Hot Springs – Maldo Travels

Cunuyacu – Waterfall and Hot Spring

Jean Maldonado — Wed, 06 Jan 2021 08:47:00 +0000

Located on the foothills of the volcanic twin mountains Los Ilinizas, the waterfall and hot spring of Cunuyacu are about a 2-hour drive away from Quito. These destinations are less frequented by tourists and on an off-the-beaten-path route. To get there, you first need to get to the Ecological Reserve which can be accessed via a dirt road in San Juan de Pastocalle after coming off the Panamericana highway. There is a large tourist sign at the entrance of the dirt road so it should be easy to spot. It had rained the day before so the road was quite muddy. We went in an SUV-type vehicle and managed to get through most of the way without any issues. There was just one part where there was quite a large rock where the passengers had to get off for the car to make it up.

We made it to a car park at around 7.30 AM, and although we could proceed further, we decided to leave the cars there since the road wasn’t getting any better. We then started hiking up, and after a couple of minutes, we came across the entrance that had a large welcome sign. The road at this point was cordoned off to block vehicles access. There was also a house here and I had read up that there was someone who lives in the area that provides transportation. However, it was quite early and no one seemed to be in, so we went across the barrier and continued hiking up. From this point, the dirt road got much worse with large holes and rocks. Only a 4×4 vehicle would be able to make it up, but for a hike the road is fine. It took us about an hour to reach a viewpoint which was also the start of the trail.

First, the trail descends to the river where there is a small wooden footbridge. It was quite muddy so take care when going down the trail as some parts are very slippery. After crossing the bridge, the trail splits with one route leading to the waterfall and the other going to the hot spring. The trail has signposts along the way so you won’t get lost. We first followed signs for the waterfall and we got there in about 10 minutes. The waterfall itself isn’t too big, but the highlight is its red/orange color. The color is due to the rocks that have been tinted red by volcanic minerals. The color of the water itself is clear and it doesn’t give off a bad odor that volcanic minerals tend to produce. We were able to get close to the waterfall which made for some great pictures. To get close to the waterfall you have to cross the stream which has some slippery rocks. Water shoes or wellies would be great but not necessary. We were the only ones there and we didn’t run into any other groups at this time. We spent about 20 minutes taking pictures here before continuing to the hot spring.

We first turned back and walked along the trail to return to the footbridge. Then we followed the other route that leads up to the hot spring. Along the trail, we passed through a mystical forest of Polylepis trees. In Ecuador, this tree is nicknamed the ‘Paper Tree’ due to its appearance of the bark peeling off like layers of paper. This trail is a little longer and we reached the hot spring in about 20 minutes. Once again, we were the only group there and had the place to ourselves. The hot spring is a small natural pool where they’ve stacked some sandbags to contain more water. The water temperature itself is warm, not hot, but it’s more refreshing after the hike. You can smell the minerals here, but it is not off-putting. The highlight is the view since the pool is like a balcony on the mountainside looking over the landscape. The weather wasn’t great so we didn’t get to see much of the neighboring mountains, but it was still a great place to relax. We stayed here for about an hour before it started to rain, so we started heading back before a downpour.

It was a wonderful experience abundant in nature and great for a day trip from the capital city. The hike itself was fairly easy and only tiring due to being at an altitude of over 4000 meters. If you go later in the day, the transportation service would save you the 1-hour initial hike. It was also great to have the place to ourselves without having to deal with tourist crowds.

Salar de Uyuni Tour – Day 2

Jean Maldonado — Sun, 23 Sep 2018 21:43:00 +0000

Our day starts at around 7.30 AM to have breakfast at our lodge in Quetena Chico. We then load our bags onto the Jeep and set out by 8.30 AM. When passing by Quetena Grande, we saw a herd of llamas and alpacas walking through the town and grazing in the fields. Our guide pointed out how the animals are marked on their ears to know who they belong to. He also explained how in these small villages, the local indigenous law applies which has serious repercussions for stealing livestock which includes death. As we continue deeper into the Eduardo Avaroa National Reserve, we reach Lake Hedionda at around 9.30 AM. This lake has a mirror effect because there is no wind. It was formed by glacial waters and minerals from a volcano about 100 years ago. The volcano minerals make the lake toxic which means there’s no life in this lake. You can see the minerals washing up on the shores which form white foam-like deposits. It’s a short 10-minute stop here before heading to Lake Kollpa arriving there around 9.50 AM. At this lake, we found flamingos resting at the lake. Our guide gave us some information on the species and then said when going to the lake, to walk slowly towards them as they startle easily. Surely enough he was right and we couldn’t get close enough for a good close up shot of the flamingos. It’s best to have a camera with a telephoto lens for close-ups. We had about 30 minutes at this lake to walk around before getting back on the Jeep.

Our next destination was the Chalviri Salt Flats. We arrived around 10.45 AM and first stopped higher up for a panoramic view before continuing further down for a closer view of the salt flats. Next, we head to the Dali’s Desert getting there at around 11.15 AM. This desert has been named that way due to it looking like the painter’s Dali’s paintings even though the artist had never visited the site. It’s a great spot for some screensaver worthy pictures. It’s a quick stop here as well before making our way to the The Green Lake and The White Lake reaching around 12.10 PM. These two lakes sit side by side with Volcano Licancabur in the background. Again this is a great spot for pictures and we were lucky to have had such clear blue skies.

