Chile – Maldo Travels

Valparaiso, Chile to Mendoza, Argentina

Jean Maldonado — Tue, 02 Oct 2018 20:58:18 +0000

Initially, we planned to make this journey overnight since we read up that it was around a 9-hour trip. However, whilst on the Uyuni Salt Flats tour, we met an Argentinian traveler who recommended we do the trip in day time instead since the landscapes were beautiful and we were not disappointed. When we arrived at Valparaiso, we bought bus tickets for Mendoza leaving the following day at 8.30 AM costing 15,000 CLP¹ each. The bus departs from the main terminal and it takes about 2 hours 30 minutes to reach the Chilean customs control point at the border. On the way here, the bus goes up meandering roads to climb up the Andes mountain. It starts with rocky mountains but then we start to see some snow and by the time we get to the top, the landscape is completely white covered in snow. There was a queue of vehicles at the customs stop so it took some time to get the Chilean exit stamp. From here it was then another 20 minutes to reach the Argentinian customs control point.

Again there was a queue here so we had some time to leave the bus and take some pictures. Once it was our turn to go through customs, the group from the bus is put in a queue. The officials unload bags from the bus and inspect some at random. If you see your bag on a table, then you have to approach the customs official as they go through your bag. Otherwise, you just pick up your bag from the pile it’s left in and proceed to get your entry stamp. Once the group is back on the bus, we continue to Mendoza. Again the landscape of the Andes here is beautiful as we descend the meandering roads. It takes about 2 hours 30 minutes to get to Mendoza and we arrived at around 5 PM.

Valparaiso – Colorful Coastal City

Jean Maldonado — Mon, 01 Oct 2018 22:17:33 +0000

We began our journey to Valparaíso in Santiago and first went to Estacion Central (Central Station) to look for bus tickets to Valparaíso. We got there at 11 AM and there was a bus leaving in 15 minutes, so we quickly bought tickets (3,000 CLP¹ each) and rushed to the platform to board the bus. Once we got on, we realized it was possible to buy a ticket directly from the bus driver. It’s a fairly short bus ride and we arrived in Valparaíso bus terminal at around 1.30 PM. Our hostel was around Cerro Alegre which was a 30-minute walk. Rather than hike up the hill, we opted for an Uber² which cost 1,996 CLP and took 10 minutes.

The City and Viña del Mar

After quickly checking in and dropping off our bags, we set out to explore, starting at the lift Reina Victoria which is a funicular that takes you up to a viewpoint. The ticket costs 100 CLP each and it’s a short 1-minute ride up. From the top, you get a good panoramic view of Valparaíso. Next, we walked towards Plaza Sotomayor passing through Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion. We came across some great viewpoints on the way and also several painted murals. There were also lots of cafes and restaurants in these areas. When we got to Plaza Sotomayor, there was a pop-up arts and crafts market so we bought some souvenirs there. It was around 4 PM now so we had to choose between checking out a local beach or trying to get to Viña del Mar. We opted for the latter and asked the locals how to get to Viña del Mar from there. A kind lady walked us to the bus stop and waited for the bus we needed which simplified everything for us. The bus stop was at the corner of the main street Cochrane and the ticket cost 500 CLP each.

It was a quick 20-minute ride on the bus and we got off at the Flower Clock of Viña del Mar. There were a couple of tourists here queuing up to take pictures with the famous flower clock. From the flower clock, we then walked up a small hill and the view from up there had a great panoramic view of the seaside. We then continued walking to get to the shore and passed by Castle Wulff and the casino. Continuing further we arrived at the beach to relax for a while. We tried dipping our feet in the water and found it to be freezing. So we decided to continue walking along the beach stopping every so often. We then checked out Mall Marina just before sunset. At around 8 PM we took a bus back to Valparaíso which also cost 500 CLP. Having only snacked throughout the day, we were pretty hungry by the end of the day and found an open restaurant. We ordered a Chilean dish called La Chorillana which is a mountain of chips and meats, perfect to share between two people. Once we finished eating, we headed back to the hostel to get some rest before heading to Mendoza in Argentina the following day.

