Inca – Maldo Travels

World Wonder of Machu Picchu

Jean Maldonado — Sat, 08 Sep 2018 21:21:00 +0000

There are many ways to visit Machu Picchu from multi-day hikes to one-day trips all with different budgets. Since it’s quite remote and I likely won’t be going back any time soon, I chose to plan a 2 day trip with a stay in Aguas Calientes. Unlike the other activities in South America which you can pretty much turn up in town and look for tours, Machu Picchu is one that should be planned. Tickets to the mountain sell out well in advance as do the train tickets to Aguas Calientes.

Planning A 2-Day Trip

Although I would have loved to do a multi-day hike along the Inca trail, it wasn’t an option for me since I had another itinerary to stick to for the rest of South America. Out of the other options, the cheaper one is a bus to the hydroelectric power station and then a hike to Aguas Calientes. This journey, however, seemed to take quite long and it would be better to spend that time at Machu Picchu. So that left me with the train to Aguas Calientes. We were staying in Cusco, but all the train tickets were sold out from that station. The next closest departure was from Poroy which cost 55 USD¹ leaving at 7.35 AM and reaching Aguas Calientes at around 11 AM. This arrival time meant we could get a Machu Picchu afternoon entry ticket from 12 PM to 5.30 PM for 64 PEN² plus tax (total 66.58 PEN). Then for the following day, I planned to get a Machu Picchu + Mountain morning ticket for 112 PEN plus tax (total 116.52 PEN). The return train from Aguas Calientes to Poroy departed at 3.20 PM and arrived at around 7 PM which cost 65 PEN. All these tickets can be bought online.

Day 1 - Cusco To Machu Picchu

With my train departing from Poroy at 7.35 AM, the ticket specified being at the station at 7.05 AM. With that in mind, I didn’t want to risk an Uber³ not being available so I got my hostel to schedule a taxi for me. It cost 26 PEN and took about 40 minutes to get there. The train station is small but well kept with lots of seating areas. There are some stalls to buy food and also street vendors outside the station if you want to grab some breakfast. When it’s time to board the train, the staff at the doors put up signs with coach letters. You can find which coach you are in on your tickets and queue up accordingly to board the train. The train seats are quite comfortable and you get a table between 4 people. Throughout the 3 hour journey, there were recorded announcements of any sites we went by providing information on them. There were great landscape views and lunch was also provided towards the end of the journey. We reached Aguas Calientes at around 11 AM. The Train Station is practically in the middle of the town next to the arts and crafts market. The town is very small so you can easily walk everywhere. We headed to the hotel to drop off our bags before heading up to Machu Picchu.

We chose to hike up on this day. The route is well signposted so it’s pretty straightforward to follow and it took us about an hour. Despite getting some shade from the trees, it was still very hot and a tiring hike. Make sure you take sunblock and a hat to protect yourself from the potent sun. The tropical climate and environment also meant there were lots of insects and mosquitos around, so you’ll need to put on repellent to keep them away. Once at the top, there was a long queue for the entry, and several guides offering their services. I’d recommend getting a guide since there’s so much history in this place. They tend to have fixed prices so it’s cheaper if you’re in larger groups. We queued up for about 15 minutes which wasn’t too bad. Once inside, we first went up to the main viewpoints on the Machu Picchu mountainside. You get great views from here of the whole site and Huayna Picchu Mountain.

Next, we followed signs for the Inca Bridge. It takes about 30 minutes to get there, and you have to sign in at a control point. Access is free and the control point just ensures all visitors sign in and out once they return. The trail becomes quite narrow in some parts and can be vertigo-inducing. They’ve put a gate up so that people don’t attempt to cross the bridge as it’s very narrow and dangerous. We then headed back along the trail and back to the viewpoint area. We found a spot there to have some snacks and wait for the sunset. Although the ticket states the time slot is until 5.30 PM, the site officials start asking people to leave at around 5 PM. I managed to stick around until 5.25 PM to capture a time-lapse of the sun setting behind one of the mountains. After this, we headed to the exit. Make sure to look for the Machu Picchu stamp at the exit to put on your passport. The easiest way to locate it is to look for a group of people clustered in a small area. Once we got our stamp, we walked back down to Aguas Calientes.

