Central America – Maldo Travels

Acatenango Hike – A Rewarding Experience

Jean Maldonado — Wed, 23 May 2018 18:10:19 +0000

Located about a one hour drive from Antigua, Volcan Acatenango is a picture perfect stratovolcano standing at almost 4000 meters above sea level. It is joined with Volcan Fuego, which at the time was actively erupting allowing for great night time pictures (provided you have a good camera). It is possible to hike up both of these volcanos and tour agencies have different packages available. Our group opted for a 2-day Acatenango hike to be able to see the volcano in the early morning when skies are normally clear. The package cost 89 USD¹ and was all inclusive with meals (2 breakfast, 1 lunch, 1 dinner), gear (backpack, fleece, coat, gloves, hat), 5 liters of water, transportation, tents, sleeping bag, sleeping mat, and 2 professional guides. There was an option to hike to Volcan Fuego on the second day in the early morning for an extra 20 USD and the decision could be made at the end of the first hike. No one in our group ended up having the energy to do this since the Acatenango hike is extremely exhausting. There is also a 1-day hike leaving early morning and coming back down the same day.

Day 1

The agency does mention this is a difficult hike but they do downplay just how intense it is. On the first day, you will be carrying around 12-15 kg uphill from approximately 2200 meters to 3600 meters above sea level. The terrain is dirt and gravel, so on the steep slopes, you will take a step up and slide half a step down. It took us approximately 6 hours to reach the campsite. The guide sets the pace and breaks the hike up into 30-45 minutes each with a 20-30 minute rest. The second guide comes last to make sure no one gets left behind. The bus waits at the drop-off point for an hour in case someone decides to back out. In this case, the guide calls the driver to let him know someone is coming down, however, once the driver leaves, the only way is up. The weather also varies; it is cold in the early morning but then it starts to get hot very quickly. Halfway through our hike, it started to rain so our guide decided to take a break and let the rain pass. Water is also very important since you will be losing a lot of it through sweat. In the first two rest stops, there are small shops to buy snacks like chocolate and nuts.

When we got to the campsite, we could hear the rumbling of Volcan Fuego but we couldn’t see it because of the clouds. But these soon cleared for a brief moment and we could see Volcan Fuego erupting. It was a true spectacle and the eruptions occurred much more frequently than I expected – one ever 30 minutes or so. After helping the guides set up the tents, we took refuge in them to warm up since it was freezing outside. Meanwhile, the guides cooked dinner and then brought it over to our tents. We were told to be up at 4 AM to begin the hike up to the summit to get there by sunrise. However, getting a good nights sleep was difficult with the constant roaring of Volcan Fuego and the hard floor surface. At one point, the guides woke us up to see a massive eruption with lava flowing down Volcan Fuego’s side. which was a breathtaking sight.

Day 2

The early morning at base camp is pitch black and freezing cold so getting ready for the hike can be a bit of a challenge. Layers are very important to fight the cold; and once fully kitted out with our flashlights on, we begin the last leg of our journey to the top of Acatenango. This final hike is easier than day 1 since there are no backpacks. However, as it is all gravel it’s still tiring as it takes more effort to walk up since your feet sink in and slide back. It takes about 1-hour 30-minutes to 2-hours to complete this final stretch. Approaching the summit, the day gradually gets lighter as the sun begins to rise. Once at the top, the feeling is exhilarating. This was probably the most physically demanding feat I have ever accomplished and the reward is astounding. Not only witnessing the volcano erupting in front of me, but also the unobstructed view of the landscape of Antigua and other volcanos in the distance. We stayed there for about an hour before coming back down to base camp. Once there, the guides prepared breakfast and then we packed up before beginning the journey back down to meet the bus. Many people say the hike down is tougher because you use your knees to slow down. So I found it better to run down the mountain which is easier on the knees but is a lot more tiring.