Santiago – A Modern Latin American Capital

Jean Maldonado — Sun, 30 Sep 2018 21:09:49 +0000

Coming from San Pedro de Atacama, it’s possible to do the trip by bus. However, after looking into it, the journey time was around 24 to 30 hours which is a bit too much for me. So we opted to take a flight from the nearby city of Calama. We booked the flight in advance, but we still had to get a bus transfer from San Pedro de Atacama to Calama. We tried getting a ticket on the day we arrived, but all buses were full in the agency we asked. They said another agency would open its offices the next day, so we came back then, and luckily they had seats available to leave in the morning which cost 3,000 CLP¹ each. The bus journey only takes 1-hour 30-minutes and dropped us off at the Turbus terminal. We still had a couple of hours before our 6.30 PM flight, so we headed to the Mall Plaza Calama which was a 15-minute walk away. We spent some time here before taking a taxi to the Airport. It was a 15-minute drive and cost 5,000 CLP. It’s then a 2-hour flight from Calama to Santiago. Our hotel was near Estacion Central (Central Station) and since it was quite late, we took an Uber². It took about 20 minutes and cost 12,689 CLP.

The City

Since we got there on a Saturday night, we decided to check out the city’s nightlife. The Uber driver who took us to our hotel told us the party zone was in Pio Nono street, in Barrio Bellavista. There’s a couple of bars and clubs in the area, but what’s interesting here is what I can only think to describe as outdoor canteens. It’s a large open space, some under a large tent, and there are rows of tables and chairs. You come in, sit down, and a waiter will come around to take your order of drinks. It’s also quite cheap compared to the clubs. It looks like most people come here for drinks before heading to clubs. Overall, it was a great night out and the clubs stay open until around 6 AM.

The following morning, we decided to check out the city via public transport since our hotel was close to a metro station. To use the metro, you need to purchase a Bip card which costs 1550 CLP. You then need to top up the card. An off-peak journey costs 640 CLP and since you can use 1 card between 2 people, we topped up 5400 CLP to get us through the day. On this Sunday, there happened to be a parade in the city center, so the subway wasn’t stopping there. Therefore, we had to take a bus which was stopping near there. The same Bip card works on the bus as well. We first made our way to the Plaza de Armas which is the city’s main central square that has a Cathedral and the Museo Histórico Nacional (National History Museum) as well as some colonial buildings in the area. We walked around for a bit and then headed to a viewpoint at Cerro Santa Lucia.

There’s an arts and crafts market opposite this viewpoint where you can get cheap souvenirs as well. Other than the main viewpoint in Cerro Santa Lucia, which is a hilltop castle called Castillo Hidalgo, it’s a nice place to go for a walk and also visit a couple of gardens. Once we’d finish walking around, we headed to the Mercado Central. This is a market known for bringing in fresh seafood. There are several restaurants there and it’s popular among the locals. After the market, we went to another viewpoint at Cerro San Cristobal. To get to the top, we decided to take the funicular which started from the end of Pio Nono street in Barrio Bellavista. There are several different ticket options and we went for the Funicular plus Cable Car which cost 4220 CLP each.

This viewpoint is a lot higher than the one at Cerro Santa Lucia, so you get a much better view of the city. Once at the top, you can walk up a little further to the statue of the Virgin Mary. From here, you can see the snow-topped Andes Mountain Range in the distance, or maybe I didn’t notice it earlier. It’s a great site unlike any other I had seen before. From the top, we then took the cable cars which takes you around the park. The park is huge and looks like it would have been fun to explore, but since we didn’t have much time, the cable car was a good way to get a good view of the park. The park was closing at around 7 PM, so we had to get off at a different park exit. From here we made our way to a metro station and headed back to the hotel. Overall, Santiago is a beautiful city and I wish I had another day to spend there, but we were scheduled to go to Valparaiso the next day.