Having walked all day, our legs we extremely sore so we rested for a bit before heading out for dinner. We stayed on the north side of the river and there are several restaurant options there. Since we were hungry and it was close by, we went to one of these tourist restaurants. The food was OK and quite pricey. After dinner, we stopped by the bus ticket stall to get a ticket for the next day. The bus ticket prices are extortionately expensive. They only accept cash or Visa cards for an extra fee. We only got a one-way ticket to the mountain for 40 PEN each. We then went for a quick walk south of the river to explore. This is when we found that restaurants were cheaper south of the river with several street food stalls there too. We then headed back and clocked out early to for our morning start the next day.

Day 2 - Machu Picchu Mountain

The first buses up to Machu Picchu depart at 5.30 AM. So we got up at 5 AM to start queuing up. The local market was opening in those early hours so we could pick up some snacks on the way. There are some street vendors selling sandwiches on the way as well but the market is cheaper. There was already quite a long queue by the time we arrived but there is also a queue of buses waiting to board people. It’s a little chilly in the early hours of the morning before the sun comes up, so take a sweater to keep warm while waiting in the queue. We got on the second or third bus and then it was about a 30-minute ride up to Machu Picchu. There was less of a queue this time so we got in a little quicker than the day before. We had entry tickets for the time-slot 7-8 AM for the Machu Picchu Mountain. However, I confused the mountains and we were waiting at Huayna Picchu until 7 AM. So when the site official told us, we had to rush to Machu Picchu which is about a 25-minute walk at the other end. By the time we got there, a queue had formed so we had to wait about 15 minutes to sign in at the control point. Now that the sun was up, it was starting to get hot. It took us about an hour to complete the hike which was quite exhausting. You get some great views along the way and from the final viewpoint, you’ll get to see Machu Picchu in the distance among a landscape of green mountains. We spent about 30 minutes at the top before heading back down.

We then proceeded to complete a circuit of all the ruins at the site. We found that most of the site seems to be rubble that has been assembled back together. However, there are a couple of places where you’ll see the perfectly cut stones joined together like a jigsaw puzzle. It’s truly amazing how the Inca were able to construct such an immense complex in such a remote place. We completed the circuit around noon and headed to the exit. It took us about 45 minutes to walk back down to Aguas Calientes. We then spent some time walking around the arts and crafts market and getting some lunch. After that, we picked up our bags from the hotel and headed to the train station which was scheduled to depart at 3.20 PM. The cheaper train back to Poroy was quite similar to the one we took to Aguas Calientes. The only difference was that there wasn’t any food/snacks included with the ticket. We reached Poroy at around 7 PM and although there are no Ubers in Poroy, we had the phone number of the taxi who dropped us off. However, we found that several taxis are waiting outside the station. We enquired with one and he quoted us a 30 PEN fixed rate to Cusco, so we went with him. We reached Cusco at around 8 PM. By this point, we were exhausted so we just grabbed some quick food from one of the street vendors and went straight back to the hotel.

Final Thoughts

A 2-day trip is required if you plan to hike up Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain. Otherwise, if you just plan to walk around the site, you can make do with a day trip. Machu Picchu Mountain is probably not worth the additional day, but Huayna Picchu seems to be more interesting and more challenging. Tickets for Huayna Picchu sell out well in advance though, so make sure you look early. Everything in the town is more expensive than any other tourist destination I’ve been to in South America. So many people visit the site which means they can pretty much charge whatever they want. It’s still worth a once in a lifetime visit where you get to experience history, culture, and unique magical views. But if you ask me whether I’d go back, I’d probably say no; but simply because it’s unjustifiably expensive.

