Lake – Maldo Travels

Mojanda Cajas – Andean Lakes

Jean Maldonado — Sat, 19 Dec 2020 11:25:00 +0000

Some amount of preparation is necessary to visit the lakes at Mojanda Cajas as there are several routes. The main route is the one that has a road coming from Otavalo. This route is a cobblestone road that arrives at the main lake, so it’s easily accessible by all vehicles types. If you’re coming from Otavalo then this is the better option, however, if you’re making your way from Quito, this route adds another 30-40 minutes to your journey. The alternative route is a dirt road from Tabacundo. Given this, it’s not suitable for small vehicle types and if it has been raining, only 4×4 cars will be able to make it up. So if you plan to come from Quito, make sure to check the weather.

Since this place is quite remote, there is no public transport to the lake. Therefore, you first need to take public transportation to Otavalo or Tabacundo, and then look for a taxi service. There are also pickup truck services in these areas which may be more suitable. When booking the transportation service, you should agree on either a time for them to wait for you before heading back, or ask them to return to pick you up if you plan to be there a while. Otherwise, it’ll be a long walk back as it is kilometers of uninhabited landscapes.

We went via the Tabacundo route and it takes about an hour to get to Tabacundo from Quito. From Tabacundo, it then takes about another hour along the dirt road to reach the lakes. It had not been raining recently when we went, but certain parts of the road were very muddy. We were in a small SUV-type vehicle that only struggled in one uphill part where the passengers had to get off. Throughout the drive, you get to enjoy some amazing landscapes of rocky mountains and green valleys. Towards the end of the journey, we managed to spot the lake from a distance. We came across a viewpoint where we got off to take some pictures. We then continued another 15 minutes downhill to reach the car park by the lake.

Next to the car park, there is a small area with some cabins that can be rented out and a small garden area. We got there at around 9 AM and it looked like there was no one around so we had the whole lake to ourselves. At the end of the garden, there is a small pier that you can walk on to and get some great pictures. It was cloudy when we got there so the water looked quite grey. However, the sun did come out for a bit and the water looked much clearer. No matter the weather, the surrounding landscape is amazing. It’s also possible to go in the water, but be warned, the water is freezing cold. We managed to go in knee height for a couple of seconds before running back out. We spent about 30 minutes at the lake before it got cloudy again, so we decided to head down just in case it started to rain. If the weather was better or if we had been camping, there is a map at the site with several trails in the area.

Quilotoa – Volcanic Crater Lake

Jean Maldonado — Wed, 08 Jan 2020 22:01:00 +0000

From Quito, it’s about a 3-hour drive south and it’s easiest to get there by car. An organized tour from Quito would be the best option. For a cheaper alternative, you could first take public transport to Latacunga. From here, you can take another bus or hire private transportation to Quilotoa. There’s a small town at the top of the caldera which has some hostels, restaurants, and a parking lot. When entering the small town, there is a 2 USD¹ fee per car. This is the only fee and gives everyone access to the lake. We got there at around noon and after parking the car, we first headed to a viewing deck at the tip of the caldera. There are several great spots to take pictures of the lake.

After taking some pictures, we headed down the trail to the lake. It’s mostly rocky but in some parts, there is gravel/sand. It took us about 35 minutes to get down to the lake. There’s a small shop by the lake where you can buy some snacks and drinks. You can also rent kayaks for 30 minutes (3 USD), 1 hour (6 USD), and 3 hours (10 USD). We rented some Kayaks for 30 minutes and managed to row about halfway into the lake. We got a bit wet from kayaking, so after giving the kayaks back we dried off in the sun by the small pier on the lake. We then went for a short walk by the shoreline before heading back up. The hike up is steep and more challenging but you can rent mules for 10 USD to take you back. I walked back up and it took me about 50 minutes. The altitude makes it harder and I was very out of breath by the time I got back up.

We then had some lunch at a restaurant in the town before heading back to Quito. On the way back, we stopped at the Toachi River Canyon which is a short 20-minute drive into the journey. It’s quite an amazing sight as it looks like the ground has been torn apart. It was a quick 15-minute stop for pictures before continuing on our way back. Whilst on the highway back to Quito, we caught a glimpse of the towering Cotopaxi volcano. The skies where quite clear and we could see other volcanos in the area which made for a great drive back.