San Pedro de Atacama – Laguna Cejar

Jean Maldonado — Fri, 28 Sep 2018 22:04:32 +0000

We booked this afternoon tour for 12,000 CLP¹ which included transportation, guide, and an evening snack. The meet-up point was at the tour agency’s office at 4.30 PM. It’s then a quick 30-minute drive to Laguna Cejar. At the entrance, you pay the 15,000 CLP for access to the lake. We follow the guide to the lake’s viewpoint and he gives some information on how its high salt levels allow you to float almost flat. He also says that the lake is protected now so access is prohibited to it. However, we can bathe in the adjacent Laguna Piedra which has the same effect. The entrance fee for this lake is 1000 CLP per person. There are changing rooms and shower facilities there. You have to take a shower before entering the lake especially if you’ve put on repellent or sun lotion since these are harmful to the lake. We’re given about 45 minutes to bathe in the lake and get changed before continuing on the tour.

We continue another 20 minutes to Laguna Tebinquiche. On the way to the lake, we pass ‘Ojos del Salar‘ (Eyes of the Salt Flat). These are two watering holes and the guide says that you can jump into one of them. I took the plunge and the water was really cold. Next, we continue to the lake to catch the sunset. The guide gives some info on the lake and then says we can walk throughout the trail to take some pictures. When we get back, the guide has laid out some snacks and drinks on a foldaway table. He then hands out some cups and pours us some wine to drink whilst watching the sunset. It was a great way to end the tour before heading back to San Pedro de Atacama.

San Pedro de Atacama – Geysers El Tatio

Jean Maldonado — Fri, 28 Sep 2018 14:06:13 +0000

We got an early morning tour that cost 17,000 CLP¹ which included hotel pick up, transportation, a guide, and breakfast. The tour bus picked us up from our hotel at around 6 AM. From San Pedro de Atacama, it takes about an hour and a half to reach El Tatio. It’s a steep increase in altitude from 2400 meters to over 4300 meters above sea level. We arrive at around 7.30 AM and the sun has only just finished coming up behind the surrounding mountains. At the entrance, we pay the 10,000 CLP which includes access to the thermal bath. At this altitude and in these early hours, outside temperatures are around -8 degrees Celsius. So make sure to take very warm clothing and footwear. Some people came wrapped in blankets since it was so cold. It’s also quite tiring to walk around so don’t rush through the fields to avoid getting altitude sickness.

The guide gathers the group around and gives some information on the geysers. He mentions the temperatures of the geysers are around 89 degrees Celsius. As you get close to some of the geysers, you can feel the heat on the floor. You can warm your hands up by just touching the ground. The guide takes you around for a bit at the start, and then he gives you some time to explore on your own. There are geysers of all sizes throwing hot gasses into the air and some even spewing boiling water. Overall, we had about an hour to go throughout the site before meeting back at the tour bus in the parking lot. A lot of people came back earlier though since it was so cold.

Once everyone was back on the bus, it was a quick 5-minute drive to the site’s thermal bath. At the parking lot, the guide pulled out a foldaway table to have breakfast. He gave out sandwiches and laid out some thermos containers with hot coffee and hot water to make tea. Once we were done with breakfast, we were given about half an hour to bathe in the hot thermal bath so make sure you take swimwear and a towel if you plan to get in. There are changing rooms and shower facilities at the site. We had our swimming gear, but it was still extremely cold so we decided not to get in. Instead, we found a trail that goes around the area which takes you to see some more geysers. We were done and back on the bus to head back at 9.30 AM. On the way back, the landscape in the daylight is beautiful. We make a quick stop for pictures and the guide talks about the flora and fauna in the area. As we continue, we make a final stop at the small village of Machuca. There’s a stall selling drinks and snacks but the interesting thing here is a street vendor selling grilled llama skewers. Most people feel weird about trying it, but I tried some and it was an interesting taste. We then head back to San Pedro de Atacama arriving at around 11.30 AM.