Lake Atitlan – Region of the Modern Mayas

Jean Maldonado — Mon, 21 May 2018 20:59:24 +0000

The eastern shore of Lake Atitlan is approximately a 3-hour journey on the winding, and at times, bumpy roads from Antigua. Once you arrive on the road that perimeters the great lake, you’ll witness dazzling views of the water and mountains that surround it. There are several viewpoints to make a quick stop to take some pictures and pick up some souvenirs if you’re in a hurry. If not, then it’s best to visit the nearby town of Chichicastenango. This town hosts the largest handicrafts market in Central America taking over the city’s town center on Thursdays and Friday. There are a vast number of textiles and Mayan souvenirs and you could grab a bargain through some negotiation. Be warned though, the sellers are very persistent and will sometimes follow you to try and get you to buy something. There is also a one of a kind church with Mayan influence in the middle of the market which is a nice break from exploring the market.

Modern Mayans

There are many towns around Lake Atitlan with various different lodging options from large hotels in tourist towns like Panajachel to homestays in the smaller towns like San Jorge La Laguna. I’d recommend doing a homestay if you’d really like an authentic experience of the Mayan culture. A Mayan family will welcome you into their home and cook a home meal and the family I stayed with even let me help out in making the tortillas. Communication may be a little difficult since they all speak Spanish and a Mayan language. Normally at least one family member speaks some English but it is also an opportunity to learn a couple of words in one of the Mayan languages. The family I stayed with spoke Kaqchikel and it was a very interesting experience to learn about their culture, traditions, and the work they did.

Santiago Atitlan

To visit the key towns around the lake, the quickest and most convenient way is to take a boat tour. Prices vary based on the number of towns you visit and it’ll be cheaper if you’re with a group; for a group of 12 people, it cost us 120 GTQ² each. Do make sure you clarify the towns you’d like to visit with the boat’s captain since the sales rep may have agreed on a certain route with you, but the boat captain may normally do another route. The boat departed from Panajachel and the first stop was the small town of Santiago Atitlan. To get a sense of the size of Lake Atitlan, it took about a 45-minute ride on the speedboat to get there; a distance of about 15 km. The town is still developing and has small roads with moto-taxis available to take you around. It’s a short relaxing walk through the town to Parque Central; a large rectangular plaza with a beautiful white church at one end and school buildings on the other three sides. The town also has a couple of restaurants and handicraft shops to check out before heading back to the pier.

San Juan La Laguna

Once back at the boat, it was approximately a 30-minute boat to the next town of San Juan La Laguna. Like Santiago Atitlan, this town also had several restaurants and handicraft shops. Some handicraft shops also offer a tour where they explain the process of making the colored textile threads using different plants and materials. They also let you have a go at the spinning of the wool to make a thread which is a lot harder than they make it look. Finally, they demonstrate the weaving of a hammock or another product. Some of these tours are paid, but there are a few which are free; mainly the ones run by a cooperative of women. After this session, we headed back to the boat for our final destination.

San Pedro La Laguna

Another 15-minute speedboat ride and we arrive at San Pedro La Laguna. This is a bigger town with more restaurants, bars, and shops. What was interesting about this town was the Jewish influence. Our guide told us that a Jewish community had relocated here hence the noticeable number of Jewish restaurants and shops. There was a small market at the plaza where you could buy fruit and veg. An interesting and tasty dessert I found was fruit dipped in chocolate such as a banana that had been frozen like ice cream. A great view of the town and lake turns out to be a church – Primera Iglesia Bautista. You can access the roof of this church for free and take some great pictures.

Antigua- Volcano Views in Colonial City

Jean Maldonado — Sat, 19 May 2018 15:37:19 +0000

It is a long 6-7 hour journey from Rio Dulce but with very scenic mountain views before reaching Guatemala City which took about an hour to cross because of the traffic. Upon entering the city of Antigua, you’ll notice all the roads are cobbled and the colonial building designs remain from the Spanish occupation of the city. The city has a lively plaza with many shops and restaurants. A block or two from the plaza, you can find more restaurants and bars. Another touristic attraction is the iconic Santa Catalina Arch which is 2 blocks from the plaza. There is also a great central market that sells a range of products at ridiculously cheap prices. Whilst in Rio Dulce, a fellow traveler recommended a visit to the McDonald’s stating that it was very unique. He didn’t mention what made it unique but I was intrigued and decided to check it out. I was pleasantly surprised since it was not like any other McDonald’s. This specific one has a huge beautifully decorated garden with an unobstructed view of the volcano. It may be an odd stop to visit a McDonald’s in a city but this one was definitely worth it. Finally, there is a viewpoint at Cerro de la Cruz about a 30-minute walk from the city center. This hilltop has a terrific panoramic view of the city with a volcano in the background typical of a postcard.