Cusco – Sacred Valley of the Inca

Jean Maldonado — Thu, 06 Sep 2018 20:58:00 +0000

Our journey to Cusco began in Ica where we took the 7 PM overnight bus. It’s an 18-19 hour journey so I’d recommend getting a VIP seat which is comfier and reclines further back. I slept for most of the journey and got off to stretch my legs whenever the bus stopped for short breaks. We arrived at the Cusco Bus Terminal around 1.30 PM. We were staying in the area of San Blas, 3 blocks from the main square Plaza de Armas. It was a 30-minute walk, so with the blazing sun and heavy backpacks, we opted to take an Uber¹. The ride took about 15 mins with some traffic and cost 8 PEN². After unpacking and resting for a bit, we went to check out the city and look for tours. We decided on a full-day tour of the Valle Sagrado for the following day. The tour we got was for transportation with a guide for 75 PEN each. Ticket costs were then the Partial Ticket of the Valle Sagrado at 70 PEN each and the Salineras de Maras ticket at 10 PEN each which you pay at the corresponding sites. We also booked a Rainbow Mountain Tour – which included lunch – for when we returned from Machu Picchu at 65 PEN each. Once the tours were sorted out, we headed to the Plaza de Armas for some dinner. There are several restaurants in the square and the staff is outside tries to get people to come in. We chose a restaurant with a first-floor window view to catch the sunset. Next, we went to grab some snacks for the following day before heading back to our room to get some sleep.

Chinchero

It’s an early start for this tour with the minibus picking us up at 7 AM. After touring around the city to pick everyone else up, we made our way to the first destination – Chinchero. The journey from Cusco to Chinchero is about an hour. We first stop at an arts and crafts workshop where one of the indigenous women talk through the process of making their textile products. Following the talk, we’re given about 10 minutes to browse around to make any purchases. Next, we get back on the minibus and continue for about 5 minutes to the site. We start at the main plaza outside the town’s church where indigenous people are setting up for a small market. The guide said that on Sundays, there was a big market in the main plaza. The tour guide then gives a brief history of Chinchero and the people who used to live there before the Incas took over. We then walk deeper into the town and come across the agricultural terraces. The tour guide then explains how their stepped design was used to create microclimates, enabling them to grow a wider variety of crops. She also talks about how all the terraces are layered with large stones at the base, sand in the middle, and fertile earth on top which facilitates filtration. We’re given about 10-15 minutes to explore the area and take pictures. We then head back to the main plaza and are given 10-15 minutes to explore the church. Then it’s back to the minibus and onwards to the next destination.

Moray

From Chinchero, it takes about 50 minutes to get to Moray. This site showcases several circular agricultural terraces of the Inca Empire. The guide talks about how these circular forms were less common and although their purpose is not known, they are believed to have been used for research by the Incas. The guide goes into a bit more detail about micro-climates and how the Incas experimented with crops and vegetation. We were given about 20-30 minutes to roam around the site and take pictures before heading back to the bus.

Salineras de Maras

It takes about 40 minutes to get to the Salineras de Maras from Moray. Just past the entrance, there is a great viewpoint of the salt mines which are stacked along the mountainside. The guide gives a history of the salt mines which predate the Incas and also talks about how they form. She mentions that salt mines can only be mined by the local community and each plot belongs to a family member of the community. There is a trail that goes along the plots of salt deposits. The path is very narrow so it is a one-way circuit that loops back. Now that it was later in the day, there were many more tourists at this site compared to the previous two. You’ll find that traffic stops on the trail when people are taking pictures, so oftentimes you’ll be waiting for the line to move. Overall, there are several viewpoints with great panoramic views of the salt mines.

Ollantaytambo

This next stop is about an hour away from the Salineras de Maras. Once you enter the site, you’ll see the familiar terraced structures built into the mountain. However, unlike the previous destinations, Ollantaytambo had a military purpose. We walk up to one of the terraces where we sat down in some shade for the guide to give us information on the site. She goes over the details of the structure and points out the high walls which force attackers to go up through a narrow passage. She also goes over its strategic location and gives a history of its use and construction. She said that construction was never fully completed due to a civil war that followed after Huayna Capac died leaving no successor – which she goes over in more detail. After the discourse, we were given about 30 minutes to explore the site. We continued to the top of the hill where there were some reconstructed structures. There is another trail that starts there which seems to go around behind the mountain but we didn’t have time for that. We followed another trail that goes along the front of the mountain and has great views of the site. We then went back down to explore some of the structures there and found a small stream. We then regrouped with the tour and headed back to the minibus for the final destination.