San Pedro de Atacama – Piedras Rojas

Jean Maldonado — Thu, 27 Sep 2018 21:25:00 +0000

We were coming from Uyuni an just missed the last bus so we bought a ticket for the first bus the next day departing at 5.30 AM for 150 BOB³ each. It takes about 4 hours to reach Ollague which is the border control point into Chile. Everyone has to get off the bus for the Chilean officials to inspect the bus thoroughly. We then unload our bags and the customs officers go through your bags and ask the usual questions. This was one of the strictest land borders I’ve crossed and it took about an hour and a half to get through. The officers are friendly, they just inspect everything and everyone meticulously. From Ollague, the next stop is Calama where some people get off before the bus continues to San Pedro de Atacama. We arrived in San Pedro around 4 PM. The bus drops you off at the main terminal which is a 10-15 minute walk to the town center.

Finding Tours and the Town

San Pedro is very small and you’ll probably just spend most of your time around the town center since the rest seems residential. You can walk the length of the main street Caracoles in about 5 minutes. Nearly all the tour agencies can be found on or off this road. We asked in a couple of places and the pattern seemed to be the bigger your group/more tours you buy, the cheaper the total cost. We ended up getting 3 tours – Piedras Rojas (30,000 CLP), Geysers El Tatio (17,000 CLP), and Laguna Cejar (12,000 CLP) totaling 59,000 CLP each (group of 2). Once that was sorted, we went to grab some food in town before heading back to our hostel to get some rest.

Piedras Rojas Tour

The tour bus picks us up from our hotel at 8 AM and we head to Laguna Chaxa. On the way, we make a quick stop at the highway village of Toconao. We get to Laguna Chaxa at around 10 AM and the entrance ticket costs 2500 CLP. This lake is at the start of the Atacama Salt Flats which the guide gives us some info on and tells us to look out for flamingos. We then have about 20 minutes to walk around the site and we managed to spot a lone flamingo in the middle of the lake. The lake is quite large so a camera with a telephoto lens would be best for close up pictures. This lake also has a mirror effect, similar to the lakes we saw in the Uyuni Salt Flats. Once we’re finished walking around, we head back to the entrance where there is a rest area with tables and chairs. The guide lays out some bread and spreads for us to have breakfast. He also takes out some thermos containers with coffee and hot water to make tea. Once everyone is done with breakfast, we get back on the tour bus and head for the next stop – Lagunas Miscanti y Miñiques. We arrive at Laguna Miscanti first at around 12.45 PM and the entrance ticket for the pair is 3,000 CLP. At this site, there’s a restroom and a viewpoint of the lake. The guide then tells us it’s a 25-30 minute walk to Laguna Miñiques or we can hop back on the tour bus which is going to wait for us there. We opted for the walk and arrived at an elevated viewpoint of the lake. Once everyone arrives, we get back on the tour bus and continue to Piedras Rojas.

We get to Piedras Rojas at around 2 PM and the tour bus pulls over on the side of the highway for us to get some pictures. This first viewpoint is for a panoramic of Piedras Rojas from a distance. We then hope back on and drive past Piedras Rojas on our way to Laguna Tuyajto. The guide tells us we’ll be stopping here on the way back as well. It’s a short drive to the next lake and we arrive at around 2.30 PM. The viewpoint is a little far from the lake and the guide says we can walk down the highway to get a closer view. We spend about 15 minutes here before the tour bus does a U-turn to head back since any further along this road and we’d be in Argentina. On the way back we stop by Piedras Rojas as promised for a closer view. It’s a quick 5-10 minute stop here for pictures before getting back on the tour bus and heading for lunch. Our lunch spot is at a tourist restaurant in Socaire which is about 1-hour 40-minutes away. Following lunch, it’s another hour to get back to San Pedro de Atacama where everyone is dropped off on the main street.