Rio Dulce – Rustic Cabins and Adventure

Jean Maldonado — Fri, 18 May 2018 23:25:15 +0000

Located about 4-hours 30-minutes hours south from Tikal towards the Guatemalan border with Honduras, you can find the secluded and peaceful Rio Dulce. There are numerous rustic cabins that line its shores as well as boats and yachts; many of which belong to ex-pats who have chosen this beautiful area for their retirement. The cabin our group stayed in was Tortugal which is the perfect place to unwind after a long trip and take a break from days filled with long walking tours. You could easily spend the day on the deck by the river reading a book or catching up on some emails. The freshwater river is also great to go for a swim and cool down from the hot Guatemalan weather.

A Riverside Fort

If you’re not one who likes to take a break from activities whilst on vacation like myself, then you could go kayaking in the river. It is possible to kayak to the National Park of Castillo San Felipe which is about 30 minutes away. The current of Rio Dulce is quite strong so it can be a tiring journey depending on whether it works against or in your favor. There’s an area on the shoreline where you can secure your kayaks with some rope. The park’s guard has a clear view of the kayaks so they are perfectly safe here whilst you venture through the park. Entrance for foreign nationals is 20 GTQ¹ and your admission ticket is an A4 information sheet with the fort’s history albeit it is in Spanish only. The national park is quite large and has many well-maintained facilities which include a pool, barbecue areas, and restrooms. There were several local families having picnics and swimming in the river. If you didn’t bring any food, then there are several stalls which sell snacks and small bites to eat. The fort is located on the peninsula at the narrowest point of the river making it a strategic defensive position. At the entrance, a staff member will punch a hole in your ticket and tell you to follow the signs around the fort.

It’s easy to find your way around and you can finish the site in about an hour. Throughout the 16th and 17th century, there were warehouses in Lake Izabal storing goods that were traded with Spain. Rio Dulce is the only way in and out of Lake Izabal, so this fort was built to defend from pirate attacks who attempted to raid the warehouses. Many of these attacks were successful and the fort was even taken over and burnt down at one point. Due to its strategic position, the fort was rebuilt and fortified many times. It was also used as a prison during a period when there were no attacks. In 1955, the fort was restored and reconstructed based on historical documents and excavations done in the area. The result is a collection of rooms, towers, and dungeon from the different time periods.

A Unique Waterfall Adventure

The locals told us about a nearby waterfall which was near our cabin in Tortugal. It was not walking distance and the only available public transport is a colectivo. These are small minibusses that have been adapted to carry passengers. To get to the colectivo³, we were told to walk 20 minutes down to the highway and simply wait by the road since there are no bus stops. They said the colectivos normally come every 30 minutes and to ask the driver to drop us off at Finca El Paraiso. You can identify a colectivo because there’s a guy hanging out the door shouting out the destinations. When one arrived, there were 2 empty seats for 3 of us so we thought we’d have to wait for the next one. However, in Guatemala, there is no such thing as a full colectivo and they just squeezed me in. The locals take these colectivos and some of them bring massive baskets and bags from the market. Now you’d think this is as full as it gets, but along the way, the colectivo made stops and kept picking people up. The vehicle probably had a capacity for 15 people and I counted 26. It was so overpacked that it couldn’t make it up a slight inclined slope and the assistant had to help push it up.

Our journey to the waterfall took 40 minutes and cost us 15 GTQ. You then pay 20 GTQ for the entrance at the Finca Paraiso and then walk about 20 minutes along the trail which is easy to follow; you can’t get lost. This is a completely natural place with no facilities whatsoever so wear your swimwear underneath your clothes. Do not bring any valuables either as you’ll be leaving everything by the riverside. What makes this waterfall so unique, is that you get a scorching hot waterfall flowing down into a cold river. You can also go under the waterfall into a cave and the heat makes it into somewhat of a natural sauna. We met a local who turned out to be family of the owner and he showed us around the maze-like underwater caves. He even showed us that you could jump off from the waterfall into the river but we didn’t dare to attempt that. It was a magical and relaxing experience that was definitely worth the journey.