Snowdonia National Park – Snowdon Peak

Jean Maldonado — Sun, 14 Jul 2019 20:52:00 +0000

From our Airbnb² in Machynlleth, it was a 1 hour and 30-minute drive to Pen-y-Pass car park which has some trails to Snowdon. We got there at around 8.20 AM but the car park was already full, so we drove another five minutes and found a parking spot off the highway. From here, it was about a 45-minute walk up to the car park where the trails start from. We saw a bus go past when we were parking the car, but they don’t come often since we didn’t see one go by whilst walking. Once at the car park, we decided to go on the Pyg Track since it was the shortest one. The trail was quite busy this weekend since there was a race happening to get to the top of Snowdon. The trail is easy to follow and starts with a gradual ascent. About 30 minutes into the hike, we came across the lakes. The trail at this point is mostly a stone path that’s easy to walk on. The next 40 minutes walking along the lakes, the trail becomes more of a dirt path that can be muddy if it has rained. There are some large rocks at some places that you have to climb over, but nothing too difficult.

When we reached the last lake, the path became a steeper climb and more tiring. We climbed up for about 20 minutes and took some rest. We sat down on some rocks enjoying the view of the valley and lakes we had gone past. We then continued another 20 minutes climbing over the clouds. We reached the ridge from where you can continue to some of the Snowdon peaks. The steam train also passes through here and we saw it go past. Since it was cloudy, we couldn’t see any of the landscape from here and decided to head back down. The way back took us 2 and a half hours rather than the 3 hours it took us to head up. At the car park, we had some food at the cafe before taking a bus back down to where we parked the car.

Lake Como – Lakeside Towns and the Alps

Jean Maldonado — Sat, 20 Apr 2019 22:15:00 +0000

The day following our arrival in Milan, we decided to head to Como. We first went to Milano Centrale and bought tickets at the machines which have an English option. Tickets are quite cheap with a one-way journey costing 4.80 EUR³ and you can also buy online beforehand. Our train departed at 9.04 AM and it’s only a 40-minute journey to the Como S. Giovanni station. From the station, it’s a short walk to the main plaza – Piazza Cavour. The ferry is opposite the plaza lakeside and after walking around for a bit, we headed there to get tickets for a ferry to Bellagio. We got there at around 10.30 AM and there was quite a long queue which we waited in for about 15 minutes. We bought fast ferry tickets for 13 EUR departing at 12.15 PM. There’s a complete list of fares available here. With about 1 hour 30 minutes to go, we went for a walk around the city. There are several plazas and pedestrian areas that make walking a nice way to explore the city. The lakeside walk is also beautiful and has some seating areas to enjoy the view.

By noon, we were back at the pier and the queue was already long. We boarded the ferry and all seats on the upper deck were almost taken but I managed to find one. The windows on the upper deck are a lot cleaner than the lower deck so it’s better for pictures. The windows on the lower deck also get splashed by the water. It took about 45 minutes to reach Bellagio arriving at around 1 PM. The views on the way are incredible especially the last 15 mins where you can see the Alps. We also got a peek at the small towns of Argegno, Lenno, and Tremezzo which the boat made stops at. Once in Bellagio, we walked up a narrow path and there were several restaurants along the way so we stopped at one for lunch. After finishing lunch around 2 PM, we headed to La Punta which is the peninsula that sticks out into the lake. This viewpoint has the best views of the Alps and it takes about 10 minutes to walk there from the town center. Once at the peninsula, there’s a small park and cafe/restaurant where you can relax and enjoy the view. We stayed here for about an hour then headed back to the pier to get tickets for Menaggio.

When we got to the main ticket office, there was a huge queue. We waited in line for over an hour. All the staff is behind the counter and there is no one walking about to provide info which was frustrating. We saw a ferry stopping at another pier at the other end of town, so one of us went to it to see where it went. It turns out there was another ticket office there with no queue. We had to run there as it was departing soon at 4.30 PM but we made it and ended up getting tickets for Varenna for 4.60 EUR since we’d lost so much time. It was a quick 15-minute sail to Varenna and again, the views of the lake and surroundings are spectacular.

