Maya – Maldo Travels

Lake Atitlan – Region of the Modern Mayas

Jean Maldonado — Mon, 21 May 2018 20:59:24 +0000

The eastern shore of Lake Atitlan is approximately a 3-hour journey on the winding, and at times, bumpy roads from Antigua. Once you arrive on the road that perimeters the great lake, you’ll witness dazzling views of the water and mountains that surround it. There are several viewpoints to make a quick stop to take some pictures and pick up some souvenirs if you’re in a hurry. If not, then it’s best to visit the nearby town of Chichicastenango. This town hosts the largest handicrafts market in Central America taking over the city’s town center on Thursdays and Friday. There are a vast number of textiles and Mayan souvenirs and you could grab a bargain through some negotiation. Be warned though, the sellers are very persistent and will sometimes follow you to try and get you to buy something. There is also a one of a kind church with Mayan influence in the middle of the market which is a nice break from exploring the market.

Modern Mayans

There are many towns around Lake Atitlan with various different lodging options from large hotels in tourist towns like Panajachel to homestays in the smaller towns like San Jorge La Laguna. I’d recommend doing a homestay if you’d really like an authentic experience of the Mayan culture. A Mayan family will welcome you into their home and cook a home meal and the family I stayed with even let me help out in making the tortillas. Communication may be a little difficult since they all speak Spanish and a Mayan language. Normally at least one family member speaks some English but it is also an opportunity to learn a couple of words in one of the Mayan languages. The family I stayed with spoke Kaqchikel and it was a very interesting experience to learn about their culture, traditions, and the work they did.

Santiago Atitlan

To visit the key towns around the lake, the quickest and most convenient way is to take a boat tour. Prices vary based on the number of towns you visit and it’ll be cheaper if you’re with a group; for a group of 12 people, it cost us 120 GTQ¹ each. Do make sure you clarify the towns you’d like to visit with the boat’s captain since the sales rep may have agreed on a certain route with you, but the boat captain may normally do another route. The boat departed from Panajachel and the first stop was the small town of Santiago Atitlan. To get a sense of the size of Lake Atitlan, it took about a 45-minute ride on the speedboat to get there; a distance of about 15 km. The town is still developing and has small roads with moto-taxis available to take you around. It’s a short relaxing walk through the town to Parque Central; a large rectangular plaza with a beautiful white church at one end and school buildings on the other three sides. The town also has a couple of restaurants and handicraft shops to check out before heading back to the pier.

San Juan La Laguna

Once back at the boat, it was approximately a 30-minute boat to the next town of San Juan La Laguna. Like Santiago Atitlan, this town also had several restaurants and handicraft shops. Some handicraft shops also offer a tour where they explain the process of making the colored textile threads using different plants and materials. They also let you have a go at the spinning of the wool to make a thread which is a lot harder than they make it look. Finally, they demonstrate the weaving of a hammock or another product. Some of these tours are paid, but there are a few which are free; mainly the ones run by a cooperative of women. After this session, we headed back to the boat for our final destination.

San Pedro La Laguna

Another 15-minute speedboat ride and we arrive at San Pedro La Laguna. This is a bigger town with more restaurants, bars, and shops. What was interesting about this town was the Jewish influence. Our guide told us that a Jewish community had relocated here hence the noticeable number of Jewish restaurants and shops. There was a small market at the plaza where you could buy fruit and veg. An interesting and tasty dessert I found was fruit dipped in chocolate such as a banana that had been frozen like ice cream. A great view of the town and lake turns out to be a church – Primera Iglesia Bautista. You can access the roof of this church for free and take some great pictures.