Tikal – Extraordinary Mayan Citadel

Jean Maldonado — Wed, 16 May 2018 18:05:09 +0000

At only two hours from San Ignacio, it is imperative that one visits the ancient Mayan ruins of Tikal. This site is more than just a couple of structures, it is a huge collection of ruins that reveal a complex planned Mayan city. The area it covers is absolutely massive. Whilst many tourists opt for a day trip, it is impossible to see everything Tikal has to offer. Getting a guide is also highly recommended since not only is it easy to get lost, but also because there is a plethora of flora, fauna, and history here. The national park is very strict about certified guides and thoroughly check their credentials. So if you go with a tour, ensure that their guide has genuine credentials or simply get a guide at the entrance to the park itself. This national park is also very well looked after and guarded so make sure you adhere to the signs. If you’re not sure whether you can touch or climb something, its best not to as you risk being escorted and banned from the park.

Among its iconic towering pyramids, Tikal is home to the tallest pyramid in Central America identified as Temple IV. There are plenty of temples and plazas to see in Tikal and some have platforms you can walk up whilst others allow you to climb the pyramid itself. You will notice that there are mounds of grass and sometimes even trees fused with a Mayan ruin on its surface. This is because approximately only 15% of this archaeological site has been excavated. Thus there is constant work being done to explore and uncover more secrets of this Mayan city.

As this site is in the middle of a rainforest, you will encounter lots of wildlife as you explore Tikal. There are mostly monkeys and you’ll see them jumping between trees and one may even run across you. The rainforest is also home to many different species of birds. You’ll mainly hear them sing and when you do, look closely into the trees to see if you can catch a glimpse of a Tucan.

San Ignacio – Mayan Cave and Ruins

Jean Maldonado — Tue, 15 May 2018 21:04:57 +0000

A two-hour bus ride away from Belize City takes you towards the Guatemala-Belize border at San Ignacio. The terminal is quite basic as are the buses so do not expect air con or other amenities. The town of San Ignacio is small but offers several stores, restaurants, and bars. It is perfectly located due to its proximity to both Mayan ruins and adrenaline filled experiences.

Ancient Mayan Cave

The most advertised tour is the Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) Cave, which although a little pricey at 85 USD⁴, is definitely worth checking out. This Mayan cave is believed to have been used for burial rituals and sacrifices. It is mainly unexcavated so all artifacts are in their original positions and mostly embedded in the ground. Unfortunately, cameras are not allowed in the cave thanks to a tourist who dropped their camera on a skull. The authorities stress this and take this very seriously so you should refrain from being tempted to sneak one in. Some tour operators (Maya Walk Tours in my case) will email you a couple of pictures after the tour which are the ones I’ve used for this post. The tour operators also ask visitors not to use or to dial down the use of sunblock or repellent to help preserve the site, however, this is really up to you. The ATM Cave tour is no easy task. The tour operator will sugarcoat its difficulty to get you on board but you should be prepared to endure a physically demanding adventure. Also expect to get wet as well as knocks, bruises, and maybe even small cuts from sharp rocks. The tour operators will provide equipment which includes a helmet, headlamp, and water shoes if you don’t have your own.

The tour bus takes about 1 hour to arrive at the national park entrance and the guide will point out what are believed to be unexcavated Mayan ruins along the route. From the park entrance to the cave, it is a 45-60 minute trek where you will cross 3 streams/rivers. The water level is usually hip height but will of course vary depending on the season. Once you arrive at the cave entrance, all food and drink must be left behind on the benches along with any loose personal belongings. The guide will also hand out snacks at this point before heading into the cave. The river flows through the entrance of the cave and you may need to swim a couple of meters depending on how tall you are. Once inside, the guide will take you through the cave pointing out artifacts and explaining the rock formations. You will need to crouch, climb, squeeze through openings, and traverse through water which can reach hip high levels. The last section of the cave can only be explored without shoes but they let you keep your socks on if you don’t mind getting them muddy. This final section is where the majority of the artifacts lie mostly untouched. There are pottery, tools, and skeletons everywhere and although areas are cordoned off, you have to watch your step and be careful not touch or lean on any rocks your guide points out. It is a truly spectacular site with so much history and mystery. Once back at the park entrance, lunch will be served while you use the facilities to change into dry clothes and hang your wet ones to dry.