We then head back on the road we came from to the thermal hot springs of Polques near the Chalviri Salt Flats. We reach around 1.25 PM and immediately head to the pools. The entrance tickets cost 6 BOB¹ each and the site provides changing room facilities and showers. There are two pools; the water is hotter in the higher pool and the water has a slightly pungent smell from the minerals. The minerals are supposed to detox your skin and it’s a nice relaxing way to chill overlooking the lagoon while waiting for lunch. We’re called in for lunch at around 2.10 PM in the site’s dining area. Once we’re done eating and getting changed, we leave for our next destination at around 2.50 PM. Our next site is the Tomorrow’s Sun Geysers arriving around 3.25 PM. Several geysers are spewing hot mud with the largest one throwing a cloud of hot gasses into the air. There are strong pungent smells at the site, especially as you walk through the cloud of gasses to get to the other geysers. Our guide said temperatures are around 96 degrees Celsius. He also told us to be careful and not get too close to the edges since the ground there can be unstable. After exploring the area and taking pictures, we left for our lodge in Lake Colorada at around 3.45 PM.

En route to our lodge, we passed some frozen shards which our guide said were formed by the strong winds. We reached Lake Colorada by 4.30 PM. This lake stands at almost 4300 meters and is mostly a reddish color with blue and white patches. We quickly unload our bags and then set out to hike up to the viewpoint at 4.50 PM. The trail is easy to follow but the terrain gets muddy at one point so take appropriate footwear. We got to the top of the viewpoint by 5.15 PM. You get great views of the lake from up here as sunset approaches. We had to leave before the sun sets, however, there’s a hill behind the lodge where you can catch the sunset between 6 and 7 PM. Temperatures are freezing so make sure you take very warm clothing. The lodge is quite rudimentary but has hot shower facilities for 5 BOB. We had a shared room between our group of 5 and there was a dining area where dinner was served around 8 PM. Following dinner, we stayed in the dining area playing card games with the group before heading to bed. This was probably the coldest place we stayed at in the 4-day tour, with temperatures falling well below zero to around -8 degrees Celsius. Several blankets are provided but the sleeping bag helped here.

Arequipa – Colca Canyon

Jean Maldonado — Wed, 12 Sep 2018 23:20:00 +0000

Following our adventure-filled stay at Cusco, we took an overnight bus to Arequipa which departed at 8.30 PM and arrived around 7 AM. Tickets for the more comfortable VIP seat that reclines further back cost 60 PEN² each. The Cusco terminal also has a usage fee of 1.40 PEN. If you take a taxi/Uber³ to the terminal, then the taxi entrance fee is 1.30 PEN. It’s a fairly smooth ride to Arequipa and we were able to get some sleep overnight. Our hotel in Arequipa was next to the Santa Catalina Monastery. We took a 15 minute Uber from the bus terminal which cost 10 PEN.

The City and Finding Tours

Our room wasn’t ready so we dropped off our bags at the hotel and then went to the Plaza de Armas to look for tours. A visit to the Colca Canyon was a must for us and we were presented with several options. A 1-day, 2-day or 3-day tour. The 1-day tour seemed too rushed and the 3-day tour looked great, but we wanted to leave our third day in Arequipa for another activity. So we went for the 2-day tour with a trekking option. For our third day, we decided to do a rafting tour. Once we reserved the tours, we went for a walk around the city and found the central market so we had some lunch there. We then went to the Aventura Mall to grab some snacks and water for the 2-day Colca Canyon tour. At around 3 PM, we headed back to the hotel to get our room. We got some rest before heading out for a quick walk in the evening. Since we were going to be picked up around 3 AM the next day, we went to bed early to rest up before the trek. The city of Arequipa is quite small and beautiful. It also has quite a good nightlife which we explored when we returned from the Colca Canyon tour.

Colca Canyon - Day 1

We were picked up from our hotel at around 3 AM. The tour bus then made stops at other hotels to pick up other people before making our way to the Colca Canyon. We stopped at a small town for breakfast around 8 AM and reached the viewpoint at Cruz del Condor at around 9.30 AM. At this viewpoint, you get the chance to see some Andean condors in flight. You’ll need a camera with a telephoto lens zoom to get a good close up picture. If you don’t get lucky enough to catch some condors, the viewpoint offers great landscape views of the canyon. After about 30 minutes at the viewpoint, the tour bus then takes us to the starting point of the trek which is about a 20-minute drive from the viewpoint. Day 1 of the trek is pretty straightforward since its all downhill. In total it’s about 3-hours 30-minutes of trekking and everyone walks together with the guide in front. The guide breaks the walks up into 20-30 minutes each and gives info on the canyon and vegetation in the breaks. At around 1 PM, we made a stop for lunch.

