Guatemala – Maldo Travels

Acatenango Hike – A Rewarding Experience

Jean Maldonado — Wed, 23 May 2018 18:10:19 +0000

Located about a one hour drive from Antigua, Volcan Acatenango is a picture perfect stratovolcano standing at almost 4000 meters above sea level. It is joined with Volcan Fuego, which at the time was actively erupting allowing for great night time pictures (provided you have a good camera). It is possible to hike up both of these volcanos and tour agencies have different packages available. Our group opted for a 2-day Acatenango hike to be able to see the volcano in the early morning when skies are normally clear. The package cost 89 USD¹ and was all inclusive with meals (2 breakfast, 1 lunch, 1 dinner), gear (backpack, fleece, coat, gloves, hat), 5 liters of water, transportation, tents, sleeping bag, sleeping mat, and 2 professional guides. There was an option to hike to Volcan Fuego on the second day in the early morning for an extra 20 USD and the decision could be made at the end of the first hike. No one in our group ended up having the energy to do this since the Acatenango hike is extremely exhausting. There is also a 1-day hike leaving early morning and coming back down the same day.

Day 1

The agency does mention this is a difficult hike but they do downplay just how intense it is. On the first day, you will be carrying around 12-15 kg uphill from approximately 2200 meters to 3600 meters above sea level. The terrain is dirt and gravel, so on the steep slopes, you will take a step up and slide half a step down. It took us approximately 6 hours to reach the campsite. The guide sets the pace and breaks the hike up into 30-45 minutes each with a 20-30 minute rest. The second guide comes last to make sure no one gets left behind. The bus waits at the drop-off point for an hour in case someone decides to back out. In this case, the guide calls the driver to let him know someone is coming down, however, once the driver leaves, the only way is up. The weather also varies; it is cold in the early morning but then it starts to get hot very quickly. Halfway through our hike, it started to rain so our guide decided to take a break and let the rain pass. Water is also very important since you will be losing a lot of it through sweat. In the first two rest stops, there are small shops to buy snacks like chocolate and nuts.

When we got to the campsite, we could hear the rumbling of Volcan Fuego but we couldn’t see it because of the clouds. But these soon cleared for a brief moment and we could see Volcan Fuego erupting. It was a true spectacle and the eruptions occurred much more frequently than I expected – one ever 30 minutes or so. After helping the guides set up the tents, we took refuge in them to warm up since it was freezing outside. Meanwhile, the guides cooked dinner and then brought it over to our tents. We were told to be up at 4 AM to begin the hike up to the summit to get there by sunrise. However, getting a good nights sleep was difficult with the constant roaring of Volcan Fuego and the hard floor surface. At one point, the guides woke us up to see a massive eruption with lava flowing down Volcan Fuego’s side. which was a breathtaking sight.

Day 2

The early morning at base camp is pitch black and freezing cold so getting ready for the hike can be a bit of a challenge. Layers are very important to fight the cold; and once fully kitted out with our flashlights on, we begin the last leg of our journey to the top of Acatenango. This final hike is easier than day 1 since there are no backpacks. However, as it is all gravel it’s still tiring as it takes more effort to walk up since your feet sink in and slide back. It takes about 1-hour 30-minutes to 2-hours to complete this final stretch. Approaching the summit, the day gradually gets lighter as the sun begins to rise. Once at the top, the feeling is exhilarating. This was probably the most physically demanding feat I have ever accomplished and the reward is astounding. Not only witnessing the volcano erupting in front of me, but also the unobstructed view of the landscape of Antigua and other volcanos in the distance. We stayed there for about an hour before coming back down to base camp. Once there, the guides prepared breakfast and then we packed up before beginning the journey back down to meet the bus. Many people say the hike down is tougher because you use your knees to slow down. So I found it better to run down the mountain which is easier on the knees but is a lot more tiring.

Lake Atitlan – Region of the Modern Mayas

Jean Maldonado — Mon, 21 May 2018 20:59:24 +0000

The eastern shore of Lake Atitlan is approximately a 3-hour journey on the winding, and at times, bumpy roads from Antigua. Once you arrive on the road that perimeters the great lake, you’ll witness dazzling views of the water and mountains that surround it. There are several viewpoints to make a quick stop to take some pictures and pick up some souvenirs if you’re in a hurry. If not, then it’s best to visit the nearby town of Chichicastenango. This town hosts the largest handicrafts market in Central America taking over the city’s town center on Thursdays and Friday. There are a vast number of textiles and Mayan souvenirs and you could grab a bargain through some negotiation. Be warned though, the sellers are very persistent and will sometimes follow you to try and get you to buy something. There is also a one of a kind church with Mayan influence in the middle of the market which is a nice break from exploring the market.