Tikal – Extraordinary Mayan Citadel

Jean Maldonado — Wed, 16 May 2018 18:05:09 +0000

At only two hours from San Ignacio, it is imperative that one visits the ancient Mayan ruins of Tikal. This site is more than just a couple of structures, it is a huge collection of ruins that reveal a complex planned Mayan city. The area it covers is absolutely massive. Whilst many tourists opt for a day trip, it is impossible to see everything Tikal has to offer. Getting a guide is also highly recommended since not only is it easy to get lost, but also because there is a plethora of flora, fauna, and history here. The national park is very strict about certified guides and thoroughly check their credentials. So if you go with a tour, ensure that their guide has genuine credentials or simply get a guide at the entrance to the park itself. This national park is also very well looked after and guarded so make sure you adhere to the signs. If you’re not sure whether you can touch or climb something, its best not to as you risk being escorted and banned from the park.

Among its iconic towering pyramids, Tikal is home to the tallest pyramid in Central America identified as Temple IV. There are plenty of temples and plazas to see in Tikal and some have platforms you can walk up whilst others allow you to climb the pyramid itself. You will notice that there are mounds of grass and sometimes even trees fused with a Mayan ruin on its surface. This is because approximately only 15% of this archaeological site has been excavated. Thus there is constant work being done to explore and uncover more secrets of this Mayan city.

As this site is in the middle of a rainforest, you will encounter lots of wildlife as you explore Tikal. There are mostly monkeys and you’ll see them jumping between trees and one may even run across you. The rainforest is also home to many different species of birds. You’ll mainly hear them sing and when you do, look closely into the trees to see if you can catch a glimpse of a Tucan.

San Ignacio – Mayan Cave and Ruins

Jean Maldonado — Tue, 15 May 2018 21:04:57 +0000

A two-hour bus ride away from Belize City takes you towards the Guatemala-Belize border at San Ignacio. The terminal is quite basic as are the buses so do not expect air con or other amenities. The town of San Ignacio is small but offers several stores, restaurants, and bars. It is perfectly located due to its proximity to both Mayan ruins and adrenaline filled experiences.

Ancient Mayan Cave

The most advertised tour is the Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) Cave, which although a little pricey at 85 USD², is definitely worth checking out. This Mayan cave is believed to have been used for burial rituals and sacrifices. It is mainly unexcavated so all artifacts are in their original positions and mostly embedded in the ground. Unfortunately, cameras are not allowed in the cave thanks to a tourist who dropped their camera on a skull. The authorities stress this and take this very seriously so you should refrain from being tempted to sneak one in. Some tour operators (Maya Walk Tours in my case) will email you a couple of pictures after the tour which are the ones I’ve used for this post. The tour operators also ask visitors not to use or to dial down the use of sunblock or repellent to help preserve the site, however, this is really up to you. The ATM Cave tour is no easy task. The tour operator will sugarcoat its difficulty to get you on board but you should be prepared to endure a physically demanding adventure. Also expect to get wet as well as knocks, bruises, and maybe even small cuts from sharp rocks. The tour operators will provide equipment which includes a helmet, headlamp, and water shoes if you don’t have your own.

The tour bus takes about 1 hour to arrive at the national park entrance and the guide will point out what are believed to be unexcavated Mayan ruins along the route. From the park entrance to the cave, it is a 45-60 minute trek where you will cross 3 streams/rivers. The water level is usually hip height but will of course vary depending on the season. Once you arrive at the cave entrance, all food and drink must be left behind on the benches along with any loose personal belongings. The guide will also hand out snacks at this point before heading into the cave. The river flows through the entrance of the cave and you may need to swim a couple of meters depending on how tall you are. Once inside, the guide will take you through the cave pointing out artifacts and explaining the rock formations. You will need to crouch, climb, squeeze through openings, and traverse through water which can reach hip high levels. The last section of the cave can only be explored without shoes but they let you keep your socks on if you don’t mind getting them muddy. This final section is where the majority of the artifacts lie mostly untouched. There are pottery, tools, and skeletons everywhere and although areas are cordoned off, you have to watch your step and be careful not touch or lean on any rocks your guide points out. It is a truly spectacular site with so much history and mystery. Once back at the park entrance, lunch will be served while you use the facilities to change into dry clothes and hang your wet ones to dry.