After getting off in Varenna, we went for a walk and wandered through narrow hilly passages. It’s a nice walk and there are several restaurants/cafes in the colorful lakeside town. My favorite part is the path along the lake as there are several viewpoints with postcard-perfect views of the lake and colorful houses. There are some benches to rest at and take in the views or you could dine in one of the many lakeside restaurants. After about 2 hours of walking around, we headed to the Varenna train station and got there at around 6.45 PM. Trains to Milan leave every hour and we’d just missed the 6.37 PM train so we had to wait for the 7.37 PM one.

The ticket office was closed and there was no one around to provide info. A train arrived at 7.27 PM and we weren’t sure if it was our train being early or another train. We got on and there was no information about where it was going nor did the train conductor make an announcement. We asked passengers and they said it didn’t go to Milan so we got off. Our train was late and came at 7.50 PM. Since we couldn’t buy a ticket at the station, when the ticket inspector came by he sold us a ticket for 6.70 EUR and we were able to pay by credit card. On the route from Varenna to Lecco, the train goes right by the lake with views of the sun setting behind the mountains. The journey back took about 1 hour 20 minutes and we were back in Milan at 9.10 PM.

Edinburgh and Loch Ness – Winter Holidays

Jean Maldonado — Mon, 10 Dec 2018 19:42:12 +0000

From London, it’s a short 1 hour 30 minute flight to get to Edinburgh making it perfect for a weekend getaway. We left on an early Saturday morning getting to Edinburgh at 9.30 AM. We rented a car to get around the city and after dropping off our bags at the hotel, we headed out to the National Wallace Monument. It was an hour’s drive away from Edinburgh to the site which is near the city of Stirling. Entrance tickets were 10.75 GBP⁴ and you can find more info on the site here. Once you’ve paid for your ticket, there’s a bus service included which takes you up the hill to the monument. You can wait for the bus or hike up the hill which took us about 15 minutes. At the monument, you can then walk up the stairs in the tower to top for panoramic views of Stirling. Inside the tower, there’s a museum laid out on several floors. These make for good checkpoints to explore the museum on the way to the top. The museum goes over William Wallace’s and Scotland’s history. Once you reach the top, it gets very windy so make sure you take warm clothing. After taking some pictures, we headed back down and took the bus back down to the entrance.

By now it was around 1.30 PM so we headed back to the capital to visit Edinburgh Castle while we still had some sunlight. Finding free parking in the city can be a little tricky but we found a paid car park near the castle. We got to the castle ticket office at around 3 PM. Tickets cost 19.50 GBP but we got them for half price with our English Heritage membership. A free guided tour is included or you can hire an audio guide for 3.50 GBP. We had about 1 hour 30 minutes to explore the castle which is full of history. There are also some great viewpoints from the towers and castle walls. It was dark by the time we finished touring the castle when the site was closing at 5 PM. We then went for a walk around the city and came across a winter Christmas market which was set up in the Princess Street Gardens. There were several rides and the city is nicely lit up with Christmas lights. After getting some dinner, we then headed back to the hotel to get some sleep for an early morning the next day.

On Sunday, we left at 7.30 AM for Loch Ness, stopping for breakfast at Inverness at 10.30 AM. It’s then a quick 15-minute drive to the start of Loch Ness. Along the highway, there are several viewpoints with parking spots to get some pictures of the lake. We continued along the lakeside highway until we reached Urquhart Castle. This is roughly the halfway point of the lake so we decided to visit the lakeside castle. Tickets cost 12 GBP and there’s no English Heritage discount here. There’s also a free guided tour included with the ticket which leaves from the mound at the end of the castle. We walked around the castle ruins before the tour started at 1.30 PM. On the tour, the guide takes you through the site going over the history and the changing appearance of the castle through time. The tour takes about 30 minutes and ends in the keep. There’s also a pier at the site for boat tours that stop here. We were done with our visit at around 2.30 PM and started to head back to Edinburgh. When we got back, we went for another quick walk around the city to get some dinner. It was then an early night to be up to get our early morning flight back to London the next day.