Modern Mayans

There are many towns around Lake Atitlan with various different lodging options from large hotels in tourist towns like Panajachel to homestays in the smaller towns like San Jorge La Laguna. I’d recommend doing a homestay if you’d really like an authentic experience of the Mayan culture. A Mayan family will welcome you into their home and cook a home meal and the family I stayed with even let me help out in making the tortillas. Communication may be a little difficult since they all speak Spanish and a Mayan language. Normally at least one family member speaks some English but it is also an opportunity to learn a couple of words in one of the Mayan languages. The family I stayed with spoke Kaqchikel and it was a very interesting experience to learn about their culture, traditions, and the work they did.

Santiago Atitlan

To visit the key towns around the lake, the quickest and most convenient way is to take a boat tour. Prices vary based on the number of towns you visit and it’ll be cheaper if you’re with a group; for a group of 12 people, it cost us 120 GTQ² each. Do make sure you clarify the towns you’d like to visit with the boat’s captain since the sales rep may have agreed on a certain route with you, but the boat captain may normally do another route. The boat departed from Panajachel and the first stop was the small town of Santiago Atitlan. To get a sense of the size of Lake Atitlan, it took about a 45-minute ride on the speedboat to get there; a distance of about 15 km. The town is still developing and has small roads with moto-taxis available to take you around. It’s a short relaxing walk through the town to Parque Central; a large rectangular plaza with a beautiful white church at one end and school buildings on the other three sides. The town also has a couple of restaurants and handicraft shops to check out before heading back to the pier.

San Juan La Laguna

Once back at the boat, it was approximately a 30-minute boat to the next town of San Juan La Laguna. Like Santiago Atitlan, this town also had several restaurants and handicraft shops. Some handicraft shops also offer a tour where they explain the process of making the colored textile threads using different plants and materials. They also let you have a go at the spinning of the wool to make a thread which is a lot harder than they make it look. Finally, they demonstrate the weaving of a hammock or another product. Some of these tours are paid, but there are a few which are free; mainly the ones run by a cooperative of women. After this session, we headed back to the boat for our final destination.

San Pedro La Laguna

Another 15-minute speedboat ride and we arrive at San Pedro La Laguna. This is a bigger town with more restaurants, bars, and shops. What was interesting about this town was the Jewish influence. Our guide told us that a Jewish community had relocated here hence the noticeable number of Jewish restaurants and shops. There was a small market at the plaza where you could buy fruit and veg. An interesting and tasty dessert I found was fruit dipped in chocolate such as a banana that had been frozen like ice cream. A great view of the town and lake turns out to be a church – Primera Iglesia Bautista. You can access the roof of this church for free and take some great pictures.

Antigua- Volcano Views in Colonial City

Jean Maldonado — Sat, 19 May 2018 15:37:19 +0000

It is a long 6-7 hour journey from Rio Dulce but with very scenic mountain views before reaching Guatemala City which took about an hour to cross because of the traffic. Upon entering the city of Antigua, you’ll notice all the roads are cobbled and the colonial building designs remain from the Spanish occupation of the city. The city has a lively plaza with many shops and restaurants. A block or two from the plaza, you can find more restaurants and bars. Another touristic attraction is the iconic Santa Catalina Arch which is 2 blocks from the plaza. There is also a great central market that sells a range of products at ridiculously cheap prices. Whilst in Rio Dulce, a fellow traveler recommended a visit to the McDonald’s stating that it was very unique. He didn’t mention what made it unique but I was intrigued and decided to check it out. I was pleasantly surprised since it was not like any other McDonald’s. This specific one has a huge beautifully decorated garden with an unobstructed view of the volcano. It may be an odd stop to visit a McDonald’s in a city but this one was definitely worth it. Finally, there is a viewpoint at Cerro de la Cruz about a 30-minute walk from the city center. This hilltop has a terrific panoramic view of the city with a volcano in the background typical of a postcard.

Rio Dulce – Rustic Cabins and Adventure

Jean Maldonado — Fri, 18 May 2018 23:25:15 +0000

Located about 4-hours 30-minutes hours south from Tikal towards the Guatemalan border with Honduras, you can find the secluded and peaceful Rio Dulce. There are numerous rustic cabins that line its shores as well as boats and yachts; many of which belong to ex-pats who have chosen this beautiful area for their retirement. The cabin our group stayed in was Tortugal which is the perfect place to unwind after a long trip and take a break from days filled with long walking tours. You could easily spend the day on the deck by the river reading a book or catching up on some emails. The freshwater river is also great to go for a swim and cool down from the hot Guatemalan weather.