The lunch spot is shortly after reaching the bottom of the canyon and crossing the river. We had about 1-hour 30-minutes for lunch before continuing to the oasis lodge. In this last leg of the trek, there is a small stall where you can buy snacks and water. At the end of the trek, you cross the river again and the oasis lodge is a short walk from there. We reached the lodge at around 4.30 PM. Rooms were allocated based on the groups we came in. If you came solo, they’ll pair you up with another solo traveler. The guide then tells us dinner will be served at 6 PM so until then, we have time to shower, rest, and use the pool. The rooms were quite basic and there is no power socket, so make sure you take a portable charger. There are 2 showers and these are shared by everyone so we took a shower before resting or heading to the pool. Also, there are no lights in the showers, so take a flashlight. The pool has a bar and some seating area. The water was a little chilly so we didn’t get in and just rested by the pool for a bit. At 6 PM we then moved to the dining area for dinner. After dinner, the guide gave us instructions for the next day to be ready at 5 AM to begin the trek up the canyon. He said some flashlights were available but we could also use our phones. He also mentioned that this trek was a lot more difficult, and if you’re worried you can’t make it up, you could hire a mule. After the talk, you can head for bed or stay until around 8-9 PM in the dining area which had lights. We stuck around and played some card games with other travelers. Once the lights were out, we then went to bed to rest up for the early morning trek.

Colca Canyon - Day 2

It was quite a chilly night at the lodge and we were up at around 4.30 AM to get ready to leave at 5 AM. We waited at the meeting point for about 10 minutes for everyone to turn up. The guide said it would take about 3 hours to trek up and for this one, we could go at our own pace since there is only one route and can’t get lost. The trek up starts at around 2100 meters ending at 3200 meters and is exhausting. It’s quite cold in the early hours but as the sun comes out, it starts to get hot. The sun comes up at around 6 AM and you get great views of the canyon at sunrise. Once at the top, there’s an area to rest and sit under some shade. We waited for about 20-30 minutes for the rest of the group to arrive. Next, it’s a short 20-minute walk to the town of Cabanaconde for breakfast. Along the way, we come across a viewpoint for some pre-Inca terraces.

Once we’re done with breakfast, the tour bus then takes us to the hot springs near the town of Yanque. Entrance to the hot springs costs 15 PEN. This is optional though and you can choose to chill by the river. The river water is freezing whilst the water in the thermal baths can reach 38 degrees. From the thermal baths, there’s access to the river for people to jump in after getting out of the hot springs. We’re given about an hour here before heading for lunch in Chivay where we’re taken to a buffet-style restaurant. This is optional and you can choose to go elsewhere. The buffet cost 30 PEN each and was very good. Next, we begin the journey back to Arequipa and make a stop at the viewpoint ‘Mirador de Los Andes‘. This is a viewpoint of all the surrounding mountains and volcanos. You can also take a picture with llamas/alpacas that the locals bring here. We arrived back at Arequipa at around 5 PM and the tour bus leaves everyone at their hotels or the Plaza de Armas.

Imbabura – Lakes and Hot Springs

Jean Maldonado — Mon, 06 Aug 2018 22:11:45 +0000

North of the capital city of Quito lies the province of Imbabura with several options for quick one day trips or weekend getaways. The famed arts and crafts town of Otavalo is a popular stop for its market that sells quality hand made textiles and handicraft items. Other than a number of towns home to a large population of indigenous people, Imbabura is plentiful in nature with scenic lakes and volcanos. To get there you can take the inter-provincial buses, however, it would be best to rent a car since these destinations are in fairly remote areas.

Lago San Pablo

At only 1-hour 30-minutes from the capital, Lago San Pablo is a beautiful lake with the majestic volcano Imbabura in the background. There are several private access lakeside restaurants and cabins on the shores of the lake, but if you want public access, you have to go through the town of San Pablo del Lago. Parking is free and there is a cafe/restaurant there for snacks and refreshments. It’s possible to do some kayaking in the lake and there are also some boat tours.

Laguna Cuicocha

Another hour’s drive further north from Lago San Pablo is the magical Laguna Cuicocha. This is a more popular tourist destination and there are several tour agencies that go here from Quito. On a clear day, you’ll be able to see the volcano Cotacachi in the background. This lake sits on a volcanic crater and has two small islands in the center. It’s no longer possible to access the islands due to a fire that broke out at the restaurant that used to be there. There is a boat tour that loops around the islands and the guide talks about the flora and fauna found on the lake and islands. The guide will also point out some bubbling in the water which are due to the volcanic minerals. The tour is about 45 minutes long and also comes with a complimentary canelazo – an aguardiente and cinnamon based alcoholic drink. There is also a restaurant where you can enjoy lunch with a view of the lake.

Termas de Chachimbiro

A 1-hour 45-minute drive further north from Cuicocha takes you to the hot spring pools of Chachimbiro. There are several swimming pool complexes with natural hot spring waters. The complexes have good facilities with changing rooms, restrooms, and a cafe/restaurant for snacks and drinks. Some of them require the use of swimming caps which can be rented or bought on site. The pools are layered in tiers and the ones higher up have hotter pools since they are closer to the source. It’s a very relaxing way to end the day and the pools stay open late into the night until 9-10 PM.