San Pedro de Atacama – Laguna Cejar

Jean Maldonado — Fri, 28 Sep 2018 22:04:32 +0000

We booked this afternoon tour for 12,000 CLP⁵ which included transportation, guide, and an evening snack. The meet-up point was at the tour agency’s office at 4.30 PM. It’s then a quick 30-minute drive to Laguna Cejar. At the entrance, you pay the 15,000 CLP for access to the lake. We follow the guide to the lake’s viewpoint and he gives some information on how its high salt levels allow you to float almost flat. He also says that the lake is protected now so access is prohibited to it. However, we can bathe in the adjacent Laguna Piedra which has the same effect. The entrance fee for this lake is 1000 CLP per person. There are changing rooms and shower facilities there. You have to take a shower before entering the lake especially if you’ve put on repellent or sun lotion since these are harmful to the lake. We’re given about 45 minutes to bathe in the lake and get changed before continuing on the tour.

We continue another 20 minutes to Laguna Tebinquiche. On the way to the lake, we pass ‘Ojos del Salar‘ (Eyes of the Salt Flat). These are two watering holes and the guide says that you can jump into one of them. I took the plunge and the water was really cold. Next, we continue to the lake to catch the sunset. The guide gives some info on the lake and then says we can walk throughout the trail to take some pictures. When we get back, the guide has laid out some snacks and drinks on a foldaway table. He then hands out some cups and pours us some wine to drink whilst watching the sunset. It was a great way to end the tour before heading back to San Pedro de Atacama.

San Pedro de Atacama – Piedras Rojas

Jean Maldonado — Thu, 27 Sep 2018 21:25:00 +0000

We were coming from Uyuni an just missed the last bus so we bought a ticket for the first bus the next day departing at 5.30 AM for 150 BOB⁶ each. It takes about 4 hours to reach Ollague which is the border control point into Chile. Everyone has to get off the bus for the Chilean officials to inspect the bus thoroughly. We then unload our bags and the customs officers go through your bags and ask the usual questions. This was one of the strictest land borders I’ve crossed and it took about an hour and a half to get through. The officers are friendly, they just inspect everything and everyone meticulously. From Ollague, the next stop is Calama where some people get off before the bus continues to San Pedro de Atacama. We arrived in San Pedro around 4 PM. The bus drops you off at the main terminal which is a 10-15 minute walk to the town center.

Finding Tours and the Town

San Pedro is very small and you’ll probably just spend most of your time around the town center since the rest seems residential. You can walk the length of the main street Caracoles in about 5 minutes. Nearly all the tour agencies can be found on or off this road. We asked in a couple of places and the pattern seemed to be the bigger your group/more tours you buy, the cheaper the total cost. We ended up getting 3 tours – Piedras Rojas (30,000 CLP), Geysers El Tatio (17,000 CLP), and Laguna Cejar (12,000 CLP) totaling 59,000 CLP each (group of 2). Once that was sorted, we went to grab some food in town before heading back to our hostel to get some rest.

Piedras Rojas Tour

The tour bus picks us up from our hotel at 8 AM and we head to Laguna Chaxa. On the way, we make a quick stop at the highway village of Toconao. We get to Laguna Chaxa at around 10 AM and the entrance ticket costs 2500 CLP. This lake is at the start of the Atacama Salt Flats which the guide gives us some info on and tells us to look out for flamingos. We then have about 20 minutes to walk around the site and we managed to spot a lone flamingo in the middle of the lake. The lake is quite large so a camera with a telephoto lens would be best for close up pictures. This lake also has a mirror effect, similar to the lakes we saw in the Uyuni Salt Flats. Once we’re finished walking around, we head back to the entrance where there is a rest area with tables and chairs. The guide lays out some bread and spreads for us to have breakfast. He also takes out some thermos containers with coffee and hot water to make tea. Once everyone is done with breakfast, we get back on the tour bus and head for the next stop – Lagunas Miscanti y Miñiques. We arrive at Laguna Miscanti first at around 12.45 PM and the entrance ticket for the pair is 3,000 CLP. At this site, there’s a restroom and a viewpoint of the lake. The guide then tells us it’s a 25-30 minute walk to Laguna Miñiques or we can hop back on the tour bus which is going to wait for us there. We opted for the walk and arrived at an elevated viewpoint of the lake. Once everyone arrives, we get back on the tour bus and continue to Piedras Rojas.