Mayan Ruins a Walk Away

The Mayan ruins of Cahal Pech are a short 25-minute walk from San Ignacio town center. They are believed to have been the residence of an elite ruling Mayan family and is small enough to cover in less than 2 hours. Entrance is 10 BZD³ which includes access to the visitor center and small museum. The complex is made up of several plazas, residential buildings, temples, and a pyramid. It’s a great stop if you don’t have time for the large Mayan ruins in the area.

Tulum – Scenic Beaches and Cenotes

Jean Maldonado — Thu, 10 May 2018 20:30:03 +0000

A 1-hour bus journey from Playa del Carmen takes you to the tranquil city of Tulum. Although the city is fairly small, all its tourist sites are well spread out and definitely not walking distances between each other. There is public transport available consists of combis/colectivos⁴. Another option is a car rental which would be of maximum convenience and comfort. Alternatively, there are bike rentals which at 100 MXN⁵ for a day turns out pretty cheap. The main beach at Playa Paraiso is a 15-20 minute bike ride from the downtown area depending on where you stay. Once at the beach, the views are cinematic with several beach chair rentals and bars/restaurants serving food and ice cold drinks.

Mayan Seaport Ruins

Tulum’s Mayan ruins are a 5-minute bike ride from the beach. There is ample parking space and you can lock up the bikes on the trees. Entrance costs 70 MXN without a guide and does not include the optional train ride to the ruins’ entrance which is a 15-minute walk away. These ancient Mayan ruins are one of the best conserved in the country and it also offers a stunning beach. The complex is quite small and can be completed in about 2 hours but there are several practically intact structures and walls. The Mayan city of Tulum is believed to have been used as a fortress and a port to trade with its neighboring civilizations. It is also rich in wildlife and you will be able to see iguanas up close and personal. The ruins are a very popular destination so plan to get there early to avoid the crowds especially at the beach. The weather is also very hot so take plenty of water and sunblock.

Gran Cenote

Cenote options are abundant in Tulum but one of the best has to be Gran Cenote and is located at just a 15-minute bike ride from downtown on Av. Coba. Entrance is 180 MXN for the ample site which offers great shower and changing room facilities. There are also several hammocks and seating areas to lounge around to relax or do some reading. They also rent out lockers (30 MXN) and snorkel gear (80 MXN) to take a dip in the cenote, however, both of these are optional. The water temperature is refreshing to cool off from the heat in Tulum. Once in the water, you can see fishes swimming around and if you look carefully, you may spot a turtle.

Cenote Cristal and Cenote Escondido

These two cenotes are adjacent to each other and are a 15-minute bike ride from downtown on Chetumal Street. The combined entrance for both cenotes has to be purchased at the entrance for Cenote Cristal and costs 120 MXN. There are no showers or changing rooms at either of the cenotes but there are a couple of benches and tables. Cenote Cristal has a platform where you can jump from into the water which is great fun. The only downside to this cenote is that there are a lot of mosquitos so make sure to take repellent with you. Cenote Escondido, in my opinion, was the better of the two. There are fewer mosquitos here and its shape is long but narrow like a swimming pool which makes for a great swim.

Cancun – Sun, Sea, and Resorts

Jean Maldonado — Sun, 06 May 2018 17:16:24 +0000

With a short two hour flight from Mexico City, you can reach the crystal clear turquoise waters of the Caribbean in Cancun. Upon arrival at the airport, you will be swarmed by tour operators offering to take you to your hotel. It is also possible to schedule transportation beforehand online and you simply look for the operator outside. There is no Uber⁶ in Cancun and Taxis are quite expensive compared to shared transportation. Since Cancun is a popular tourist destination, anyone working in tourism speaks at least English. The airport is about a 20-30 minute ride to the hotel zone and downtown.