Pisac (Pisaq)

Of all the journeys, this one is the longest at 1 hour 30 minutes from Ollantaytambo. Entering the site, you’ll walk along the agricultural terraces getting great views of the Sacred Valley. When we arrive at the foot of the structures of Pisac, the guide gathers us around to give us information on the site. Pisac was an Inca citadel and has several temples, houses, and storage structures. It’s built on a mountain offering great panoramic views of the Sacred Valley. The guide also pointed out some square holes on the mountain opposite. She said they were believed to be burial sites of a civilization predating the Inca. We were given about 30 minutes to walk around the site before heading back to the bus. There are several trails but they are well signposted so you can’t get lost. As it was later in the day, the sun was setting so the whole citadel was in the shade. It was also extremely windy so make sure you take your sweater or coat. The views were amazing and a great place to end the tour. Once we regrouped with the tour at the minibus, it was about an hour’s journey back to Cusco.

Ingapirca – Cañari & Incan Ruins

Jean Maldonado — Wed, 15 Aug 2018 22:55:40 +0000

Located only 1-hour 30-minutes from the red-roofed city of Cuenca, Ingapirca (Quechua for Inca Wall) is a well preserved archaeological site without the crowds. We made our way there from Alausi which was a 2-hour 30-minute drive away. Entrance is only 2 USD⁴ and includes a 1-hour guided tour which leaves every 30 minutes. The ticket office has a comfortable waiting area and information panels to take a look at while waiting for the next guide. The site entrance is at the other end of the ticket office and is the meeting point for the tour. The paths to follow are clearly marked and you aren’t allowed to cross the rope into the green areas. The first stop on the guided tour is at some circular holes in the ground. These are Cañari ruins and served as storage units for the grains that they harvested. The structure behind it was a Cañari temple used by high ranking members of society. There is a hut that is a replica of what a Cañari house would have looked like. The semi-circular grassland was built in platforms to create a more stable terrain to grow grains. The Templo del Sol was the main temple but also served as a viewpoint to control the plantation.

At the next stop, the guide shows the group some stones that were used to grind the grains which were then fermented to make Chicha; a beverage used in ceremonies. The Inca have 4 main Raymi (gods) and each has a ceremonial ritual associated with agricultural phases. These ceremonies occur when the seed is planted, when the shoots surface, when the plant blooms, and the harvesting of the crops which is the well known Inti Raymi and still celebrated today. After the fall of the Incas, the Catholic priests owned the land and began to take the stones from Ingapirca to use as the foundation in the construction of their churches. Seeing this, the locals began to do the same to use in their homes. In 1966, Ingapirca was declared a national heritage site and in 1970, archaeologists began realizing campaigns to recover the Incan stonework from the neighboring towns. The stones which were recovered have been returned to the site which can be seen lined up next to the Templo del Sol.

The Templo del Sol was were the ‘Virgins of the Sun’ carried out their work for ceremonial rituals to worship the Sun. These included making the Incan drink ‘Chicha’ and textiles for high ranking members of society. The ‘Virgins of the Sun’ were also sacrificed but only when there was a natural phenomenon like a volcanic eruption or eclipse. The human sacrifice ritual wasn’t as cruel as what is shown in movies. They were given an overdose of a hallucinogen. After they died, they were given a ceremonial burial and then taken to the highest mountain peaks. The Incas believed that the mountain tops had the highest connection with the Sun god. So they offered the human sacrifice from there pleading the Sun god to stop the natural phenomenon. Animal sacrifices were common and were performed in accordance with the agricultural calendar to ask for a good harvest. The Templo del Sol is the only Incan temple that takes an oval shape and is 37 meters long and 12.5 meters wide. Its form is due to Cañari influence since all Cañari structures are circular. The Cañari originally had a ceremonial stone which is now within the center of the temple that they used for astronomical observations. When the Inca came, they constructed over this and directly above this rock, they built two chambers; one facing east and the other facing west to enable morning and evening ceremonies. These two chambers served as altars where they displayed their gold idols representing their gods.