We get to Piedras Rojas at around 2 PM and the tour bus pulls over on the side of the highway for us to get some pictures. This first viewpoint is for a panoramic of Piedras Rojas from a distance. We then hope back on and drive past Piedras Rojas on our way to Laguna Tuyajto. The guide tells us we’ll be stopping here on the way back as well. It’s a short drive to the next lake and we arrive at around 2.30 PM. The viewpoint is a little far from the lake and the guide says we can walk down the highway to get a closer view. We spend about 15 minutes here before the tour bus does a U-turn to head back since any further along this road and we’d be in Argentina. On the way back we stop by Piedras Rojas as promised for a closer view. It’s a quick 5-10 minute stop here for pictures before getting back on the tour bus and heading for lunch. Our lunch spot is at a tourist restaurant in Socaire which is about 1-hour 40-minutes away. Following lunch, it’s another hour to get back to San Pedro de Atacama where everyone is dropped off on the main street.

Salar de Uyuni Tour – Day 3

Jean Maldonado — Mon, 24 Sep 2018 21:21:00 +0000

It’s another early 6.30 AM start for breakfast at our lodge in Laguna Colorada. We then load our bags onto the Jeep and leave around 7.30 AM. It’s a short drive to our first stop – Árbol de Piedra (Rock Tree) – arriving at around 8.15 AM. Located in the Siloli Desert, the iconic rock in the form of a tree sits among a field of large rocks. Our guide said these were volcanic rocks that had been shaped by winds reaching 200 Km/h over hundreds of years. We were given around 25 minutes to walk around and managed to get some great pictures. We then get back on the Jeep and drive through the Siloli Desert towards a stretch of lakes.

We arrive at the first stop at Lake Honda at around 9.15 AM. We first stopped at a viewpoint for a panoramic view of the lake and then headed down to the lake. From the bottom, you can see the lake has a mirror effect reflecting the mountain landscape. Next, we continue for another 30 minutes to Lake Hedionda. We saw a couple of birds at this lake and walked about for about 10 minutes before getting back on the Jeep to head to the next lake. While driving we passed Lake Charcota and then reached Lake Cañapa. There were some more birds at this lake so we spent around 10 minutes walking around.

Then it was back to the Jeep and off to the viewpoint of the active Volcano Ollagüe. We reached the viewpoint at around 11.45 AM. There was a rock that you can climb up to take some pictures. We spent about 15 minutes here before continuing to another lake. I believe this lake was Laguna Negra (Black Lake) due to its dark color. Opposite the lake, there some more rocks dispersed in the desert. This was a quick 10 minute stop before heading to the last destination before lunch – Valle de Rocas (Rock Valley). It was only a 10-15 minute drive to get to this valley. Many rocks are laying all over the place in this valley, but the most iconic one was named the headless condor. This rock formation looked like a condor taking flight with only its head missing. We’re only here for 5 minutes to step out and take a picture since everyone was getting hungry by 1.30 PM. So it was onwards to the small village of Villa Alota where we had lunch in what seemed to normally be a restaurant. There are restroom facilities here which cost 2 BOB¹ per person.

Once we finished lunch, we continued towards the Uyuni Salt Flats. On our way, we passed through a scenic valley where we stopped to take pictures at the bottom of the valley and then when we reached the top. Shortly after, we also came across some plains where we saw llamas grazing in the field so we stopped there for some pictures. What was particularly interesting was how it looked like the wall of the mountains had been cut to make way for the road. Next, we arrived at the small town of Julaca which has railway tracks running through the middle of the town. There is a bar/restaurant in the town we visited where you can buy drinks and snacks. There was also an abandoned decaying train by the railway tracks which we climbed to take a picture. From here, we were now in the final leg of our journey to the Uyuni Salt Flats.