Mayan Ruins a Walk Away

The Mayan ruins of Cahal Pech are a short 25-minute walk from San Ignacio town center. They are believed to have been the residence of an elite ruling Mayan family and is small enough to cover in less than 2 hours. Entrance is 10 BZD⁵ which includes access to the visitor center and small museum. The complex is made up of several plazas, residential buildings, temples, and a pyramid. It’s a great stop if you don’t have time for the large Mayan ruins in the area.

Caye Caulker – An Island Paradise

Jean Maldonado — Sun, 13 May 2018 14:41:30 +0000

To get to the serene island of Caye Caulker, you have to take a 1-hour 15-minute boat ride from the port of Belize City. Boats leave every hour, and if you just missed the boat, you can grab a drink and some food at the port while you wait for the next one. Caye Caulker is made up of two islands, however, only the south island is populated. The south island is very small, you can walk its length in about 20 minutes and its width in about 5 minutes. So no matter where you decide to stay, you will be walking distance to any destination. The activity not to be missed at Caye Caulker is snorkeling. There are several operators and my group went with Ragamuffin Tours which cost 70 USD¹ each. With a name like that, you know you’re going to have a good time. The tour was an all-day tour with 4 stops for snorkeling and a drop off at the private beach of Koko King. A basic lunch was also included and of course, an unlimited supply of rum punch.

The boat stops for 30-60 minute snorkeling sessions on the way to and at Hol Chan Marine Reserve. Snorkeling gear is provided and the group is split up and assigned to a knowledgeable guide who points out the marine life. There is a lot of wildlife that will be swimming around. We got to see a stingray, turtle, eel, sharks, and a wide range of fish species. There are also seals at certain time of the year, however, we didn’t manage to see one. The corals are beautiful and there was also a cave that you could dive under and come out the other side. The guide is a strong swimmer and is always there to help you out. The tour finishes at Koko King which is a private beach with a bar/restaurant, trampoline, inflatable pyramid, swings, kayaks, and buoys to float around which are all free to use. There are also areas with beach chairs and hammocks which you can rent out for 20 BZD² which is fairly economical when split between a group.

Tulum – Scenic Beaches and Cenotes

Jean Maldonado — Thu, 10 May 2018 20:30:03 +0000

A 1-hour bus journey from Playa del Carmen takes you to the tranquil city of Tulum. Although the city is fairly small, all its tourist sites are well spread out and definitely not walking distances between each other. There is public transport available consists of combis/colectivos⁶. Another option is a car rental which would be of maximum convenience and comfort. Alternatively, there are bike rentals which at 100 MXN⁷ for a day turns out pretty cheap. The main beach at Playa Paraiso is a 15-20 minute bike ride from the downtown area depending on where you stay. Once at the beach, the views are cinematic with several beach chair rentals and bars/restaurants serving food and ice cold drinks.

Mayan Seaport Ruins

Tulum’s Mayan ruins are a 5-minute bike ride from the beach. There is ample parking space and you can lock up the bikes on the trees. Entrance costs 70 MXN without a guide and does not include the optional train ride to the ruins’ entrance which is a 15-minute walk away. These ancient Mayan ruins are one of the best conserved in the country and it also offers a stunning beach. The complex is quite small and can be completed in about 2 hours but there are several practically intact structures and walls. The Mayan city of Tulum is believed to have been used as a fortress and a port to trade with its neighboring civilizations. It is also rich in wildlife and you will be able to see iguanas up close and personal. The ruins are a very popular destination so plan to get there early to avoid the crowds especially at the beach. The weather is also very hot so take plenty of water and sunblock.