Boat Tour And Snorkeling

I’m not much of a beach person so naturally, my first instinct was to look for activities. There are a range of options and the one that interested me the most was the boat tour to Isla Mujeres with a snorkeling session to see the ‘underwater museum’. The tour operator picks you up from your hotel or in my case, from a nearby hotel and drops you off at the pier. The 220 MXN⁷ Marina fee was not included in the tour price and is paid for at the pier. They hand out the snorkeling gear here as well and give you a colored wristband for when they call out groups by color. The boats are very big with capacity for about 50 people. There are benches with storage space underneath them for personal belongings and a net at the front of the boat to sit on. The boat ride is very relaxing as you feel a cool breeze whilst sipping on unlimited rum punch and taking in the amazing views of the crystalline water. It takes about 30 minutes to arrive at the snorkeling zone. There are several other boats in the area so it’s important to remember the name of the boat and stick with the guide. If you’ve never been snorkeling, then this 30-minute experience will make for a nice first time and you’ll see a couple of ruins and a car but not much sea life. There are other snorkeling destinations that are much better.

Once back on the boat, it’s a 45-minute ride to a restaurant at the southern point of Isla Mujeres. The restaurant has a private beach to relax and take in the view. After lunch, the boat takes you to Playa Norte which is the main beach at Isla Mujeres. There’s a tequila tasting session and then you have an hour to roam around. The island is long but narrow and you can cross to the west side in a 5-minute walk. The Isla Mujeres Sign is on this side and there aren’t many people here since they stay on the main beach. It’s also possible to rent quad bikes if you want to see the whole island. The beaches are beautiful but the island is quite expensive.

Chichen Itza – Mayan World Wonder

Jean Maldonado — Sat, 05 May 2018 10:56:00 +0000

Chichen Itza is one of the current Wonders of the World for their meticulously calculated structures. It remains a mystery as to how the Mayans were able to architect and plan such full-featured buildings. The main pyramid Kukulcan not only focuses on the Mayan calendar but also on their spiritual beliefs. The number of steps and sections represent the calendar days and months of a Mayan calendar. The pyramid’s position is also no coincidence. During the two yearly equinoxes, triangular shadows form along the steps giving the appearance of a Mayan god – the feathered serpent – making its way down the pyramid to fertilize the land for a good harvest. The pyramid is also built in such a way that that when you clap near its base, you get a quetzal echo response from the pyramid – a sacred bird to the Mayans. This is not all, the temple at the top of the pyramid also serves to amplify sound for when the leaders addressed their citizens. This awe-inspiring complex is only two and a half hours away from Cancun by bus. I’d recommend going with a tour as it is definitely worth hearing the explanations from a guide.

Another structure with impressive features is the ceremonial ball court. The Mayans used to play a game once a year where the winning team’s captain would be sacrificed for a good harvest. At one end of this ball court, there is a platform with what appears to be six sections separated by pillars where it is hypothesized the guests sat. At the other end is a throne where the emperor would have taken his place. It is important to pay attention to the ball court side walls. The bricks are large near the guests and then get smaller towards the emperor’s throne. This is for sound to travel in that direction so the emperor could listen to his guests’ conversations. However, sound did not travel in the other direction so the guests were oblivious they were being spied on. This is why it is speculated that the guests would have likely been enemies invited to these spiritual ceremonies in ‘good faith’.

Other highlights in Chichen Itza include the Temple of Warriors. This is where soldiers would visit to make an offering before heading out to battle. The Wall of Skulls is a platform where it is believed that enemies were sacrificed and their heads left on display to inspire fear to visitors. There is also a structure which is akin in appearance to modern observatories. It is assumed that these were used by the Mayans to study the stars. There are also two cenotes, one north and one south of Chichen Itza. The north cenote is about a 15-minute walk away and there are many merchants selling souvenirs on the path which leads there.