We were a little ahead of schedule so the guide suggested visiting some caverns before the sunset at the salt flats. The group agreed so it was a quick visit to Hell’s Cavern. The entrance tickets were 15 BOB each. As you step in, the cavern is dark until the site’s guide turns on the lights. He then hands out helmets before going deeper into the cavern. Some crouching and squeezing through gaps are involved but it’s a small cavern and takes about 15 minutes to complete. We then drove into the salt flats for about 30 minutes arriving at our sunset spot at around 5.45 PM. We stayed here to watch the sun fall behind some mountains. Following the sunset, it’s back on the Jeep to head to the hotel around 6.25 PM. Our hotel was made of salt and here we were allocated rooms between 2 people. There were shower facilities here as well which cost 10 BOB each. The dining area is on the first floor and dinner is served around 8 PM. There are sockets in the dining area if you need to charge any electronic devices. The rooms are basic but comfortable for a good night’s sleep.

Salar de Uyuni Tour – Day 2

Jean Maldonado — Sun, 23 Sep 2018 21:43:00 +0000

Our day starts at around 7.30 AM to have breakfast at our lodge in Quetena Chico. We then load our bags onto the Jeep and set out by 8.30 AM. When passing by Quetena Grande, we saw a herd of llamas and alpacas walking through the town and grazing in the fields. Our guide pointed out how the animals are marked on their ears to know who they belong to. He also explained how in these small villages, the local indigenous law applies which has serious repercussions for stealing livestock which includes death. As we continue deeper into the Eduardo Avaroa National Reserve, we reach Lake Hedionda at around 9.30 AM. This lake has a mirror effect because there is no wind. It was formed by glacial waters and minerals from a volcano about 100 years ago. The volcano minerals make the lake toxic which means there’s no life in this lake. You can see the minerals washing up on the shores which form white foam-like deposits. It’s a short 10-minute stop here before heading to Lake Kollpa arriving there around 9.50 AM. At this lake, we found flamingos resting at the lake. Our guide gave us some information on the species and then said when going to the lake, to walk slowly towards them as they startle easily. Surely enough he was right and we couldn’t get close enough for a good close up shot of the flamingos. It’s best to have a camera with a telephoto lens for close-ups. We had about 30 minutes at this lake to walk around before getting back on the Jeep.

Our next destination was the Chalviri Salt Flats. We arrived around 10.45 AM and first stopped higher up for a panoramic view before continuing further down for a closer view of the salt flats. Next, we head to the Dali’s Desert getting there at around 11.15 AM. This desert has been named that way due to it looking like the painter’s Dali’s paintings even though the artist had never visited the site. It’s a great spot for some screensaver worthy pictures. It’s a quick stop here as well before making our way to the The Green Lake and The White Lake reaching around 12.10 PM. These two lakes sit side by side with Volcano Licancabur in the background. Again this is a great spot for pictures and we were lucky to have had such clear blue skies.

We then head back on the road we came from to the thermal hot springs of Polques near the Chalviri Salt Flats. We reach around 1.25 PM and immediately head to the pools. The entrance tickets cost 6 BOB¹ each and the site provides changing room facilities and showers. There are two pools; the water is hotter in the higher pool and the water has a slightly pungent smell from the minerals. The minerals are supposed to detox your skin and it’s a nice relaxing way to chill overlooking the lagoon while waiting for lunch. We’re called in for lunch at around 2.10 PM in the site’s dining area. Once we’re done eating and getting changed, we leave for our next destination at around 2.50 PM. Our next site is the Tomorrow’s Sun Geysers arriving around 3.25 PM. Several geysers are spewing hot mud with the largest one throwing a cloud of hot gasses into the air. There are strong pungent smells at the site, especially as you walk through the cloud of gasses to get to the other geysers. Our guide said temperatures are around 96 degrees Celsius. He also told us to be careful and not get too close to the edges since the ground there can be unstable. After exploring the area and taking pictures, we left for our lodge in Lake Colorada at around 3.45 PM.

En route to our lodge, we passed some frozen shards which our guide said were formed by the strong winds. We reached Lake Colorada by 4.30 PM. This lake stands at almost 4300 meters and is mostly a reddish color with blue and white patches. We quickly unload our bags and then set out to hike up to the viewpoint at 4.50 PM. The trail is easy to follow but the terrain gets muddy at one point so take appropriate footwear. We got to the top of the viewpoint by 5.15 PM. You get great views of the lake from up here as sunset approaches. We had to leave before the sun sets, however, there’s a hill behind the lodge where you can catch the sunset between 6 and 7 PM. Temperatures are freezing so make sure you take very warm clothing. The lodge is quite rudimentary but has hot shower facilities for 5 BOB. We had a shared room between our group of 5 and there was a dining area where dinner was served around 8 PM. Following dinner, we stayed in the dining area playing card games with the group before heading to bed. This was probably the coldest place we stayed at in the 4-day tour, with temperatures falling well below zero to around -8 degrees Celsius. Several blankets are provided but the sleeping bag helped here.