A Riverside Fort

If you’re not one who likes to take a break from activities whilst on vacation like myself, then you could go kayaking in the river. It is possible to kayak to the National Park of Castillo San Felipe which is about 30 minutes away. The current of Rio Dulce is quite strong so it can be a tiring journey depending on whether it works against or in your favor. There’s an area on the shoreline where you can secure your kayaks with some rope. The park’s guard has a clear view of the kayaks so they are perfectly safe here whilst you venture through the park. Entrance for foreign nationals is 20 GTQ¹ and your admission ticket is an A4 information sheet with the fort’s history albeit it is in Spanish only. The national park is quite large and has many well-maintained facilities which include a pool, barbecue areas, and restrooms. There were several local families having picnics and swimming in the river. If you didn’t bring any food, then there are several stalls which sell snacks and small bites to eat. The fort is located on the peninsula at the narrowest point of the river making it a strategic defensive position. At the entrance, a staff member will punch a hole in your ticket and tell you to follow the signs around the fort.

It’s easy to find your way around and you can finish the site in about an hour. Throughout the 16th and 17th century, there were warehouses in Lake Izabal storing goods that were traded with Spain. Rio Dulce is the only way in and out of Lake Izabal, so this fort was built to defend from pirate attacks who attempted to raid the warehouses. Many of these attacks were successful and the fort was even taken over and burnt down at one point. Due to its strategic position, the fort was rebuilt and fortified many times. It was also used as a prison during a period when there were no attacks. In 1955, the fort was restored and reconstructed based on historical documents and excavations done in the area. The result is a collection of rooms, towers, and dungeon from the different time periods.

A Unique Waterfall Adventure

The locals told us about a nearby waterfall which was near our cabin in Tortugal. It was not walking distance and the only available public transport is a colectivo. These are small minibusses that have been adapted to carry passengers. To get to the colectivo³, we were told to walk 20 minutes down to the highway and simply wait by the road since there are no bus stops. They said the colectivos normally come every 30 minutes and to ask the driver to drop us off at Finca El Paraiso. You can identify a colectivo because there’s a guy hanging out the door shouting out the destinations. When one arrived, there were 2 empty seats for 3 of us so we thought we’d have to wait for the next one. However, in Guatemala, there is no such thing as a full colectivo and they just squeezed me in. The locals take these colectivos and some of them bring massive baskets and bags from the market. Now you’d think this is as full as it gets, but along the way, the colectivo made stops and kept picking people up. The vehicle probably had a capacity for 15 people and I counted 26. It was so overpacked that it couldn’t make it up a slight inclined slope and the assistant had to help push it up.

Our journey to the waterfall took 40 minutes and cost us 15 GTQ. You then pay 20 GTQ for the entrance at the Finca Paraiso and then walk about 20 minutes along the trail which is easy to follow; you can’t get lost. This is a completely natural place with no facilities whatsoever so wear your swimwear underneath your clothes. Do not bring any valuables either as you’ll be leaving everything by the riverside. What makes this waterfall so unique, is that you get a scorching hot waterfall flowing down into a cold river. You can also go under the waterfall into a cave and the heat makes it into somewhat of a natural sauna. We met a local who turned out to be family of the owner and he showed us around the maze-like underwater caves. He even showed us that you could jump off from the waterfall into the river but we didn’t dare to attempt that. It was a magical and relaxing experience that was definitely worth the journey.

Tikal – Extraordinary Mayan Citadel

Jean Maldonado — Wed, 16 May 2018 18:05:09 +0000

At only two hours from San Ignacio, it is imperative that one visits the ancient Mayan ruins of Tikal. This site is more than just a couple of structures, it is a huge collection of ruins that reveal a complex planned Mayan city. The area it covers is absolutely massive. Whilst many tourists opt for a day trip, it is impossible to see everything Tikal has to offer. Getting a guide is also highly recommended since not only is it easy to get lost, but also because there is a plethora of flora, fauna, and history here. The national park is very strict about certified guides and thoroughly check their credentials. So if you go with a tour, ensure that their guide has genuine credentials or simply get a guide at the entrance to the park itself. This national park is also very well looked after and guarded so make sure you adhere to the signs. If you’re not sure whether you can touch or climb something, its best not to as you risk being escorted and banned from the park.

Among its iconic towering pyramids, Tikal is home to the tallest pyramid in Central America identified as Temple IV. There are plenty of temples and plazas to see in Tikal and some have platforms you can walk up whilst others allow you to climb the pyramid itself. You will notice that there are mounds of grass and sometimes even trees fused with a Mayan ruin on its surface. This is because approximately only 15% of this archaeological site has been excavated. Thus there is constant work being done to explore and uncover more secrets of this Mayan city.

As this site is in the middle of a rainforest, you will encounter lots of wildlife as you explore Tikal. There are mostly monkeys and you’ll see them jumping between trees and one may even run across you. The rainforest is also home to many different species of birds. You’ll mainly hear them sing and when you do, look closely into the trees to see if you can catch a glimpse of a Tucan.