Gran Cenote

Cenote options are abundant in Tulum but one of the best has to be Gran Cenote and is located at just a 15-minute bike ride from downtown on Av. Coba. Entrance is 180 MXN for the ample site which offers great shower and changing room facilities. There are also several hammocks and seating areas to lounge around to relax or do some reading. They also rent out lockers (30 MXN) and snorkel gear (80 MXN) to take a dip in the cenote, however, both of these are optional. The water temperature is refreshing to cool off from the heat in Tulum. Once in the water, you can see fishes swimming around and if you look carefully, you may spot a turtle.

Cenote Cristal and Cenote Escondido

These two cenotes are adjacent to each other and are a 15-minute bike ride from downtown on Chetumal Street. The combined entrance for both cenotes has to be purchased at the entrance for Cenote Cristal and costs 120 MXN. There are no showers or changing rooms at either of the cenotes but there are a couple of benches and tables. Cenote Cristal has a platform where you can jump from into the water which is great fun. The only downside to this cenote is that there are a lot of mosquitos so make sure to take repellent with you. Cenote Escondido, in my opinion, was the better of the two. There are fewer mosquitos here and its shape is long but narrow like a swimming pool which makes for a great swim.

Playa del Carmen – Lively Beach Town

Jean Maldonado — Tue, 08 May 2018 20:34:45 +0000

A quick one and a half hour bus ride away from Cancun, we can find Playa del Carmen which offers spectacular beaches, fun activities, and a great nightlife. The pedestrian-only Fifth Avenue is a nice walk during the day with many shopping options and a variety of restaurants. There is also Plaza Paseo Playa del Carmen which is an outdoor shopping center with many high-end stores and a food court. The port to take the ferry to Cozumel island is around the corner from this shopping center. Other exciting activities which Playa has to offer are snorkeling, skydiving, and theme parks. At night, there are a number of bars and clubs along Fifth Avenue. My personal favorites are the rooftop or beachside bars where you can enjoy a nice cold drink whilst getting the breeze and fresh air from the ocean.

Cancun – Sun, Sea, and Resorts

Jean Maldonado — Sun, 06 May 2018 17:16:24 +0000

With a short two hour flight from Mexico City, you can reach the crystal clear turquoise waters of the Caribbean in Cancun. Upon arrival at the airport, you will be swarmed by tour operators offering to take you to your hotel. It is also possible to schedule transportation beforehand online and you simply look for the operator outside. There is no Uber⁸ in Cancun and Taxis are quite expensive compared to shared transportation. Since Cancun is a popular tourist destination, anyone working in tourism speaks at least English. The airport is about a 20-30 minute ride to the hotel zone and downtown.

Boat Tour And Snorkeling

I’m not much of a beach person so naturally, my first instinct was to look for activities. There are a range of options and the one that interested me the most was the boat tour to Isla Mujeres with a snorkeling session to see the ‘underwater museum’. The tour operator picks you up from your hotel or in my case, from a nearby hotel and drops you off at the pier. The 220 MXN⁹ Marina fee was not included in the tour price and is paid for at the pier. They hand out the snorkeling gear here as well and give you a colored wristband for when they call out groups by color. The boats are very big with capacity for about 50 people. There are benches with storage space underneath them for personal belongings and a net at the front of the boat to sit on. The boat ride is very relaxing as you feel a cool breeze whilst sipping on unlimited rum punch and taking in the amazing views of the crystalline water. It takes about 30 minutes to arrive at the snorkeling zone. There are several other boats in the area so it’s important to remember the name of the boat and stick with the guide. If you’ve never been snorkeling, then this 30-minute experience will make for a nice first time and you’ll see a couple of ruins and a car but not much sea life. There are other snorkeling destinations that are much better.

Once back on the boat, it’s a 45-minute ride to a restaurant at the southern point of Isla Mujeres. The restaurant has a private beach to relax and take in the view. After lunch, the boat takes you to Playa Norte which is the main beach at Isla Mujeres. There’s a tequila tasting session and then you have an hour to roam around. The island is long but narrow and you can cross to the west side in a 5-minute walk. The Isla Mujeres Sign is on this side and there aren’t many people here since they stay on the main beach. It’s also possible to rent quad bikes if you want to see the whole island. The beaches are beautiful but the island is quite expensive.