Salar de Uyuni Tour – Day 1

Jean Maldonado — Sat, 22 Sep 2018 21:18:00 +0000

When we were in La Paz, we went to the main terminal to buy our tickets for Tupiza which cost 160 BOB¹ each plus 2.50 BOB for the terminal fee which is paid at departure. It was an overnight 10-hour 30-minute journey to Tupiza. The seats were the most comfortable I’ve ever been on since they turned into a bed by reclining 180 degrees and the footrest came up so you could lay completely flat. The Tupiza terminal is close to the Independence Plaza which is where you can find several shops, restaurants, and tour agencies. Once we got there, we immediately went looking for a 4 days and 3 nights tour to the Salar de Uyuni. After asking at several places, we decided to go with Valle Hermoso Tours since they seemed to have good reviews. The tour which included meals, shared accommodation, a guide, and transportation dropping us off at Uyuni came to 1300 BOB. All agencies charge a service fee if you pay by credit card so it’s better to pay cash due to the large payment. Note that if you have to withdraw money, the highest ATM limit I found in Tupzia was 2000 BOB. So if you’re paying for multiple people, keep that in mind.

Setting out from Tupiza

The meeting point was at the Valle Hermoso Hostel at 7 AM for breakfast with the rest of the group we would be going with. Our group was a total of 5 people plus the driver/guide. There was also another Jeep with a group of 4 who also left with us. As soon as everyone was done with breakfast, we set out at around 7.30 AM. The first stop is El Sillar which is a short 30-minute drive from Tupiza. At this viewpoint, we get to see some interesting red rock formations. We’re only here for about 10-15 minutes to take some pictures before continuing. The next stop is at the Awana Pampa plains. We pull up by the road and have some time to wander around. There’s a small hill you can climb to get some panoramic shots of the landscape. We make a couple of stops to rest and take pictures of the different landscapes along the journey. For lunch, we arrive at the small town of San Pablo de Lipez. We go inside what looks like a communal house which has some tables and chairs. The driver then preps some food with help from the locals.

Following lunch, we head to the Ghost Town. Once at the site, the guide drops us off at the top of the hill and tells us to walk down where we’ll find a site official to pay the entrance fee. Our guide then said that he’ll pick us up from the bottom in the town. You get some great views from the top of the hill and the trail down is easy to follow. The site official collects the 15 BOB entrance fee from everyone and gives some history of the site. He then points us in the direction of where to go and meet our guide/driver. We continue down and through the ghost town, walking past abandoned decaying buildings. You can make out the remains of what looks to have been a church. At the bottom, there are toilet facilities which you can use before continuing. The next main stop is Lake Morejón. This lake stands at 4855 meters above sea level with a beautiful mountain landscape sitting behind it. At this altitude the weather is cold and windy, so we stayed just long enough to take a couple of pictures before running back to the warmth in the Jeep. Our journey then continues towards the Eduardo Avaroa Reserve. There’s a checkpoint just before reaching Quetena Chico. Everyone has to register here with their passport and pay the 150 BOB ticket. There’s also a stamp here which you can put on your passport.

We then arrive at our lodging for the night just as the sun finishes setting. We unload our bags and settle down in our room while dinner is being prepared. The room is shared between the 5 people in our room. Dinner is served in the dining area around 7 PM. The lights are kept on until around 9 PM so we spent some time playing cards with the other travelers until then. Once it’s lights out, you have to use a torch or the flashlight from your phone to get around as there are no lights in the rooms or outside. The bathrooms are also in another building so you have to step outside to get to the other building if you need the toilet or want to have a shower. It’s quite cold in the room but there are several blankets and our tour provided us with sleeping bags as well. This was enough to keep us warm throughout the night. Facilities are rudimentary but comfortable enough a place to get a good night’s sleep.