is easier to climb but the guards ensure you have the correct footwear and also insist on a guide. If your destination is the refuge, then the guards will simply ensure you have dressed adequately and let you through. The control point is open from 8 AM to 3 PM and you must sign out by 5 PM. The skies are normally clear in the morning and the clouds begin to creep in by the afternoon so I’d advise getting there as soon as it opens. If you do choose to climb the north peak, I’d recommend getting a guide as the trail is dangerous and many tourists have had accidents. The south peak is also infamous for claiming the lives of foreign climbers, so be warned, it is no easy feat.

To get there, you can take a bus to Machachi and then hire private 4×4 transportation there. The driver will drop you off at the start of the trail for the refuge and you can agree a time to be picked up. The trail leading up to the refuge takes around 2-hours 30-minutes depending on your skill level. The trail starts at an altitude of 3950 meters and is easy to follow thanks to the many signs showing the way. After about 1-hour 30-minutes, the dirt path begins to turn into a gravel path and it becomes more difficult to ascend. Depending on the time of year, you may come across patches of melting ice and snow. There are also several viewpoints of the landscape and given that its a clear day, you will be able to see the volcanos Cotopaxi, Rumiñahui, Pasochoa, and Corazon. Even if it’s partially cloudy, you may see the volcano peaks rising above the clouds; a truly magical sight.

The refuge is a rustic cabin at an altitude of 4750 meters so it’s a lot colder and windier up there. The guards at the control point let us know that the cabin may be empty when we get there and we can let ourselves in. The door is a little stiff so it seems locked but you just have to give it a good shove. Inside the cabin, there’s a kitchen with a stove, water, tea, coffee, and seating area. There are several beds there as well for those who stay the night to climb the south peak the following morning. On the wall, there is a list of prices for anything you make yourself and there’s a metal piggy bank to pay for it. We packed a couple of snacks and ingredients to make a tuna sandwich. So we just paid for some tea and coffee and used the utensils to prepare our sandwich. The restrooms are in the same building but you have to go outside and turn the corner to get to them.

Most people don’t know that there is a small lake 30 minutes away from the refuge on the other side of the mountain. To get there, you start following the trail that goes towards the north peak. You’ll then see the trail that leads directly to the peak, and to the left, there’s another trail that bends around the mountain. It may not look like much of a trail, but if you follow this for 20 minutes you’ll get to the lake. You’ll be able to see the north and south peaks from behind the mountain from here and makes for great pictures. By this point, it was noon and the clouds had moved in on us. It’s never a good idea to climb a mountain in the fog so we decided to go back down.

Volcan Antisana & Laguna La Mica

Jean Maldonado — Mon, 11 Jun 2018 12:32:25 +0000

Towering over the clouds at just over 5700 meters above sea level, Volcan Antisana is Ecuador’s 4th highest Volcano. It can be found in a beautiful and diverse national ecological reserve which is also home to Laguna La Mica. Geographically, it is close to the capital city of Quito and easily accessible by car. Google maps do not have the updated roads but the national ecological reserve can be accessed via the small town of Pintag. It is a scenic route which goes past a stretch of volcanic lava rock from a prehistoric eruption that is currently being quarried. Getting there by public transport is more challenging. You can take buses up until Pintag but then you would need to get private transportation that goes to the ecological reserve or book a tour. It is possible to climb Volcan Antisana but it is for highly experienced climbers and requires adequate climbing equipment for ice and snow. I believe that it is also necessary to get a permit from the officials in Pintag, so it is definitely a serious challenge to attempt.

Entry to the ecological reserve itself is free and the guard simply takes your ID details to sign you in. The ecological reserve opens at 9 AM and closes at 4 PM. I’d recommend getting there as soon as it opens since that’s when the skies are clearest for the best pictures of the volcano. Also, bring warm clothing as it gets very windy and cold due to being higher up than the capital. The lowest point is approximately 3100 meters and gets close to 4000 meters if you go on the trails around the lake. To get to Laguna La Mica, there is another checkpoint where the guard takes your ID details to sign you in. You have to leave the car at the parking lot at this entrance unless you have a senior with you. Laguna La Mica is a big C-shaped lake and the trails have great viewpoints of both the lake and Volcan Antisana. The short trails are 45 minutes long and take you halfway to get a view of the whole lake. The long trail is a 3 hours circuit which takes you to the other end of the lake. This terrain is great for acclimatizing if you plan to climb a mountain. However, do bring water and snacks as walking in high altitude is very exhausting